Did you get installation instructions when you bought the hitch?
I poked around on the drawtite website, and was eventually able to locate installation instructions.
I did have to tell it what year, make, and model of car I had, then select which hitch I had, before I could get to the install instructions.
If I remember correctly, e-trailer and U-Tube has lots of hitch install videos as well. When installing the hitch, remember to install T-Connector wiring afterwards as well. Luckily, our pre-owned 2014 CRV had its rear hitch and rear wiring already installed (by previous owner).
I suggest looking at the etrailer.com videos and instruction sheets.
I also suggest that instead of cutting out a rectangular hole in the plastic under panel, you try instead to cut three sides of the rectangle, bend the plastic out of the way during installation, and then bend it back, figuring out a way to have it not droop.
There are some comments in the reviews about that.
#11 • 34 mins ago (Edited) Edit
You will have to get on your hands and knees to see where you trimmed that sound deadening material. With regard to the facia, just make 2 parallel cuts and push/fold the plastic piece up behind the bumper facia. The Curt hitch crossbar is completely hidden.
Sorry using Tapatalk and I am not seeing your signature but that makes sense. I am not worried about seeing the crossbar I just don't want to see sloppy or unprofessional looking holes in the under panel.
To do the hitch install on 2015 V, it looks like a large hole must be cut in the underside panel. It appears the hole would only be visible by getting down on your hands/knees to look or when the vehicle is on a lift. The crossbar will be visible.
Follow the directions as to size of opening and you should be fine. Just for clarity, the opening should be a rectangle, not a hole, which would be quite obvious. Once the hitch is in place, you won't even notice, as the hitch blocks most of the view.
Just did a DrawTite on my 2016; I had ordered a Curt, but wanted the second hole that my van's DrawTite has, as it provides a place for a hitch lock (not a biggie) and does not need a strap to make a bike rack 'warranty approved' per Curt (biggie). I think the second point of contact, as well as the ability to thread a bolt and not just insert a pin, makes my 4-bike Thule rack more secure. May just be a mental thing.
That said, the fascia cut wasn't hard (use a Dremel). What was mostly impossible was clearing the threads on the muffler side. Unlike the bolt holes under the fascia, they've been in the elements for 3 years. My tap and die set just wasn't beefy enough to really work for me. I swallowed my DIY pride after enough rust fell around my eyes and went to my neighbor/mechanic's shop for air tools and a lift. Worth it.
1st time user of the forum.
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