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MY 2010 cr-V 4wd just had its 2nd transmission fluid change this week. At 30K. drained tranny fluid and re-filled with 2.7 quarts of Honda Z1 trans fluid. Now just passed 60K and did the same drain & refill with Honda Z1 fluid. My friend has the same model and has done this same drain & fill every 30k miles and he is now up to 198K with no problems. Actually he wants to buy mine with 60K.
Any comments----
 

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rohneral,
How does the fluid look and smell? Where did you find Z-1 as it has been replaced by DW-1 years ago as the recommended atf for Hondas that required Z-1?
Still , Z-1 seemed to work well on the CRV but was basically a disaster on the Odyssey.
Not sure what you are really asking about.
But, what you did sounds good. PS: Oil quality and wt, and frequency of changes is even more important on that vintage CRV than doing more than the recommended atf changes.
Buffalo4
 

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My Bad. DW-1 is the correct Honda trans fluid that was used. I do not suggest that this method is correct for HONDA CR-V owners but
it works for me as well as my friend @ 198K miles. It beats the $200.00 the dealers charge.
 

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My Bad. DW-1 is the correct Honda trans fluid that was used. I do not suggest that this method is correct for HONDA CR-V owners but
it works for me as well as my friend @ 198K miles. It beats the $200.00 the dealers charge.
No question about that.
Still don't know what you were asking.
Buffalo4
 

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You guys have me confused. I thought Honda just recommended changing out the 3.5 (or whatever) quarts every 20k or so.
Whatever Honda recommends for your yr vehicle in the MM, but many like to do that single drain and fill (3+qts) much more often. Many have had excellent results just doing it Honda's way. Me, I would check the atf color and smell occasionally, and, if that was fine, I would probably just stick to Honda's MM recommendations.
Buffalo4
 

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Apologies in advance if I’m not in the correct thread.
I’ve gone against conventional wisdom and not used genuine Honda ATF, time will tell if this will bite me in the butt later !
2006 model with 112000 kms new to me car which had been dealer serviced prior to me buying it. I did the 3X3 procedure with Penrite ATF ( synthetic fluid, meets the old Honda Z1 and recommended by Penrite for my car ) Also changed the in-line filter with genuine Honda part.
Old fluid was a little dark but not burnt and transmission was performing well, just changing it as part of renewing fluids on a new to me car.
I don’t do a lot of kilometres and have only done about 1000 km on the new fluid so early days however the car drives like brand new still.
I also changed the power steering fluid with Penrite HPSO ( Honda specific power steering fluid ) and the rear differential oil with Penrite HDPS ( Honda specific dual pump rear differential fluid ).
However I did use Genuine Honda coolant.
I guess if I suffer any oil related failure it will be an expensive lesson and I would definitely pass that on to the forum , however for reasons I can’t explain I think my CR-V will be just fine.
 

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Just install a Auxilary Oil Cooler and you will never need to replace the Power Steering Fluid and ATF. Make sure the oil cooler is not touching the body ground.
 

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Just install a Auxilary Oil Cooler and you will never need to replace the Power Steering Fluid and ATF. Make sure the oil cooler is not touching the body ground.
A cooler has no bearing on the trans needing service. Only elderly that dont drive over 50mph and so on can get by with that.

Coolers prolong fluid life, not make it last forever. Very "poorly educated" statement saying "never need to change it"

That said, an equal of Honda Z1 trans fluid, I would start saving for a new transmission. Honda only fluid isnt required, but needs to meet same specs as DW1, not Z1

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Tigris99;1359129 That said said:
I get where you’re coming from and I know Z1 has been superseded by DW1 but my thinking is Z1 was specified for my car when new and AFAIK Z1 was a mineral oil. The oil I’m using whilst meeting Z1 specs is a synthetic oil so should be much less affected by heat and noe I’ve done the 3X3 process I’ll do a single drain an fill every year. I knew it might end badly when I chose to not use genuine Honda branded ATF but for whatever reason I just wanted to try it ��
 

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Yeap not the same. Z1 however is well known to cause transmission issues in the later transmissions right before DW1 came out, partly because of the improper services done and partially because it didnt work well with the new design transmissions. Its what prompted DW1.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Yea, didn't really care but I mixed the 2. Moot point, the 97 is long gone.
Usually different base fluids don't mix, grease, coolant, perhaps it doesn't matter for AT fluid.
 

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Thanks Black Pearl, you are correct. The drain, fill and drive x3 then final fill is correct. I recommend measuring the exact amount of fluid drained. Just pour out the fluid from the drain pan into a cut up milk jug with pre-drawn measuring marks. Final fill level is in the middle of the two holes on dip stick. Torque converter fluid does not drain out. Fluid must be circulated through it in order to remove the old and replace with the new.

I researched auto trans replacement with the only dealer I have ever trusted, Wlisonville Honda in Wilsonville Oregon near where I live. They use a little over 7 quarts of fluid and no flush machine. Presume they use a similar method as described here having the mechanic run it through the gears while on the rack.

If taking to a dealer or indie shop UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE allow them to use a flush machine. Honda expressly advises against this practice as it will circulate any bits of metal that may be present to areas that may be damaged. Check ahead of the appointment. Hopefully you can trust their response.
 

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So it is standard practice for all Honda dealerships to do the 3x drain flush described in this thread? In that case it’s more economical to have it done by one local to me at $99. Going to attempt doing my rear differential fluid this weekend, hope it fixes the rumbling around tight turns like I read it should!
 

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Standard practice is to replace 3.x q at the recommended maintenance interval (30k?). The flush procedure would be for extreme circumstances, like neglect or performance issues.
 

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YOU NEVER EVER FLUSH A HONDA TRANSMISSION. Flushing it will cause issues.

Also do not wait 30k to do a 3qt drain and fill unless you drive a lot of highway miles and do that many miles in 2 years.

Doing the change takes 10 minutes or less for 3 qts. do it once a year from new and you'll still.have a perfectly working transmission at over 200k miles (aim at 223k right now)
 

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Hi Black Pearl. Long time no forum visiting. Hope you are well.

The one issue I recall when doing drain/fill was how to get the car hot enough to turn the fan on. If I turn on the A/C, the fan comes right on, but I think this is cheating. Is the fan coming on associated with some valve for ATF opening or closing or do they just want the car up to running temp before the drain?
 
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