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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought this 2001 CRV back in September. It has < 80,000 miles on it, but I'm pretty sure it sat somewhere for a while, a result of that being a failed rear U-joint. Right now, my drive shaft is hanging on to the rusted joint and I'm getting some bad whirring while I'm on the road.

Unfortunately, Honda does not sell JUST the U-joint. They want to sell you the entire drive shaft for $1000. I have found the joint through Rockford Drive Line for ~$35, but they won't have any in stock for a couple weeks. Thus, comes my question:

Is it completely safe to remove the drive shaft completely? It's my understanding that this will basically make my car front wheel drive only. I don't anticipate a situation where my AWD would have to engage, so I don't personally see an issue with doing so.

Let me know what you think. Thanks!

EDIT: According to this topic:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12242

It is perfectly save to drive without the drive shaft. However, it is ill-advised to replace just the U-Joint.

I do have a warranty, I just don't have the time to leave my car in for the work right now. I'll be able to in a couple weeks.

For now, I plan on removing the drive shaft. Does anybody have any more info on the u-joint or a dissenting opinion about the shaft?
 

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I believe several on the board have removed the pilot shaft before to troubleshoot a problem without any issue. My understanding is that there's no harm done.
 

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No issues if you remove the driveshaft..
in fact, you are better off removing the whole "rear wheel drive"
remove the shaft and the rear differential/axles, save yourself some extra expenses due to that useless rear junk, and say hello to some significant better gas millage..
 

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I have my 01 (awd) rear drive shaft removed to save gas mileage last April.
15k miles later, there is no gas savings at all, but never though of removing the axles.
I live in Minn so I will be reinstalling the drive shaft come winter for snow traction.
Honda told me it was ok to run without it.
165k miles, and my drive shaft u-joints are a bit sticky too, but good enough for another season.
 

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there is not one issue removing it besides the abs will be working a little wierd becuase the rear diff is opperated off the abs and brake bios. it will not help your fuel milage at all if you remove everything i am sorry. but i would put the prop shaft back on as soon as you can thou just to be a little safer.good luck

ps have you looked in a junk/ savage yard for a prop shaft.
 

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there is not one issue removing it besides the abs will be working a little wierd becuase the rear diff is opperated off the abs and brake bios. it will not help your fuel milage at all if you remove everything i am sorry. but i would put the prop shaft back on as soon as you can thou just to be a little safer.good luck

ps have you looked in a junk/ savage yard for a prop shaft.
The ABS and 4wd systems work 100% independantly of each other.

Pulling the prop shaft will have zero effect on the ABS.
 

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on the crv it dont matter if you remove it but there is a slight chance the abs will act a little different there is a slight possibility. but i highly dont recommend the removal of the prop but it will not hurt in the long run.
 

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on the crv it dont matter if you remove it but there is a slight chance the abs will act a little different there is a slight possibility. but i highly dont recommend the removal of the prop but it will not hurt in the long run.
The ABS and 4wd systems work 100% independantly of each other.

Pulling the prop shaft will have zero effect on the ABS.

The ABS works off of sensors at each wheel. The RT4WD is controlled by two pumps contained in the rear diff. It is a purely mechanice system that has noelectronic controls. RT4WD only works under accelleration.
 

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The ABS and 4wd systems work 100% independantly of each other.

Pulling the prop shaft will have zero effect on the ABS.

The ABS works off of sensors at each wheel. The RT4WD is controlled by two pumps contained in the rear diff. It is a purely mechanice system that has noelectronic controls. RT4WD only works under accelleration.
It also works under deceleration. For example say you are decending a steep hill in first gear using engine braking to control your speed and the front tires encounter a slippery surface. Once they begin to slide and the front axles begin to turn slower than the rear axles the duel pumps will sense the difference and engage the rear axles.
 

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It also works under deceleration. For example say you are decending a steep hill in first gear using engine braking to control your speed and the front tires encounter a slippery surface. Once they begin to slide and the front axles begin to turn slower than the rear axles the duel pumps will sense the difference and engage the rear axles.

This is correct...But only when going in reverse.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/files/rtawd.pdf
 

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This is correct...But only when going in reverse.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/files/rtawd.pdf
I did not know the valving functioned differently depending on the rotation direction of the pumps. Honda must be trying to protect from the back end coming around under undesirable (higher speed) conditions by not allowing it to engage upon deceleration while moving forward, however it would be desirable for it to engage in the condition I used as an example. Just another example of why it would be nice if they added a low speed lock function like the Pilot has.

Funny we are discussing traction or the lack of it and the definitive description is on skidmore.edu :)
 

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it does function under the deceleration function and i do know what the RTAWD does not the RT4WD i understand i am a honda tech and yes to a point when in a stop or stow moving point it does act together i know there 2 different systems but they work together to keep it from spinning around. and or loosing traction at a small point of it coming of or coming to a stop . honda was brillant when they came up this system and i love it perfect control. and yes a low diff lock fuction would be amazing.

i understand the RT4wd and the RTawd are the same just saying lol sorry lizzard man i am just saying what i have replaced and seen in the past 7 years in the honda mechanic world in good ol oklahoma usa .
 

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it does function under the deceleration function and i do know what the RTAWD does not the RT4WD i understand i am a honda tech and yes to a point when in a stop or stow moving point it does act together i know there 2 different systems but they work together to keep it from spinning around. and or loosing traction at a small point of it coming of or coming to a stop . honda was brillant when they came up this system and i love it perfect control. and yes a low diff lock fuction would be amazing.

i understand the RT4wd and the RTawd are the same just saying lol sorry lizzard man i am just saying what i have replaced and seen in the past 7 years in the honda mechanic world in good ol oklahoma usa .
The system automatically disengages under decelleration which oddly enough is when most braking occurs.

99% of the time the vehicle is in FWD only....How is the missing prop shaft going to change the way the ABS works? The only sensor on the rear diff is a temp sensor that will trigger a release valve if the rear end over heats.

Unless i am missing something here please explain how the ABS system even knows when 4wd kicks in.
 

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So in "normal" day to day driving, probably 90% of the time, Im driving in fwd? Hardly seems worth having 4wd!
Exactly. The CR-V is my second AWD vehicle. The other is an old Volvo V70 XC. Both operate in FWD the vast majority of the time. The only time they are useful is our one week of real snow and another week of monsoons. The other 24 weeks, it's FWD with extra weight for "rear traction". ;)

Has anyone ever tried launching hard, on balding tires, with traction control off, before installing new tires? Inquiring minds want to know!
 
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