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DL the owner's manual online for free and you will find on page 246 that one drain and fill is 3.1 qt (US) for a 2 WD crv.
Always use the atf dipstick to make sure the atf is at the proper fill level. Look in your owner's manual on how to properly check that level.

Honda DW-1 or another synthetic compatible atf such as the Valvoline product both have had excellent results. You can go wrong using the old Honda Z-1 but not with the Honda DW-1 or the Valvoline product you mentioned.
Total capacity for your AT is 6.9 qts so one change and fill will give you aprox 45% new fluid. Each drain and fill after that gives you less and less % new.
The main idea behind doing some driving in between drain and fills is to thoroughly mix up the old and new atf. You need to go through all the gears including torque converter lockup. Quite a few will drive hundreds of miles between their first changes. Your CRV probably still has the old Honda Z-1 atf.
Page 187 is the maintenance schedule which says to change (meaning a single drain and fill) the ATF at 120k miles or 6 yrs, whichever comes first, and then every 90k miles or 5 yrs, whichever comes first.
Then again, it also says to change the engine oil at 10k miles or a yr, whichever comes first.
Then again, it also says to change the oil filter at 20k miles or a yr, whichever come first.
Now that is with the Honda oil filter and non-synthetic 5w20 engine oil. Most would never let the oil filter go for 20k miles :eek: or let the regular oil go for 10k miles.
Other fluid items would be the coolant and the brake fluid.
Don't forget to check your cabin (pollen) air filter.
Buffalo4
PS: Congrats on such a low mileage CRV. :D
PPS: Check your engine oil level also, as some Dealers are not too accurate when they change the oil and filter.
Read all 38 pages of this thread and all very interesting! Buffalo4, you seem to be the most consistent and helpful replier, so thank you for your input. I am new to this forum, and residing in Australia some of the terminology is different, but still lots of useful info. I have a 2008 crv auto, base model, which down here is called a sport. Around 130,000km, and never had trans oil changed to my knowledge. Will keep the forum updated as to oil prices etc here, might be of interest to any Australian readers. One thing I find incomprehensible is the measuring of old oil. Why bother? I have never measured old oil, just dump it out and forget about it. The same with putting in new, why the great carefulness of some to put in 2.716 quarts, or litres in my case? Just a figure pulled out of my hat, but don't you trust the dipstick? This is not aimed at anyone in particular, but I feel that some are perhaps a mite overcareful. Just need to read the owners manual, buy enough oil, and pour it in.
One thing I did pick up in this forum is checking the trans oil level when the engine is off. All the old autos i've had in the past you check the trans oil level while idling - could have come unstuck there. Anyway, thanks to all the helpful posters!
 

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Just paid 1256 Norwegian Kroner for 3L (3 quarts... ish) for the ATF DW1, that translates to £120 or $158 (and I see that some 'murcans moan about the price of their atf lol!).

Question: I see advertisers in the good ol' US of A selling Honda ATF and I can buy 12 quarts for the same price I paid above for 3, even allowing for shipping and import duties. Bargain. If it's the same stuff (why shouldn't it be?). So can I order with confidence?

p.s. different part numbers, same description...
honda atf.jpg
 

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Just paid 1256 Norwegian Kroner for 3L (3 quarts... ish) for the ATF DW1, that translates to £120 or $158 (and I see that some 'murcans moan about the price of their atf lol!).

Question: I see advertisers in the good ol' US of A selling Honda ATF and I can buy 12 quarts for the same price I paid above for 3, even allowing for shipping and import duties. Bargain. If it's the same stuff (why shouldn't it be?). So can I order with confidence?

p.s. different part numbers, same description...
View attachment 100233
Here in US we have the ATF in 1 quart only.
Different part numbers representing different containers. Staff inside is the same.
 

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I seem to recall that the US version is conventional oil while Canada is 100% Synthetic (and atleast it used to be clearly stated on the bottle). This could also be true for other locations.

