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Discussion Starter #1
So I read in another thread about increasing horsepower that someone else was getting 36ish mpg. I am very jealous, so I ordered all of the parts today. He stated that only a few parts and some synthetic oil could achieve this on a long drive. This is what I got so far..

2007 - 2011 Honda CR-V SUV DX/LX/EX/EX-L - 2.4L BBP AIR INTAKE SYSTEM AIR FILTER for 122.00 dollars shipped
Armor Mark 680K7 Serpentine Belt for 19.90 shipped
ACURA RSX TYPE S & R K20 2.0L DOHC 02-UP 3 PIECE PULLEY KIT - SILVER for 133.80 shipped

So I have spent 275.70 so far on parts. As far as the labor I will install the intake myself (free). I am however going to get some help with the pulleys. I will report back as to how much that costs me for an accurate grand total.

Right now our 09 CR-V EX-L is averaging 20-21 mpg in lovely DC traffic. If we can get 27-28ish average out of this I will be tickled pink.

If you have any other ideas on improving our MPG throw em at me. If nothing else I will report back with what changes we experience with these modifications.
 

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So if gas were about $3.75 per gallon, you really spent the equivalent of about 74 gallons of gas. At your current/old rate of 21 mpg, you will then have to drive 1554 miles to break even and anything after that would be "profit" if it improves it at all...if those changes bump you up to 27 mpg in DC traffic it will be AMAZING ( I honestly can't see it doing so by just changing the intake/filter and a belt), and hope you do report back to us. I hope it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
/\ I know rickhow my buddy laughed at me and said "you are all in". The idea is simple and has been done on many other models. Many accessory pulleys are made of a cheap cast to keep cost down. A cast pulley is very heavy. Just making the pulley lighter and adjusting the size can change a lot.
Small update, got the belt today. It smells like new rubber. I also scheduled some help for the pulleys, next Wednesday for 70 dollars. So the running total is 345.70 and some of my time.
I am all in on this, but we generally keep our cars for 7-10 years. So in the big picture this could work. I am going to keep detailed records on actual mileage and gallons of gas.
The one thing that has got me nervous is the other thread where a member made a cheap intake and threw a check engine code. I at least ordered an intake designed to work, so only time will tell.
 

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So the air intake came in from ebay today
2012-05-19_15-38-11_422.jpg

My first over all impression was over priced junk. The intake tube had an unnecessary coupler to attach a MAF sensor. The instructions where next to useless. The heat shield is cheesy, and the mounting brakes don't work.

But I already paid for it and returning it is a PITA so I installed it any way. Be for warned if you don't know your radio's security key, you are going to need it. When installing an intake system you need to disconnect the battery to reset the ecu and have the MAF sensor go through a relearn.

We can add another 10.00 dollars to the grand total on nuts bolts and brackets purchased from home depot.

This is how it looks installed.
2012-05-20_14-39-24_919.jpg

So after riding around running errands on a beautiful Sunday, the gas mileage display is about back to where it was before. We only put about 30 miles on it before our check engine light came on.:mad: This is where better instructions would have came in handy. The kit came with 3 different pieces of plastic for changing how the MAF sensor acts. I did not know which one or two I needed so I installed none. Luckily I have a code reader and I reset the light after adding one of the "MAF adapters".

So far the only noticeable difference is the sound of the motor is different and louder. The mileage counter was slow to raise after resetting the ecu. But right before the check engine light turned on it was going up about .3 mpgs for every mile driven.

We will only have till Wednesday to track the difference the intake makes before the pulleys go on. I will change my mind about the quality of the intake kit if the adapters keep my CEL off. I will keep this thread up to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So the CEL came back on today :mad: But it was a different code, now it is running rich. The adapter made a change, too much of a change. It came with another adapter that I put in and reset the light. The intake is getting closer and closer to the trash. It has made the engine louder and the CEL come on. I have a feeling that this adapter will make it work correctly.

So far the gas mileage is about the same as before, but it has only been two days. I am having the pulleys installed on Wednesday and am making a trip to the shore this weekend. It is about 250 miles round trip so I will get a chance to check out the changes.

