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Discussion Starter #1
Symptom: A/c is not blowing cold air (blower fan is working)

Background: Three years back a/c was not working. Charged with Arctic Freeze. Worked for couple of years. A/c stopped working last year. Since it was late summer (I live in Toronto area) I didn't bother with it. Couple of days back tried to troubleshoot the problem with the newly bought HF gauge. Both low-side and high-side showed some pressure. Radiator and condenser fans were running. However, a/c clutch was not engaging. Meanwhile I lost the remaining H134A (thanks to very poorly made HF gauge). Now the fans don't come on when I turn on the A/c.

Troubleshooting: Followed SM's "Compressor Clutch Circuit Troubleshooting" steps. Fuses and the compressor clutch relay were fine. Jumping the clutch relay didn't produce any clutch click. Checked the relay socket with Power Probe III. Terminal 2 (on the relay socket) produced 12 V. Terminal 1 didn't show as ground (other relays I tested did). Now I am stuck at step 15 "Disconnect the compressor clutch 1P connector".

Questions:

1. Where is the compressor clutch 1P connector and how to access it ?
2. How to access compressor clutch (to do compressor clutch check) ? From the bottom (after removing the splash shield) or from the front and top after removing the bulkhead, bumper, grill etc. ?
3. Where is the ECM/PCM connector and how to access it ?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update: I got he vehicle on the ramps and removed the engine splash gaurd. From below I am able to access the 1P connector and was able to establish there is continuity between terminal #1 (relay socket) and 1P connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just one question I would like answered please...

Best way to access the compressor/clutch for troubleshooting / replacement (pithy overview will do).

Thanks!
 

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The clutch and fans will not engage when the freon is low, this is to save the compressor from damage. You have a leak that you need to fix. In the near term if you add some freon the fans and clutch will engage.

The normal way to find leaks is with dye and a black light, however look at your AC rubber hoses where they are crimped to metal tubes and look for signs of refrigerant oil ,that is a common place for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The clutch and fans will not engage when the freon is low, this is to save the compressor from damage. You have a leak that you need to fix. In the near term if you add some freon the fans and clutch will engage.

The normal way to find leaks is with dye and a black light, however look at your AC rubber hoses where they are crimped to metal tubes and look for signs of refrigerant oil ,that is a common place for leaks.
Thanks for the reply.

Apart from the leak I have another problem. When I jumper the clutch relay I hear no click. Based on my tests with Power Probe III I have concluded that either (a) coil is broken (hence no "ground" at terminal 1 on the clutch relay) or (b) ground connection for the coil is broken.

I want to know the best way to get to the compressor to complete the tests. Any help ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info.

I have removed the bulkhead cover, bumper cover and splash guard. Looks like I will have to remove the PS pump and alternator just to troubleshoot the problem (if coil need to be replaced or it is ground issue). I won't be able to reach the compressor to do the clutch test, otherwise.

If coil need to be replaced I might as well replace the compressor and other items in this kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-New-KT-1031-38810-PNB-006-2002-2006-Honda-CRV-A-C-Compressor-Kit/161799678627
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AC-COMPRESSOR-CONDENSER-INSTALL-KIT-2002-2006-HONDA-CRV-2-4-/262509994075

Alternative is just do the clutch with this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CR-V-Compressor-Clutch-Repair-KIT-CRV-A-C-CLUTCH-Pulley-Bearing-Coil-Hub-/252148774484

For the replacement I need to take out the condenser, radiator, fans, bulkhead. Then I will have more than adequate clearance for the job.

I will also be changing the coolant, thermostat, PS fluid, drive belt, water pump (?). Any comments ?

By the way I managed to pull a vaccum of -20 inch with http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html and makita 5200 compressor. It held for 2hours. So I am thinking it's ultra slow leak. Charge R134+ with UV dye to figure out the leak areas (for the next time).

Comments on the parts / procedure please...

By the way I cam across these links. Pretty informative for the job on hand.

Honda 2002 CRV Compressor Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5qGHBIrGTg

2004 Honda CR-V Air Conditioner Compressor Removal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0daK5tPBgN4#t=866.992103
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay. I was able to troubleshoot after removing the condenser, radiator and the fans.

Thermal protector is open :-(. Thermal protector, however, is fused to the body of the compressor. So I used chisel to break the top of the thermal and freed the two wires in it. Clutch is engaging when I bypass the thermal protector.

Questions: How do I scrape the rest of the thermal protector ? Can I just leave it permanently bypassed (potential risks ?) ?
 

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you can chip it out with a sharp pick or screwdriver, hack away at the middle then work on the copper casing. You can just bypass it, after the compressor is old and will go sooner or later, the protector only cuts the power when the compressor is hot. Its could have been not working for years.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
you can chip it out with a sharp pick or screwdriver, hack away at the middle then work on the copper casing. You can just bypass it, after the compressor is old and will go sooner or later, the protector only cuts the power when the compressor is hot. Its could have been not working for years.
Thanks for the suggestion (missed it). Will give it a shot.
Compressor is the original one. 2003 CRV with ~106K miles. So, if I bypass the thermal protector, the worst case scenario is compressor will go bust in case of overheating. Right ? Then would like to give that a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally had some time yesterday and completed the compressor replacement job (since I had the new compressor went with this as oppose to replacing or bypassing the thermal protector. Honda SM's approach seems to be difficult. Since I was replacing the condenser I went with this approach (there are couple of videos on this). I removed the bulkhead and bumper to get more room. Here are the steps (memory dump; hope I have it right):


