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So Napa was a bust. I went and ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076FJXJH5 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CWYDA. The ball is 10mm and is a 1/2inch so I figure these will probably do the job - fingers crossed!
Yes those should work fine. The only pity is that you had to spent so much money to get them due to the boat load of extras that come in the packs. I would just use all four and ditch the ones from China. The Amazon ball studs look to be of better quality.


Rob
 

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Yes those should work fine. The only pity is that you had to spent so much money to get them due to the boat load of extras that come in the packs. I would just use all four and ditch the ones from China. The Amazon ball studs look to be of better quality.


Rob
Yeah that was the only negative part I felt when I put it in my cart. At any rate since I am paying a premium I might as well use the complete set from Amazon. The ebay seller finally got back to me and said he wanted me to send him the item package box in order to get the hardware. Realistically that isn't happening - it's a gamble whether any item from ebay through China contains all the needed parts. Oh well at least I learned some part names and know what to be cautious of in the future if something like this were to happen again or to a friend. Thanks again for the help robbyg! I will still post back when I get everything from Amazon.
 

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I would like to know the strut length then build this kit locally. The only part that might need some fabrication is the L bracket but I think I can find a corner brace and drill it to fit.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Scootaaa, did you buy the exact same kit for your 2014? Installed as shown in the Gen-5 photos, or are there any differences I should be aware of? Care to post a photo? Thanks!

I love the factory hood struts on my Outback, and would consider upgrading the CR-V with this convenience feature.
 

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Scootaaa, did you buy the exact same kit for your 2014? Installed as shown in the Gen-5 photos, or are there any differences I should be aware of? Care to post a photo? Thanks!

I love the factory hood struts on my Outback, and would consider upgrading the CR-V with this convenience feature.
I think Scootaaa has left the forum. I sent him a PM on Dec 27 and have not heard back from him. His last post is dated Dec 21st.
 

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So I got the struts installed. I will say that if you do get the complete set of mounting hardware then the install is smooth as can be.
I used aftermarket u-nuts and 10mm ball studs. The aftermarket studs couldn't fit through the L-bracket so I used the original ball studs for those.
Also getting the aftermarket u-nut and 10mm installed in the hood was not great. I eventually got it nice and tight but the metal hole was barely big enough for the screw.
On top of that when I went to tighten it down there was a metal pop sound on my way to tightening it. I only used the aftermarket parts for the one hood mount. I luckily had enough of the original packaging to get the rest installed.
It's working fine now - I don't know if the hood strut is supposed to have no flex whatsoever or just a tiny amount of flex. That might be due to the ball joint than anything.

I'll be keeping a close eye everytime I pop the hood and make sure everything is good. I have a slight worry that I might have overtightened the nut for the strut/shock tower.
I first used a torque wrench and that was fine but the problem was that when I was getting it to the torque setting it would rotate the L-bracket. I used a regular socket wrench to get it tight - possibly too tight.
 

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These strut kits are available from several vendors on EBay for just over $20 dollars now with free delivery from China. I ordered a set just for kicks and it arrived in a little over a week. Seems to be fairly well made parts, the L bracket is a little primitive looking but it is finished nicely. The struts are generic with no outward markings visible. I will let everyone know how they are after the install.
 

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Overall a very nice low cost upgrade to the CRV. Total installation took about fifteen minutes. My only suggestion is to crimp down the tabs on the captive nut clips that go on the hood. They will then fit tighter so they don't fall off when you cover them with the sound deadener. They work perfectly and hold the hood open at the exact position the original stay does. (I know this for a fact) I used the original stay instead of a helper to install the kit and had trouble lifting the hood high enough to get it down! Nice low dollar upgrade in my opinion. Here is the vendor I used.https://www.ebay.com/itm/112831819336
 

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I have them on my 2017 EX-L and love them. Very easy install. No 3m glue.
couple of question for folks who've done this.

the online instructions call for loosening a bolt on each side of the wheel. Any concerns around undoing that? I thought those were for the suspension. that's the only thing keeping me from trying this install.

any risk of these making a dent on the hood keeping it up? it's not clear from the picture I saw if they'll be holding up the hood in a nice thick supported part of it. i.e. that seems like lots of weight at a very steep angle.

i hate the oem prop up rod position considering i'm going under the hood every other day now to try and check the oil level.

thanks
 

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I like the hood shocks much better than the prop rod, but it just isn't a big deal to me. I'll leave mine as it came from the factory, but these do seem like a good buy and easy to install for those so inclined.
 

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I am not sure if the prices of these struts amaze me or scare me. I have a 2010 Ridgeline and our forum, as a group did a buy here: https://www.shopfigs.com/v3/cat-hood-trunk-supports

They cost well over $100 at the time. But are probably over-engineered. As you can see they favor Lexus/Toyota models, although still have them for the Honda RL. It's been some 5 years, and they work just great. I took some pics of the mounts, etc. so you can compare with others.
 

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couple of question for folks who've done this.

the online instructions call for loosening a bolt on each side of the wheel. Any concerns around undoing that? I thought those were for the suspension. that's the only thing keeping me from trying this install.

any risk of these making a dent on the hood keeping it up? it's not clear from the picture I saw if they'll be holding up the hood in a nice thick supported part of it. i.e. that seems like lots of weight at a very steep angle.
i hate the oem prop up rod position considering i'm going under the hood every other day now to try and check the oil level.

thanks
All you are doing is taking off on of three strut nuts on each side and putting it back on. Nothing can change with the others still tight. The clip nuts install in place of the two plastic snaps that hold the hood insulator onto the innerstructure of the hood. The ball studs go through two flat washers on top of the insulation and into the innerstructure. I suppose you could bend something if you were totally incompetent and over extended the hood by pushing up past the travel for some reason! But I really think the innerstructure can easily support the amount of force of the hood on it as it is lowered. Your hood hinges are bolted to the innerstructure into welded nuts! This is about a ten to fifteen minute install at best if you really take your time.
 

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I am not sure if the prices of these struts amaze me or scare me. I have a 2010 Ridgeline and our forum, as a group did a buy here: https://www.shopfigs.com/v3/cat-hood-trunk-supports

They cost well over $100 at the time. But are probably over-engineered. As you can see they favor Lexus/Toyota models, although still have them for the Honda RL. It's been some 5 years, and they work just great. I took some pics of the mounts, etc. so you can compare with others.
Totally different kind of setup from Figs.Very short, powerful strut that has to be to work at that angle on the hood. They are using the hood hinge mounting points which is close together and makes the strut do all the work. Not a bad design but even OEM hood supports are usually longer and the points are further apart to lessen the effort needed to work. Looks like a stout setup
 
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