I will probably take off the intake a few weeks down the road to see if it has any noticeable effects on the mpgs. This will help and see if the changes are the pulleys or the intake.
 

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I get around 27 mpg and everything is stock. I live in NY where I do alot of highway driving. If I keep the RPMs in the 2000 range I get great mileage it falls as the revs go up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Flyguide our crv sits in stop and go traffic every day. Our local news doesn't even mention how 270 south bound is in the morning, cause it is stopped every day. It takes my wife about 45 minutes to drive 9 miles daily.:( So we have been averaging about 21-22 mpgs.

Until today, according to our on dash display, we are averaging about 26-27 mpg:cool:. I know the dash is the most accurate but I will document our fill ups.

So the air intake is working out. The CEL went away and so did the loud noise. The plastic adapter worked and keeps the CEL off. If the kit came with better instructions and a proper mounting bracket I would love it. But over all I think that the intake is accounting for the most change in our MPGs.

Last night I went to install the pulleys. The power steering pump and alternator pulley are great. They are light weight and slightly larger than stock. I had to remove both to install the pulleys, not a small job.
2012-05-23_18-29-54_626.jpg

The crank pulley is a no go in this kit. It was so close but it rubbed on the crank case. So I am on the hunt for another pulley. You can see that this pulley would have been a great size and was so close to working well
2012-05-23_18-30-38_236.jpg

This weekend we are going to the shore which is about 125 miles away. We filled up on Tuesday night and put about 30 miles on it before the pulley were changed. So this will be close to the first tank with most of the modification done. The ecu might still adjust the fuel trims more. With out the crank pulley I don't think the other two pulleys will affect the mpgs much at all.

If anyone has any suggestion as to were to purchase an under drive crank pulley for a KA5AT I am all ears. The factory part numbers are 13810-rza-008 and 13810-rza-a01. According to Honda this pulley does not interchange with any other 2.4. When I look at aftermarket pulleys there is a whole list of compatible vehicles. I have read that the following crank pulleys are the same,
2003 / 2004 / 2005 / 2006 / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 / 2010 Honda Accord (Japan built) 2.4L 4-Cylinder Engine
2002 / 2003 / 2004 / 2005 / 2006 / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 / 2010 Honda CR-V 2.4L 4-Cylinder Engine
2003 / 2004 / 2005 / 2006 / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 / 2010 Honda Element 2.4L 4-Cylinder Engine
2002 / 2003 / 2004 / 2005 / 2006 Acura RSX Base or Premium/Canada (w/o Type-S) 2.0L 4-Cylinder Engine
2004 / 2005 / 2006 / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 / 2010 Acura TSX 2.4L 4-Cylinder Engine

Does any one KNOW which is true? I already have one paper weight that is probably ebay bound.
 

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Hi, I told you I would be amazed if your plan of attack increased your mpg by over 5 mpg as you anticipated. If I read you last post correctly you have increased from 22mpg to 27 mpg..so consider me amazed. :). What further amazes me is your parts ran you about $250. Now to a company like Honda those parts would probably cost them no more than say $125. So why in the world wouldn't they do this on every car and just charge $125 more, even $200 more which they could easily do if they could put on the sticker 27mpg around town, for an SUV, they would simply kill all competition. So I'm amazed and skeptical at the same time :). Can't wait to see your highway mpg. I just took a trip and going without the air on, econ mode (my is an AWD too), I got 33.5 mpg. With a/c on on the way back I got 32.2 or so. So you should anticipate 37 or 38 mpg hey?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well rickhow, we had some problems on the trip to the beach. The bracket I made did not support the filter very well, and the filter kept falling off. Each time it did that the ecu kicked me into safe mode. My wife was very upset with me. We had to stop cause the cr-v wouldn't go and replace the filter and maf sensor. The best part of it was the first time we were half way in between the beach and our house. When the ecu goes into safe mode it gets worse mpgs and makes terrible sound.

We averaged about 28 mpg for the weekend. Keep in mind that this 125 mile trip should take about 2.5 hours going high way speed. The trip there was 3.25 hours and back was 4.25 hours. It was stop and go the whole way. We also drove around on rt 1 for some more stop and go. We are going to need a much larger sample, to see how this works out, but around town it is better. I don't know why everyone on here says there dash mpg display is so far off, ours has been with in 0.1 of being correct.