I will attempt to find out more.

There have been excellent reviews for Valvoline Max-Life ATF in our Honda transmissions and I will be making the switch as soon as my exisiting stock of DW-1 is depleted.
 

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DW-1 is considered a synthetic atf in the USA.

The Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf (a synthetic atf) has had good results in the USA when used instead of the Honda Z-1 and/or Honda DW-1, as ArticDriver says.

Buffalo4
PS: WOW, approx $50/qt :(
 

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DW-1 is considered a synthetic atf in the USA.

The Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf (a synthetic atf) has had good results in the USA when used instead of the Honda Z-1 and/or Honda DW-1, as ArticDriver says.

Buffalo4
PS: WOW, approx $50/qt :(
No...it is not considered a synthetic according to every thread I have read on BITOG unless the product was recently changed. There were VOAs performed and compared against Z-1 which supported the fact it was not a full synthetic. IIRC, they had nearly identical low flash points which are uncharacterisitic of full synthetic. (honda never claimed Z-1 to be synthetic).

Hopefully, you could provide some documentation to support it being 100% synthetic and possibly an explanation (albeit not as importantly) why DW-1 bottles in Canada (much darker color) say "Synthetic" on them and the lighter grey bottles in the USA do not. Why would Honda find it advantageous to not list their product as synthetic when the genersl concensus amongst consumers is a preference for synthetic?

Meanwhile, I stand by what I said as a possible reason the OP has found very different pricing in what you describe as the identical product.
 

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ArcticDriver,
You may well be correct that the USA Honda DW-1 is not recognized as a synthetic in the USA. I doubt if the USA stuff is 100% synthetic, since it does contain some petroleum distillates, but I really doubt if your statement "the US version is conventional oil" is correct either.
But, is the Canada DW-1 synthetic actually different than the US labeled DW-1?
Not sure if both are mfg'd by " Idemitsu Lubricants America".
Different Countries have different specs for labeling a lubricant synthetic or not.
Good question.
Let me know if you find out otherwise.
Thanks,
Buffalo4
 

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ArcticDriver,
You may well be correct that the USA Honda DW-1 is not recognized as a synthetic in the USA. I doubt if the USA stuff is 100% synthetic, since it does contain some petroleum distillates, but I really doubt if your statement "the US version is conventional oil" is correct either.
But, is the Canada DW-1 synthetic actually different than the US labeled DW-1?
Not sure if both are mfg'd by " Idemitsu Lubricants America".
Different Countries have different specs for labeling a lubricant synthetic or not.
Good question.
Let me know if you find out otherwise.
Thanks,
Buffalo4
Hi, all. This is my First post, though I'm an old hand at auto transmissions, and was a long time resident of "Oil refinery heaven", Whiting and East Chicago, IN. First of all, I am not now afilliated with any company or product line.

I believe it is fair to say that "Brand Labeling" rules are different in the US and Canada, not to mention other countries of the world. It is also reasonable to assume that all labels' representations are at least somewhat deceitful. It is also very common for all the automotive manufacturers to insist that replacement fluids and filters of all types come from "Authorized Dealers".

Rarely are dealer supplied fluids and filters as good as those that are "independently tested". What's more, it is reasonable to assume that those people working in those dealerships have no real clue as to which products are superior. They simply repeat what they've been told to say. Those that find the truth, will be fired in short order.

In a roomful of 50 chemical engineers who work in the petrochemical industry, you will most likely get as many different answers to the question, "what does synthetic oil products mean?" So, all arguments aside, it is good to 'let the buyer beware'. For those of you whose CRV's are still under warrantee, I say it is good to ensure that said warrantee is not compromised. It is also good to have an excellent lawyer, in case your local dealer does not properly support that warrantee.

For the rest of us, fortunately, we have the internet to do some more research on the ATF and filter issue, which I will do, and report back. From previous research online at independent research firms, I can confidently report that the best engine oil filters, bar none, are Purolator. They invented the canister type of oil filter, and have been recently tested to continue to make the best.