Disconnect battery -ve terminal
Evac a/c system
Start engine, turn to max heat, shut off fan, turn off the engine
Remove bulkhead cover
Remove front bumper cover
Remove splashshield
Drain coolant
Remove bumper (absorber) -- optional;
Disconnect inlet and outlet hose and plug the hose (I used silicone plugs)
Remove bolts to free-up condenser from condenser and remove condenser
Disconnect coolant hoses, ATF hoses, fan switch connectors (condenser fan & radiator fan), compressor connector, "thermal thingy" connector from the radiator
Disconnect the coolant reservoir from the radiator
Remove radiator by lifting it up and out (along with both the fans in-tact)
Detach cables from the bulkhead (optional)
Remove bulkhead (optional; leave the hood release as is and set it on top of the engine cover carefully)
Remove drive belt (with extra long 14" wrench it's a one man's job)
Disconnect inlet and outlet hose and plug the hose (I used silicone plugs)
Remove 2 bottom bolts and 2 top bolts from the compressor (notch will hold the weight)
Remove the compressor
Install new compressor (mine came with 5.3 OZ oil; adequate for replacing the compressor and the condenser) -- bottom bolt first (lying on the floor will make this job easier; also insert the bottom bolts before placing the compressor on the hooks
Connect the inlet and outlet lines to compressor (use new o-rings)
Install new drive belt (again with extra long 14" wrench it's a one man's job)
Place the radiator and connect the coolant hoses, ATF hoses, fan connectors, compressor connector and the "thermal thingy" connector
Connect the coolant reservoir to the radiator
Install bulkhead and connect the wires back
Attach radiator to bulkhead with clamps
Place condenser (My new condenser came with dryer) and attach it to bulkhead
Connect the two lines to the condenser (use new o-rings)
Install absorber
Install splashshield, bumper cover and then bulkhead cover
Check ATF level (I probably lose few drops; so I dodn;t have to top up)
Reconnect battery
Add coolant and burp radiator
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The above steps may seem daunting but really it's not that difficult (and this is coming from a novice).

Thanks to everyone. I pored over several posts, videos etc. that made the job very easy!
 

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nirvana_1959,
Thanks for posting what you did. Sorry you didn't seem to get more support.
Hopefully your AC will work well for a long time.
Thanks.
Buffalo4
 

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Looking for some help with A/C clutch - I had A/C checked and filled - no leaks - guy indicated that due to rust on the clutch - most likely the rust is stopping the clutch from engaging - I have tried to clean and sprayed WD40 in around the clutch/tapped with 5lb hammer to see if I could free up :-
1) Should the clutch plate rotate freely when car switched off ?
2) I get a small rocking movement on the clutch but not full rotations
3) Clutch relay is OK and a visual of the wiring down to the compressor looks OK
4) If clutch should not rotate freely then maybe my issue is less to do with rust and more to do with the thermal switch or the actual coil being open circuit
 

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New member - new problem - sorry to not be able to help others on this thread yet.
2005 CR-V - 238,000miles.

Last summer the a/c system would require adding a can of R-134a about once a month. So although leaking, this was acceptable (okay - not environmentally friendly).

Didn't use a/c all winter.

This summer, I added R-134a, but no a/c, compressor not starting, even after 3 cans added. After electrical fiddling around I now have the clutch engaging and disengaging when the a/c is switched on/off. But NO COOL. Lots of R-134a into system. When the clutch engages, it does NOT feel like it is making the motor work significantly harder, as it seemed to do when the a/c was working. Can the clutch be engaging but NOT operating the compressor????

Any help appreciated.
 

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Looking for some help with A/C clutch - I had A/C checked and filled - no leaks - guy indicated that due to rust on the clutch - most likely the rust is stopping the clutch from engaging - I have tried to clean and sprayed WD40 in around the clutch/tapped with 5lb hammer to see if I could free up :-
1) Should the clutch plate rotate freely when car switched off ?
2) I get a small rocking movement on the clutch but not full rotations
3) Clutch relay is OK and a visual of the wiring down to the compressor looks OK
4) If clutch should not rotate freely then maybe my issue is less to do with rust and more to do with the thermal switch or the actual coil being open circuit
I had this same issue and the fix outlined in this video has gotten my AC working consistently: www youtube com/ watch?v=yXNXls-sRQ8 (sorry, I don't have enough posts to post a working link yet)

One thing to note is that there was a small shim behind my clutch plate, so using a grinder/Dremel to remove material from the plate wasn't necessary in my case.

Do you hear the clutch clicking when you turn on the AC? The clutch plate should be spinning when the AC is on, stationary when it isn't. You should be able to freely rotate the clutch plate with the engine off.

To remove the clutch plate you're going to want to use a large screwdriver to hold the plate from rotating and an impact wrench to remove the nut (13MM IIRC). Luckily my 20V 1/4" cordless impact driver was enough to take the nut off.
 

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New member - new problem - sorry to not be able to help others on this thread yet.
2005 CR-V - 238,000miles.

Last summer the a/c system would require adding a can of R-134a about once a month. So although leaking, this was acceptable (okay - not environmentally friendly).

Didn't use a/c all winter.

This summer, I added R-134a, but no a/c, compressor not starting, even after 3 cans added. After electrical fiddling around I now have the clutch engaging and disengaging when the a/c is switched on/off. But NO COOL. Lots of R-134a into system. When the clutch engages, it does NOT feel like it is making the motor work significantly harder, as it seemed to do when the a/c was working. Can the clutch be engaging but NOT operating the compressor????

Any help appreciated.
Have you checked your pressures? If so, what are they? I bought a manifold gauge set on Amazon for $30, it's been invaluable while diagnosing my issues. Sounds like your compressor may be seized but the clutch assembly is still rotating.
 
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