Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner
21 - 35 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Hi all,

My 2005 CRV, which I bought about 3 months back(134k Kms on), seems to have quite bad fuel economy, about 13-14L/100kms on mixed city and highway usage.

The car was serviced just after I got it, and doesn't really have any issue wrt how it runs and drives. I fill-up 95 octane, and using FUCHS 5w-40 engine oil (as the mechanic raved about it). I drive quite conservatively and don't put much stress on the engine. Pickup and power seem to have no issue.

What might be the cause of bad fuel economy? Is it just the age of the car and it is to be expected?

It becomes rather expensive to take the car on longer trips with this fuel economy, combined with current fuel prices!

Many thanks!
Could be your air/fuel ratio and/or O2 sensor. If they are defective or coated with enough exhaust residue they may not give the PCM/ECM accurate readings. In a situation like this the PCM/ECM may not set a code or turn on the check engine light. I know because it was my experience with subpar gas mileage on my 2011 CRV with the original sensors. Spark plugs can also be an issue. Take them out & have a look at them (gap, color, oil fouled?).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
City vs Hwy will always win with Hwy. City are stop and go and that burns petro that the nature of stop/go traffic. You can't improve mileage in those instances.
Vinay made no mention of City vs Highway mileage. He purchased a 2005 CRV with a 134K miles on it. When was the last time those sensors were replaced? They do degrade over time, passing on inaccurate readings to the PCM/ECM which can definitely effect gas mileage. The computer(s) process information received from the various sensors. If the sensors are not reading the proper quantity then the calculations performed by the computer will be inaccurate & the actuators that it controls will not be commanded properly - in this case the fuel injectors (if that is the problem with poor gas mileage in this instance). You can also check fuel trim with a scan tool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Ill chime in here since I have what seems to be THE SAME model and year. I am at just over 90000 miles and I have a fuel log I have kept since my first day driving it after purchasing during the pandemic. I have added about 5000 miles to it since acquiring it from the original owner, undoutedly a less “spirited” driver than myself:cool: and I still get right at the bumper of 20 MPH, sometimes half a MPG less, sometimes a half a MPG more. I have AWD version automatic transmission, don’t think that has been asked Or stated just yet. I also have a Thule cargo box on top, have had so over 6 months and I took readings BEFORE I added the box, again, lost MAYBE a single MPG to that box on top so I leave it. I don’t haul everyone or everything around all the time. I pick up dirt and rocks and mulch and make short trips home from the store with these items. I drive nearly ALL my miles in city streets maxing out at about 50 MPH and have more than enough stop signs and traffic lights to keep me from traveling more than 3 miles in a straight line uninterrupted. I have about a 13 mile commute to and from work daily. I have a small service due with oil change and have read NOWHERE for my car on 40Woils, but I live in Houston Texas so I go with the oil cap at 5W-20 and full synthetic along with the OEM Honda oil filter. Thats my two cents worth,OH I almost forgot, I just use the 87 OCTANE from every pump I go up to,and its near impossible to get fuel around me without Ethanol of at least 10% thrown in for “free” LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Ill chime in here since I have what seems to be THE SAME model and year. I am at just over 90000 miles and I have a fuel log I have kept since my first day driving it after purchasing during the pandemic. I have added about 5000 miles to it since acquiring it from the original owner, undoutedly a less “spirited” driver than myself:cool: and I still get right at the bumper of 20 MPH, sometimes half a MPG less, sometimes a half a MPG more. I have AWD version automatic transmission, don’t think that has been asked Or stated just yet. I also have a Thule cargo box on top, have had so over 6 months and I took readings BEFORE I added the box, again, lost MAYBE a single MPG to that box on top so I leave it. I don’t haul everyone or everything around all the time. I pick up dirt and rocks and mulch and make short trips home from the store with these items. I drive nearly ALL my miles in city streets maxing out at about 50 MPH and have more than enough stop signs and traffic lights to keep me from traveling more than 3 miles in a straight line uninterrupted. I have about a 13 mile commute to and from work daily. I have a small service due with oil change and have read NOWHERE for my car on 40Woils, but I live in Houston Texas so I go with the oil cap at 5W-20 and full synthetic along with the OEM Honda oil filter. Thats my two cents worth,OH I almost forgot, I just use the 87 OCTANE from every pump I go up to,and its near impossible to get fuel around me without Ethanol of at least 10% thrown in for “free” LOL
The owner's issue with the 2005 Honda CRV was poor gas mileage. Oil viscosity boils down to manufacturer's recommendation (more or less). If you have variable valve timing I would stick with the OEM's recommended viscosity due to the screens & perhaps the size of the oil passages. Poor gas mileage can have a number of causes. I would start out with hooking up a scan tool & checking the readings, codes, fuel trim, etc. I would check the spark plugs, clean the MAF sensor, compression, check for vacuum leaks, etc. The fix for my 2011 CRV just happened to be the air/fuel ratio sensor. It was the original one. Tossed in a new O2 sensor for good measure. Those sensors cannot survive in that hot environment forever.
 

·
Registered
2002 Honda CR-V Engine K20A4 Made in Ayutthaya Thailand
Joined
·
31 Posts
Got my 2002 back from the shop Saturday.
Did the first fillup since new engine installed
22.2 MPG - Imperial
As the engine is still tight I expect this number to rise as the miles accumulate.
Well pleased with this.
I am running 15W40

Be aware that sensors operate in a given range, and if they are in that range the ECU will not throw a code - no Check Engine light. So if 1 or 2 or 3 are borderline, you will need real time data to spot it, along with the appropriate experience.