I am still on the hunt for a under drive crank pulley. Not sure where or when I will find one.
 

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Oh man, I can practically hear your wife...mine would kill me :) :). I too find the dash mpg to be very true. Keep working at it, you'll get it right soon I'm sure. Another thought came to me and I was wondering, you probably know, does modifications to the "engine" like you are making void your warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The air intake shouldn't void your warranty. The pulleys if someone noticed could, but I would fight it. Our cr-v is a 09 with 43,xxx miles so no worries about the warranty here.

It takes about 6 heat cycles for the cr-v to really adjust to the intake. Every time we get past this something has happened requiring me to reset the ecu again. So we are going to give it time.
 

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mcfarton,
what were your final results in trying to accomplish 30+mpg with a new air intake, new flywheels and a new belt? By the way, were able to find a fly wheel to fit and that didn't rub? If so, I am considering the same upgrades. I have a 2006 crv lx. Any increase in mpg for a nominal price is well worth the investment.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the air intake is good for 1-2 mpg and some more engine noise. the crank pulley is the same on a civic si 2.4, I am waiting for mine. I found one from nst performance for 120.00. They are on back order right now. My wife hated the extra noise from the air intake and made me remove it. If you are interested in it give me a reasonable offer.
 

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OLD THREAD BUMP!

I'm getting horrible MPG too. I have an 08 EX AWD and usually get 20 MPG on a tank. My driving is around 75/25 HWY/City. I usually set my cruise on 80 on the highway, so I know that doesn't help, but I did the same on my 04 Nissan Maxima (3.5SE V6) and could average 23 MPG. What gives??
 

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If I go 80 MPH on the highway I get 22 MPG.

If I go 55 - 60 I get 30 MPG.
 

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It also says "While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds)" Does anyone know what the speed is for the 3rd gen?
The page I posted a link too has a "What is the penalty for my car?" button.
When you click it, it allows you to select year, make, model, and options.

Good luck. :)
 

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It also says "While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds)" Does anyone know what the speed is for the 3rd gen?
The page I posted a link too has a "What is the penalty for my car?" button.
When you click it, it allows you to select year, make, model, and options.

Good luck. <img src="http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.png" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
Gotcha......
 

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I'm getting horrible MPG too. I have an 08 EX AWD and usually get 20 MPG on a tank. My driving is around 75/25 HWY/City. I usually set my cruise on 80 on the highway, so I know that doesn't help, but I did the same on my 04 Nissan Maxima (3.5SE V6) and could average 23 MPG. What gives??
It could be any number of things.

I was doing 75-80 MPH out west last year and had gas mileage anywhere from ~24-27 MPG. I had one tankful at 22 MPG on the very same mostly flat terrain only on one tankful of gas that I burned--it's strange, as once I got on the freeway with that tankful, the "range" reading on the dash almost immediately gave me a lower number than other tankfuls I'd had. One of my best tankfuls was from Sinclair. I did notice that if I were traveling at 83 MPH or higher (speed limit is 80 in South Dakota--keeping up with traffic usually had us at 85-90), the mileage took a nosedive. But I never saw any drastic change between going the average 70-80 keeping up with highway traffic.

On the other '09, mileage was continually in the 26s when my other half took it down to Hilton Head and back, even going through the mountains. It also has newer tires (purchased last November).

So it could be the gas--higher ethanol content will lead to lower gas mileage, as do summer vs. winter blends. (And who knows what crappy gasoline chains like Speedway put into their gas.) Could be tire inflation, the age of the tires or even the type of tread. Could even be dragging rear brakes (as one of our compadres pointed out in my howling rear brake thread). Valve clearance may not make a difference but it can't hurt to check that either. 20 MPG is not normal. I would definitely look into things you could check to see why it is so low.

I've only had 19-20 MPG when I've driven locally on surface streets (stop and go), on short trips where the engine never fully warms up. Generally though, I count on at least 25 MPG on highway driving, but more like mid 26s. :)
 
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