I thank you in advance for all research any of you also do in this area.

Best regards
 

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eutrophicated1,
Looking forward to more of your posts.
When you say the Purolator oil filter is the best, what do you mean by that?
Filtering efficiency, less back pressure, better oil flow, dirt capacity, anti-drain back valve, bypass valve, strength, gasket, looks, etc?
In most tests i have read about oil filters (no, not hearsay, but tests). Purlator Oil Filters overall, have very good results.
Do you recommend the Premium Plus Boss, the PureONE, or their cheapest one?
At this time I am using the Fram Ultra Synthetic, mainly from test results, not personal experience.
Buffalo4
 

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Anyone have long term success using Maxlife ATF? I just did a complete fluid exchange on my 07 with 43K miles on it. After reading some of the posts and digging a bit further I'm considering doing another exchange but this time using DW-1.
 

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Anyone have long term success using Maxlife ATF? I just did a complete fluid exchange on my 07 with 43K miles on it. After reading some of the posts and digging a bit further I'm considering doing another exchange but this time using DW-1.
So you did 4 drain and fills with MaxLife or ?
Why?
Even 4 drain and fills only replaces around 90% of the fluid. Disconnecting a hose and doing it that way still only gets around 90%, AFAIK.
Why are you thinking about doing another 4 drain and fills with DW-1? Are you having shifting problems, etc?
Buffalo4
 

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So you did 4 drain and fills with MaxLife or ?
Why?
Even 4 drain and fills only replaces around 90% of the fluid. Disconnecting a hose and doing it that way still only gets around 90%, AFAIK.
Why are you thinking about doing another 4 drain and fills with DW-1? Are you having shifting problems, etc?
Buffalo4

I drained the trans from the drain bolt and got close to 4 quarts out.

I put in 4 quarts of Maxlife back into the transmission.

Disconnected the strainer hoses and had wife turn on the CRV and cycle through the shifter twice until 2 quarts came out.

I added two more quarts of Maxlife to the transmission

Turned it back on and got 2 more quarts out and al that point all the fluid looked new.

I added two more quarts and checked the level and replaced the strainer filter.


No driveabilty issues, just doing preventative maintenance. It's a 07 with 43K miles I just bought.
 

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OK, you do realize that even that way all the old fluid in the torque converter is still in there, because it doesn't drain.
You most likely still have between 10 and 20% old fluid, which is very very good.
What did the old fluid look like? Clarity, color, smell?
Odyfamily is one who has used the MaxLife product for quite some time and was happy with it.
Why are you thinking about going back to DW-1?
Buffalo4
PS: Hope your CRV gives you excellent service.
 

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I was able to push out near 7 quarts before it started running clear so Im confident i got all the fluid out. being how the total system capacity if 6.9 quarts IIRC.

The fluid that pushed out was a very very dark red. Didnt smell burnt. Im asking about switching back to DW-1 because I read where folks are saying that Maxlife although in short term works can causes issues long term.

I already have the DW-1 on the way. I'll just catch the Maxlife in a clean pan and re-use it on my older chevy truck when I get ready to do that one.
 

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The torque converter will not drain but you got enough out anyways. Easier to do single drain and fills and drive a hundred miles or so and then do the next and repeat, esp with clean fluid.
DW-1 is good ATF, but so is the MaxLife.
Sounds like your old fluid didnt' show any tranny problem.
Enjoy your CRV.
Buffalo4
 

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Yesterday I allowed my daughter's 2013 CRV AWD to become a guinea pig for a long-term transmission survival test. Time will tell if it was a foolish move....

At 57k we got an A13 message. We're experiencing single digit temps around here, and even my garage is bitterly cold. Plus my back isn't cooperating, so spending time on the floor isn't fun. I had a few service coupons, so we headed for the local Honda dealer to get an oil change and tranny drain & fill (2.7 qts).