As they are not too expensive You might try replacing them in order and record the difference - if any - in fuel consumption. Start with MAF, then O2, etc
Mine threw no codes, even tho' with my Snap On a couple were borderline. Now in the landfill (Don't tell Greta)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
I agree Seedy. Without the original specs/waveforms it is not always easy to pinpoint the culprit sensor that is pulling down the gas mileage. I typically factor in cost, age, scan tool data, and sometimes just a calculated guess. Some of the techs out there are more or less parts-changers, and the good ones will have you pay for their trouble-shooting time (which is only fair). The problem is we sometimes don't know who the good ones vs the bad ones (techs) are! The D.I.Y.s with the time and resources will go at it and often find the offending sensor. My issue is with the shops that charge you for parts & labor that does not fix the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hi all,

Some update on what's going on at the moment.

I changed the oil to 5w30 from 5w40. Over inflated the tires a bit (to 32).

Long trip just after this gave me a highway milage of about 9.5L/100 km. I believe it is not so bad for a 17 year old car.

One month of city (stop and go driving), or 2 tanks worth of driving gave me about 14L/100km, which is quite poor.

I was just giving the car a look thru today as it was sunny for a change. Everything looked good (oil, transmission fluid, air.. blah blah).

I hadn't had a look at air filter myself after buying the car. I got the car serviced by a mechanic and he told me its good and doesn't need changing. I decided to have a look anyway today, and the screws were so tight, there was no way these were taken off in atleast a couple of years. Philips head started to round the head!

I got a socket set and was able to finally remove the air box. The air filter had a date of 2016 and was full of black oily dust.
Drinkware Gesture Cup Wood Plant


Automotive tire Rim Stairs Automotive wheel system Wood


Grille Plant Outdoor furniture Bumper Automotive lighting

Cherry on the cake, I found the cabin filters to be totally missing! Not sure why would previous owner do that.

I am going to replace the air filter and put in cabin filters. I will report back if the economy improves after I go thru a couple of tanks after that. I am sure this will have a noticeable impact.

Moral of the story: don't trust the mechanic, no matter how convincing they are. I need to find a new one now. 😒

Thank you all for all the suggestions on how to diagnose the issue. I don't use the car a lot. Mostly it's used 2 times a week on grocery runs and once in a few months a 100-200km weekend trip. So don't really want to sink too much money into it 🙂. It has been a good car so far apart from the fuel economy issue.

For the experts : Does a choked air filter impact more at slower speeds (stop/go driving)?
 

·
Registered
2002 Honda CR-V Engine K20A4 Made in Ayutthaya Thailand
Joined
·
31 Posts
Most of that filter media looks nice and white.
To be sure shine a light thru the filter. If you can 'See the Light' then filter is OK
Or hold it up to the sun and look inside - see the Sun then OK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Most of that filter media looks nice and white.
To be sure shine a light thru the filter. If you can 'See the Light' then filter is OK
Or hold it up to the sun and look inside - see the Sun then OK
That filter was toast. I couldn't see light pass thru it, either in sun or using my phone's flash.

Car Motor vehicle Grille Hood Automotive design


I have replaced it. And got hold of DW-1, so I can change the ATF once the weather eases up a bit. Will report back if that helps.

I think it's the driving conditions which are resulting in poor fuel economy. On longer trips I am consistently getting 9-10L/100kms. But on shorter trips (like 3-4 times a week, but only like 2kms each trip in city traffic), it's fuel economy is pathetic. I am guessing it's all the energy that gets wasted to bring the engine to temperature, only to be shut off again. On top of that it's been quite cold (5-10°c) in Sydney recently. Surely that has a negative impact on fuel economy as well.
 

·
Super Moderator
2018 EX-L fwd
Joined
·
1,473 Posts
With filters, I’ve always written the date when I installed the filter on the filter itself. That way, I know immediately how long the filter has been installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Best thing is to clean your injectors. I did mine at about 130k. They were spluttering out. Now they are perfect.

Do yourself or take to a shop and get them ultrasonic cleaned.

Dont waste your money on cleaners in the fuel, won't do it.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
The owner's issue with the 2005 Honda CRV was poor gas mileage. Oil viscosity boils down to manufacturer's recommendation (more or less). If you have variable valve timing I would stick with the OEM's recommended viscosity due to the screens & perhaps the size of the oil passages. Poor gas mileage can have a number of causes. I would start out with hooking up a scan tool & checking the readings, codes, fuel trim, etc. I would check the spark plugs, clean the MAF sensor, compression, check for vacuum leaks, etc. The fix for my 2011 CRV just happened to be the air/fuel ratio sensor. It was the original one. Tossed in a new O2 sensor for good measure. Those sensors cannot survive in that hot environment forever.
The O2 sensor is the air-fuel ratio sensor…
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
9.5 l/100 km is great for this car. For reference my 2006 Camry 4 cylinder with only 133k km’s gets 9 l/100km highway.

My 1999 crv has always gotten about 12.9 l/100km city. Recently it has been really bad—15 l/100km. I have yet to figure out the cause. It is parked for the summer. It could be that my timing is slightly off since I did a timing belt job, had misfires, and adjusted the timing to get rid of them. I never had the timing correctly done with a timing light.
Your timing could be off slightly, but that would mean your chain is stretched. City vs highway driving—could be a Vtec problem. It would kick in more during city driving. Maybe it’s not working correctly.

Regarding fuel injectors and O2 sensors. I just saw a tech video on this. If you have negative fuel trims, you are running rich. That would likely be a fuel delivery problem like leaking injectors.
Can one not see this by using a scanner with data and reading the short term and long term fuel trims? Also, O2 sensor voltage can be displayed.
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Top