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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been scouring certified 2011 CRVs for a month now and the price difference compared to a brand new CRV is almost negligible.

One dealer is selling a '14 CRV AWD LX for $22.9K total (minus taxes and title).

I just looked at a '11 CRV AWD SE with 33K miles being offered for $18K. The car has been sitting on the lot for 2 months! Minimal service records on the Carfax.
I offered $17K for the vehicle and the salesman rejected without a counter offer!! He wanted nothing to do with moving on the price.

I have perfect credit, cash on hand, etc.
Is it simply a no-brainer to purchase a new CRV given such horrendous used prices? What am I missing?
 

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It does seem that it's easier to get a good deal on a new car. At least in my area that seems to be the case as well. My dealership even has 4th gen used CR-V's for only a couple of thousand less than a brand new one. So it may make more sense to just go new if your budget can handle it.

In your case, you're looking at two different body styles so if that matters to you, then weigh that in your decision. You figure the 22.9 for the LX is just the MSRP so after some haggling that will come down even lower and if they won't budge on the used one, it seems like new is the way to go.
 

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Get a new generation.
We had the last generation and the new generation is so much better is every respect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You figure the 22.9 for the LX is just the MSRP so after some haggling that will come down even lower and if they won't budge on the used one, it seems like new is the way to go.
MSRP is actually $25K. $22.9K is the price quoted by the dealer after a phone call. Not sure how much more haggling can be done if I stop in an take a look.
 

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Figure at least 22k if they want to make the sale. So for a 4k difference you get 33K less miles and a new body style. It's what you're comfortable with paying and making sure you're not wondering if the older one is going to give you any trouble. Although with a certified pre-owned you get a decent warranty if I recall.
 

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It's almost funny, I see ads all the time for used/older ones that the price of is more than what we paid for ours OTD.
Wait till the end of the month and they'll be willing to deal even more I bet. It's the end of the fiscal qtr so a sale will look better to them.
Can you wait?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Figure at least 22k if they want to make the sale. So for a 4k difference you get 33K less miles and a new body style. It's what you're comfortable with paying and making sure you're not wondering if the older one is going to give you any trouble. Although with a certified pre-owned you get a decent warranty if I recall.
Certified gives you:
  • 12m/12K on top of the existing bumper to bumper
  • 7y/100K total powertrain

I could probably buy a comparable extended warranty for a couple hundred bucks.

It's almost funny, I see ads all the time for used/older ones that the price of is more than what we paid for ours OTD.
Wait till the end of the month and they'll be willing to deal even more I bet. It's the end of the fiscal qtr so a sale will look better to them.
Can you wait?
When does the fiscal quarter end exactly?
I'm ready to buy now and I can wait, if needed.
Really I just want the best deal, I don't have my heart set on any particular price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will say, I'm getting treated like a Rockstar now that I'm inquiring about new car prices.
They are actually asking me what other dealers are offering before I can even open my mouth.
 

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You should google when the fiscal qtr ends to be sure, I don't know. It did help though when we bought my Accord.
Read your extended warr well. We unfortunately didn't and it has some restrictions in it that I wouldn't have gone for if circumstances had been different.
I usually would recommend getting a CPO car just for the warr, but I like to know how the engine has been treated from day 1 when it comes to owning one long term. I doubt we'll ever get another new car again, at least in my lifetime.
 

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Our sales guy told me to check True Car for the best pricing, after we had bought it. I checked and we did better than that, but I think a lot of it had to do with our credit rating and the fact we bought two cars that day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Our sales guy told me to check True Car for the best pricing, after we had bought it. I checked and we did better than that, but I think a lot of it had to do with our credit rating and the fact we bought two cars that day.
I might be reading it wrong but True Car's numbers are absurd.
They claim $23.9K for an LX AWD is a "GREAT" value.
I have one dealer offering $22.5K ($400 dealer fee NOT included) over the phone....so what am I to call this? A "sell-your-first-born" value?
 

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I didn't like True Car because it did show a "great deal" as more than what I paid. So I must have gotten an out of this world deal :D and I still thought I could have done better.

What I usually do is look for their internet price link on their website, ask for a quote and then try to get that as low as I can. Even if means going to different dealerships.
 

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I haven't looked at TC for a while, does it give OTD total prices or before tax/lic/fees prices?
I usually ask to see the invoice price for the car I'm interested in and start dealing from there.
 

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According to TC's site:

The TrueCar Price Estimate shown on the Certificate includes the destination fee and the regional advertising fee. The TrueCar Price Estimate does not include dealer installed accessories, applicable tax, title, licensing, and documentation fees, other state and governmental charges and/or fees, dealer-locate fees for out-of-stock vehicles, and any other charges and/or fees allowed by law.
 

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I didn't like True Car because it did show a "great deal" as more than what I paid. So I must have gotten an out of this world deal :D and I still thought I could have done better.
Agreed...for me True Car (through Consumer Reports) had a value just under invoice and I paid just over including a bunch of dealer add-ons and services (including some accessories) that added another $1,500 to the price. The dealer basically ate the add-ons and I was happy with what I got (including an extension of the powertrain warranty to 10 yrs/100,000 miles). The True Car value didn't seem all that special.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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That was the problem I had while shopping for used cars. The good ones we want cost almost as much as a new one! Granted the used ones had more options than a base model... but still the choice becomes... 3-4 year old car with all these options and about 30,000-50,000 miles or so... or spend a few thousand dollars more to get a new base model car... with <100 miles and is good for the full 20+ years because you are the one who will keep it long term and know it was not abused and things were maintain properly.


When I purchased my CRV, I looked up what the dealers put up on cars.com. I did try truecar.com but the prices seem higher on the website. Part of me wonders if Truecar gets a cut of the money because they "referred" a customer to you to make a sale. It is like any other sale, the person who manage to make the sale gets money. I doubt if Truecar is doing this for free and expect nothing in return, You also notice when you try to find a dealer only a few is listed? I know a few Honda dealerships around the area but Truecar only listed 2 guarantee to accept that price?

I rather just talk with the dealers internet sales directly then get referred by a 3rd party person, they probably have the power to make a better deal for you since they actually work there then to go through a 3rd party sale.


Also a note to remind all car customers, watch out for any fees or extras added to the price when purchasing a car. Some dealers will offer a lower price, but add on a unnecessary fee to mark the vehicle back up. When I purchased my CRV here in the states there was only 3 things listed. Taxes, registration, and I can't remember the third one but it was an additional $220 on top of the taxes and registration. All might vary by state.

They make it think you get a good deal until you get buried by paper work! Always ask for the final sales price with taxes and fees. If you want extended warranty ask for it ahead of time, so they can't try to mark you up when going over the price. Nothing wrong asking them to itemized your sale if they have nothing to hide.
 
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