At the dealer they stood their ground that their BG exchange machine is the ONLY way to go, CRV transmissions are subject to converter issues if you don't, extended cold weather / short drives up in the Rochester area (where kid goes to school) are death if we don't get it all out, the price is right ($200 for full exchange and BG magic elixir vs. $90 for a few quarts drained).... You know the drill and the arm twisting.

Special considerations: 1) Shift quality has been a little inconsistent. 2) Fluid looked OK, but a wipe on a white cloth revealed some black. 3) Car was CPO, but no record of ever having any trans fluid service before. 4) Car is covered for 7/100 should this turn out to have been a bad move.

So we did it.... The sheet lists 12 quarts DW-1 (more than I would have thought....) plus BG 6601 (which I can't find on google). Any clue?

On a completely other subject, I'm not a fan of Maxlife based on a bad experience using it on my older Subaru in place of Dex-III. The older Dex fluids were higher viscosity, and Max has a Brookfield low temp value of the more modern energy saving fluids like Toyota WS - likely way too thin for an older box. I'm now very distrustful for any data sheet that claims their product can be used in place of virtually every fluid ever made (save Type-F from the ancient days).
 

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At the dealer they stood their ground that their BG exchange machine is the ONLY way to go <snip>

So we did it.... The sheet lists 12 quarts DW-1 (more than I would have thought....) plus BG 6601 (which I can't find on google). Any clue?
I found some references to "BG K6601", which appears to be a transmission fluid exchange machine made by the "BG" company.
The bgprod.com website had a 'find a dealer' link, which found my local Honda dealer, along with several other local car dealers listed, and with a local transmission repair shop. So I need to make sure they aren't doing that to my CR-V.

Since American Honda Motor Corp recommends a drain-and-fill process for changing the transmission fluid, I'd look for another Honda dealer.


I used to live in the Rochester, NY area, although that was when I owned a 1999 CR-V. I had some issues with a couple of the dealers in town insisting valve adjustments weren't needed, and that it was a waste of my money.
I eventually found Ontario Honda in Canandaigua, NY, where during my first visit when I asked them about valve adjustments both service writers immediately looked up at me, and said yes, they needed to be regularly adjusted. And asked me when the last time I'd had them checked.
I also liked Ontario Honda because they offered free loaner vehicles, usually an older Honda they had taken in trade. I'd drive down in the evening after work, drop of the CR-V and drive home in the loaner, go to work, then drive down again after work and pick up my CR-V. They would let it sit overnight so the engine was dead cold before they adjusted the valves.
 

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Well, you are an easy mark. :rolleyes: 12 quarts?

Can I interest you in a nice Bridge that I have for sale? :D It's a beauty!



++++++++++++


More seriously, you'll probably be OK. A Honda dealer would surely use authentic DW-1. And if they did flush 12 quarts through there without recirculating any, $200 is not out of line with the BG. I'm thinking it was BG 3106:

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/transmission/bg-atc-plus-automatic-transmission-conditioner/

"Part of the BG Transmission Service"

I would have asked them (or Honda customer service) the question: If the BG process is so good, why isn't it mandated for use by ALL Honda/Acura dealers?

++++++++++++++

Did the shifting improve to your satisfaction?


In the days before the MM, we had an Acura TL, and they recommended the first Drain & Fill at 60K miles, and every 30K after that. The tranny was still going strong at 185K when a deer took it out. :(
 

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Oh so cold, Carbuff! Yes, they claim to have pushed 12 quarts thru there, but at a mere $7.99 per quart. Cheap!

Adding a "K" is taking me to some generic machines, Racoon, but not BG. But I went to the BG site and they are listing my dealer and other shops in the area too as having their exchange equipment. I might mention it on the survey.
 

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Flushing obviously made him feel better.
That said, doing the changes at half the recommended interval under the severest conditions sufficed in the past when Honda published normal usage and severe usage recommendations.


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