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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i presume there are several things that could cause a poor idle, but here goes:

2002 CRV, 5 speed AWD

Idles high, about 2000 RPM when i put in the clutch ....then, if i keep clutch in, it will go down to what it is supposed to be around 700 or 800 after about 15 seconds. I am not 100% sure, but it almost seems like I need to come to a stop (at a stop light, for instance) - and then it will drop down below 2000 to about 800 after about 10 or 15 seconds.
The Check Engine Light is NOT on, so I can't put my odb2 reader on it.

any suggestions on how to diagnose what is going on, and how to fix the high idle issue?
 

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2005 and 2006 EX AWD
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sounds like a dirty or bad idle air control valve mounted on the throttle body,slow response IAC if the throttle plate isn't sticking unlikely but possible,if it was a vacuum leak the idle would never come down to 700 so probably IAC and clean throttle plate while in there and disconnect the battery negative so it relearns new parts/cleaning (idle relearn) (edit) make sure the cold engine air bypass is shutting after warm up that bypasses the throttle body when cold and adds air to the intake where the fuel rail is mounted and goes to the air intake boot before the throttle body,but probably the IAC is dirty/bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sounds like a dirty or bad idle air control valve mounted on the throttle body,slow response IAC if the throttle plate isn't sticking unlikely but possible,if it was a vacuum leak the idle would never come down to 700 so probably IAC and clean throttle plate while in there and disconnect the battery negative so it relearns new parts/cleaning (idle relearn) (edit) make sure the cold engine air bypass is shutting after warm up that bypasses the throttle body when cold and adds air to the intake where the fuel rail is mounted and goes to the air intake boot before the throttle body,but probably the IAC is dirty/bad
would a bad IAC throw a CEL code? OEM replacement look sort of pricey.......aside from trying a new one, is there any way to test the old one to see if its bad before spending a couple hundred on a new one?
 

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No IAC wont cause a check engine light unless it shorts out internally.

A cheap one or one from a junk yard can be a good way to test.

Better yet is to properly clean it out. Very often its lack on maintenance so things get overly dirty and cant work correctly.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No IAC wont cause a check engine light unless it shorts out internally.

A cheap one or one from a junk yard can be a good way to test.

Better yet is to properly clean it out. Very often its lack on maintenance so things get overly dirty and cant work correctly.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
good suggestions...I will start with cleaning it.....it is relatively a 'new' car to me, so I have no idea when it was replaced or cleaned......
 

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this you can check without taking anything apart just pulling the hose off the boot going to the throttle body it shouldn't have any vacuum when coolant temperature is above 149F, probably not the problem but it can cause a high idle
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
this you can check without taking anything apart just pulling the hose off the boot going to the throttle body it shouldn't have any vacuum when coolant temperature is above 149F, probably not the problem but it can cause a high idle
I will check this first - I am not sure how the 02 CRV is supposed to idle when the engine is cold, but mine idles around 2000 RPM until it warms up , then drops down.......about the same RPM as when hot, and I put the clutch in......
Does 2000 RPM sound 'normal' on a cold engine at start up?
So I remove the hose closest to the throttle body (not the one connected to the thermal valve)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
this you can check without taking anything apart just pulling the hose off the boot going to the throttle body it shouldn't have any vacuum when coolant temperature is above 149F, probably not the problem but it can cause a high idle
I do not see anything going to the throttle body - I see a tube coming from the airbox area, then a tube going behind the fuel rail - I see that it can be eliminated entirely, as it really doesn't do much to begin with......3/8" NPT to plug the hole, then 2 caps and clamps to block off the areas where hoses are currently going.......I have no idea if mine is functioning correctly, but from what I've read , it is only for cold starts and not really needed beyond that.
 
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