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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I just joined and so loving that this forum exists. What's up all you Gen 1 owners! Lovers? Idk, I love it and I hope you do, too.

Welcome to me:
Like in the title, I have a 1999 LX 4WD Automatic Transmission with about 240k miles. New to me, at least the 3rd owner but probably more. Very hazy maintenance history but everything seems to be working really well. I actually found out it was from an auction around 2017 (lol). Found out by VIN because it had been impounded back then with different plates. And I was looking it up because it had been stolen after just 4 days! It came back to me about 2 1/2 weeks later (cat and radio still there, just tools stolen) and now I love my messed up baby that much more. Promptly got a steering wheel lock (mostly as visual deterrent, a determined person will do what they're gonna do) and put a kill switch on the PGM-FI relay. It's got a lot of cosmetic to do, not-great door locks and an instrument panel from a '97 (so I thought the transmission couldn't shift into 1st but it's fine). THAT'S MY INTRO. Thanks.

Here's my question:
Does anyone know the diameter of the heater in/outlet pipes? I'm trying to back flush it before doing a coolant flush...before changing the water pump...because I'm changing the timing tensioner.

Anything you all could do to help would be um...helpful.

Thanks!
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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581 Posts
AFAIK, the usual flush procedure is still this:

1, Turn heater control to full hot, and fan switch to full speed.
2, Warm engine up to operating temperature to open the thermostat.
3, Drain system of coolant.
4, Fill cooling system with clean distilled water.
5, Operate engine until it is completely warmed up and coolant circulates for several minutes.
6, Repeat steps 3, 4 and 5, until clean water drains out of the cooling system. This may take several repetitions.
7, Perform any intended repairs, and refill cooling system with correct water coolant mixture.

Whenever backflushing part of the cooling system, I would not suggest connecting a pressurized hose. You want the hose size to be incorrect so that if there is a blockage, water will simply be forced out of the open inlet hose instead of damaging the car part in question by being forced through. The flushing procedure above should completely clean out every part of the cooling system, including the heater radiator, however.

Additionally, recommended procedures usually include replacing the thermostat anytime the coolant system is opened up for repair because that is the most frequently compromised component. Also, since the timing belt is difficult to get at under normal circumstances, and must also be removed to access the coolant pump, it is usually a good idea to replace the timing belt anytime you gain access to it or replace the coolant pump.
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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Welcome to the forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@kloker Thank you!

@Lochinvar Word. That bit about the hose mismatch may come in handy. I don't want to blow up that little radiator and planned on using very low pressure. But still better to be safe than sorry.

And yeah my main job actually is the timing belt and tensioner haha. It didn't pass smog for a misfire. No codes (could be the '98 instrument panel on a '99) and I went through the procedures on the "random misfires" page of the manual. When I did a valve adjustment I saw the cams are at least a tooth off from each other. SO...I'm diving in. So I actually worked it out from the opposite direction. Gotta do the timing/tensioner so might as well do the water pump so might as well do the coolant/thermostat so might as well do preventative on the heater core.

One question though, I know it makes sense for the thermostat to be open but wouldn't warming up first be dangerous because of pressure/hot coolant? I'm also going to drain from the engine block to make sure I get everything.
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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You'll need to remove the radiator cap before starting to warm the car up. That wll eliminate the pressure issue. Yes, you'll need to be careful around hot engine parts and coolant.

The thing is that if the thermostat is still closed, the block won't drain because the closed thermostat won't let air in to replace the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah, remove the cap before warming up. Okay now it all makes sense. Yes and the previous owner had put green coolant in so I'm trying to flush aaaaall of it out and replace the replaceables. Hoses are still really good for now tho!
 
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