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@barrys

The fan is not connected to the ATF in any way. The only goal is to raise the temperature of the ATF before draining. The goal to have fan turn on only indicates that the temperature is sufficient and also that any particulates are suspended in the ATF rather than falling to bottom of sump. This way these contaminants are removed along with the old ATF.
 

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Black Pearl is long gone...

The purpose of the 'fans running (AC off) requirement was to warm the tranny fluid. The coolant thermostat needs to be open and the radiator needs to be warm. (ATF flows through the radiator)

So, 'cheating' by turning on the fans via the A/C does not accomplish that.


You COULD just drive the car until warmed up...
 

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Is Black Pearl no longer with us? That would be sad. He was always so helpful.

I'm inclined to punt on the multi drain/fill and just do one drain, measure it, and put that back in. My shop manual is a Helm from 2007 and my car is a 2009. I know that multi-drain bulletin came out in 2008. I know my dealer used a flusher/vac at least once which sucked (be here all week...). I agree with the Black Pearl comment about diminishing returns on subsequent flushes. I might do one extra drain. (I wonder what the Helm Manual for Gen 4 recommends? I don't have that manual but someone on here might.)


I live in northern CA. It's very mild out here. Without using the air, I have never once been able to get the fan to turn on at idle. I just figure if I get the temp up to typical steady state (dead smack in the middle of the gauge) and feel hot hoses, I'm going to assume the thermostat opened.

I did a lot of looking around for deals on a case of ATF DW-1 delivered and all quotes was w/in a few percent on money. HandA and Amazon seem like the winners. My local shop will do list plus tax which is close for small amounts.
 

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Its not a factor of which Generation CRV you own. Its a factor of the longevity of the additives in the ATF which get consumed over time. These additives do things like condition seals and prevent oxidation, maintain viscosity, etc.

Nothing wrong with keeping on a more frequent schedule of single drain & fill “refreshes” at 15,000-mile intervals rather than doing 4 in short order at 60K as long as you are starting this with the knowledge that your history of a complete flush was around 15K miles ago and not 60K.

If you have reached the end of the Honda recommended ATF service interval of 60K then you need to replace all of your ATF and not just a 1/4 refresh.

What does your service manual recommend for miles between changes?
-60,000 miles ?

How many miles have you logged since last complete flush & fill?
Or can you post the results of a recent ATF sample lab result?

Lastly, my experience is 60K is too long to wait.
 

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So....
My dealer says $99 and about and hour to do the change. No way they are getting it up to temp and flushing it 3-4 times right???? If I change it myself a 12 pack plus a few washers will be about the same. What say you.


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So....
My dealer says $99 and about and hour to do the change. No way they are getting it up to temp and flushing it 3-4 times right???? If I change it myself a 12 pack plus a few washers will be about the same. What say you.


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On a 2005 CRV, the owner's manual says to change (change meaning a single drain and fill) the AT Fluid at 120k miles (page 187) or 6 yrs and then every every 90k miles or 5 yrs. I personally think that is too long. 30k miles seems to be a nice time to do a drain and fill.
The dealer is just going to do a single drain and fill, most likely, for that price.
Unless your ATF is really dark or black or smells burnt, just do a single drain and fill with Honda DW-1 (many, like me, use Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF--less than $20/gal jug at Walmart).
Doing an ATF drain and fill is pretty easy and doesn't even require jacking up the CRV. Adding the new ATF is the hardest part and that isn't hard at all if you have the proper funnel. Make sure you can fill it BEFORE you drain the fluid ATF out. Look it up.
If it is looking pretty bad, black or smells burnt or hasn't been changed in many years, do at least one more drain and fill within a 100 miles or so. (be sure and check the dipstick level to make sure the ATF is at the proper level)
A Honda 'flush' consists of 4 drain and fills with running time in between each.
Don't overthink it.
Buffalo4
PS: Most on this site would most likely recommend using the Honda DW-1.
PPS:The owner's manual also says to change the motor oil every 10k miles or 1 yr and to change the oil filter every 20k miles or 1 yr. I sure wouldn't follow that. :eek: That is with conventional oil and the OEM oil filter. :eek:
 

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What do you recommend for cvt fluid change frequency for a 2019 crv owner who plans to keep it as long as possible, driving only about 5k miles per year city (nyc)driving? I would like to do it more often than recommended and will be having dealer do it. Would once per year be overkill?
 

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Check out this link: https://www.crvownersclub.com/search/24201/?q=cvt+fluid+change&o=relevance
Just info and it may help or lead you to the answer.

Buffalo4
What do you recommend for cvt fluid change frequency for a 2019 crv owner who plans to keep it as long as possible, driving only about 5k miles per year city (nyc)driving? I would like to do it more often than recommended and will be having dealer do it. Would once per year be overkill?
If you are only driving 5k per year, than changing the fluid every year would be overkill.
 

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What do you recommend for cvt fluid change frequency for a 2019 crv owner who plans to keep it as long as possible, driving only about 5k miles per year city (nyc)driving? I would like to do it more often than recommended and will be having dealer do it. Would once per year be overkill?
If you are only driving 5k per year than changing it yearly would be overkill.
 

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So I bought 12 qts. How many miles is everyone putting on in between? Just enough to cycle the gears an mix? 5-10?


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Yeah, just one drive cycle (using all gears and reverse) is all that is needed to mix the new fluid in, for each drain.

If your schedule dictates you can do the drains over a week or two.
 

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So I bought 12 qts. How many miles is everyone putting on in between? Just enough to cycle the gears an mix? 5-10?


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You have a 2005, I believe. If the fluid was pretty dark, etc I would do the second one within 10 miles or less after making sure the tranny went into lockup (overdrive) and through all the gears to make sure all the fluid was mixed together.
After the second drain and fill, it the ATF now looks almost new, drive 100 miles or more between changes.
Usually the idea is that IF the old fluid was really dark or black, driving between the drain and fills lets the new additives gradually clean out the varnish and buildup rather than putting in all (around 90% with 4 drain and fills) new fluid quickly and perhaps cleaning it out too quickly and causing clumps to be flowing through the tranny.
At least that is what I gathered from reading the many ATF posts in this forum.
Buffalo4
 

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Any thoughts on this vid as a method of getting around the 3x drain and fill?

Looks like (s)he got ~6.5L out of a Civic--which is probably pretty darn close to the capacity of the system. Which looks like it should be cheaper/more effective/less wasteful than using the 3x drain and fill method.

--Thoughts??
 
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