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Just inherited my Dads EX with 44k on it, am starting to dig into the brakes. The car spent three winters in VT, there's a good bit of corrosion on various brake parts, more than I would have expected.

Haven't done brakes and rotors before, pretty confident I can handle it, but not sure I know how to diagnose if the calipers are working properly. Symptoms as follows:

Very uneven wear on rotors from pads. "Height" of wear zone on rears differs from front to back of both rotors, not the full"height" of the pad on any of the four rear rotor surfaces. Had to remove the caliper bracket to get the caliper off on the one corner I pulled apart, the pad next to the piston was stuck in the caliper bracket and didn't budge. The surface of the piston, and the inside of it, were heavily corroded.

Front rotor wear is more uniform on each face, but is smaller on the inside than the outside.

Input welcomed.
 

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Makes sense. When you buy new pads, do they come with all the shims and clips, or do those need to be pay hashed separately?
 

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Makes sense. When you buy new pads, do they come with all the shims and clips, or do those need to be pay hashed separately?
New brakes will usually come with new hardware. When you buy them look in the box. I have never had an issue where something was needed that did come with the new pads.

If you go to a parts store on the internet that is located near you, and key in your information, you will see what comes with the new pads.

Make sure you get some brake parts lubricant too.

https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-2/
 

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Usually if one pad is worn a lot more than the other, your caliper is sticking. I've never gotten new shims with new pads, just used the old ones. Do want to make sure all sliding parts are greased well. The area where the pads mount and slide on the mounting bracket is important.
 
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