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Discussion Starter #1
If I'm not mistaken, is the hood security switch located in the hood latch? It appears so but, I'm double-checking before I start my next adventure. (The blow-by-blow details will follow soon!)
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Yep...

136539


136540


Now I just need to trace it to the interior. #11 is the connection to a larger wiring harness.

Pretty sure it's the light blue wire (connector G, position 13):

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136541


It appears that if the light blue wire is connected to ground, it indicates to the MICU that the hood is open (the switch closes when the hood is open).

136557
 

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Yep...

View attachment 136539

View attachment 136540

Now I just need to trace it to the interior. #11 is the connection to a larger wiring harness.

Pretty sure it's the light blue wire (connector G, position 13):

View attachment 136542

View attachment 136541

It appears that if the light blue wire is connected to ground, it indicates to the MICU that the hood is open (the switch closes when the hood is open).

View attachment 136557

You are correct on both accounts! It's located in the hood latch assembly and yes the MICU monitors the wire for a ground as "hood is open" (technically it's called a "Pull down" condition).

Screenshot_20191207-112411_Chrome.jpg


Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You are correct on both accounts! It's located in the hood latch assembly and yes the MICU monitors the wire for a ground as "hood is open" (technically it's called a "Pull down" condition).
This should work the same as a traditional metal-bodied single wire hood switch then? What I'm working on comes with a hood switch and it looks like a relic out of the 1970s. They don't give any instructions, nothing but a wiring diagram showing which wires to connect to. They do show the color codes for wires in the vehicle already, except for the hood switch (which they provide as optional if the car does not have one of its own).

Looking forward to hearing whats going on!
I'll try to get some photos along the way. 😁
 

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Yep...

View attachment 136539

View attachment 136540

Now I just need to trace it to the interior. #11 is the connection to a larger wiring harness.

Pretty sure it's the light blue wire (connector G, position 13):

View attachment 136542

View attachment 136541

It appears that if the light blue wire is connected to ground, it indicates to the MICU that the hood is open (the switch closes when the hood is open).

View attachment 136557
Yes, you are correct.

As long as the latch body had a good ground (which it should since it's bolted to the upper radiator bracket) and the latch switch CLOSES when the latch is OPEN (check it on the bench to be 100% sure), then just connect the LT BLU to the latch pigtail and you'll be good to go.

Keep us updated! 👍🏼

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It appears as though the LT BLU wire is located at the under-dash fuse panel, so i will tap into it there. There are three other wires I need to tap into in the interior, so it's all good.
 

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It appears as though the LT BLU wire is located at the under-dash fuse panel, so i will tap into it there. There are three other wires I need to tap into in the interior, so it's all good.
Sound like a good plan 👍🏼

Just keep in mind, you can always back probe it with a fused jumper wire to ground to mimic an open hood condition be for you run any wires (only fused if you're not 100% sure of the wire you're hitting. If you are, then forego the fuse and use a plain wire).

If you ground it with a/any door/s open, then the security won't set when you close and lock the doors (the security indicator will NOT start to blink).

If you ground it AFTER the doors are all closed and locked for more than 20 seconds and the security indicator is blinking, the alarm should sound for 2 minutes.

Good look!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, the wiring is so tight in the harnesses that I don't think I'll be tapping into them as I had planned. Plus, I would have to remove the inside fuse block and all those connectors on the front to get it out enough to look at what's behind it. So I may end up running a wire out to the engine bay although I hate doing that since it's very sloppy. I had to give up messing with it since it got so cold here.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It turns out I didn't need the hood switch after all--somehow, the system I installed was already detecting the hood status, which I found quite accidentally. Details here:

 
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