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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Today I received some sad news from the mechanic, they told me they didn't think my 2005 CR-V was worth the rapairs needed. I love my car and I really don't want to lose her but I can't put the money into her if she isn't going to last. Here are some specs:

336,036km

2005 4 door, all wheel drive, automatic, good body with no rust, rear breaks just done, front breaks at 75%, no major accidents or damage.

Current error codes:
P0341 - CMP Sensor (VTC control) Performance (they say there is an oil leak in the front of my engine that is dripping directly on my Camshaft and they have to take the engine apart to find the leak)

65-1 -Low break fluid (said it was a little low but was topped up)

83-1 - ECM Relation failure

22-10 - open or increase resistance in right front seat belt tensioner

92-20 - Short in Passenger air bag cut off indicator.

So the big issue is the engine oil leak/camshaft, and the EMC failure. To fix these the shop said easily $2000+. CR-V will also need new summer tires this year (the winters on right now are good)

So... is she worth the money? Or should I start looking at the new CR-V / HR-V?

Thanks in advance for your help!!

Melody
 

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Hello.

What kind of advise are you expecting? It's your money. Your decision. But I would not spend a lot on a vehicle with that mileage.
 

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Well, how is it running now? Is it doing OK?
http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-crosstour-2003-current-118/p0341-error-code-2931624/
Post #4 is interesting.
A weak or failing battery or bad battery connections can cause many different codes to appear, including ECM codes.
The low brake fluid light could just be the sensor in the brake fluid reservoir (usually can be fixed by cleaning out that reservoir and then adding new fluid.
Oil dripping on the camshaft? Overhead cams.
Some people use a particular additive to help stop or really slow down a leaking oil seal, I can't think of the name of it but it contains a number in its name. I 'think' it was ATP AT-205 Re-Seal, but not positive.
Do more searching before you decide to have the work done or sell the CRV. I think you will find that your CRV is not in need of all those repairs being done by a shop.

Seat belt problems are sometimes covered under lifetime warranty.
Air bag errors are sometimes caused by bad contacts (oxidized) in the connector(s) under the seats.

Do some research on each of those codes online and get on several different pages.

I think you will be happily surprised with what you find. Well worth doing.

Buffalo4
 

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I'd also get a second opinion. My next stop would be a Honda dealership to see what they say...I'd bet that you'd also have a salesperson offering a "great" trade in offer for a new or new to you Honda...see what they say, what your budget allows, how long do you want to keep the current V, etc.

You do have a lot of mileage but not so much for an '05...if the V is otherwise in great condition and you love it, it may be a win to drop a couple of grand, or less, into repairs that would give you another year or more of trouble free driving while you begin saving/prepare for a new/newer one.
A car payment will be much more than the repair cost, as will the increase in insurance, etc. But only if you love the V and the repairs will provide you with at least a year or two is better of driving.

Good luck and keep us informed.
 

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Nothing wrong with a 2nd Opinion. Go for it!!!! Flushing out the brake system with all new Brake Fluid is easy. I'd do that before throwing in the towel over brakes. Do you see any loss in oil? My wife drives a 2005 CRV. My truck is a 1993 Ford F-150 with over 300,000 miles. Fix what is safe and cost effective your CRV and run the wheels off of it. As long as you are safe driving it, drive. You will get nothing in trade in. Evaluate the level of insurance you are carrying on it too. No need for full coverage if you will get very little if it is totaled. If you live in a Commonwealth like I do, save the taxes and pocket that money for when you really need a vehicle. For my truck, I have my eye on the new Ridgeline..... as long as Honda has gotten away from that damn spring wire clip and adapter from a H1 to a two connector. I hate that thing on the wife's 2005 CRV.
 

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If It were mine at this mileage, I would do 1 of 2 things.

1) If I couldn’t afford new payments, I would just fix whats needed, (not what the mechanic recommends) and drive it till it drops. Who cares if there a light on the dash, and it’s still running strong.

If it’s still running fine in the summer, get some used tires, unless your confident it will keep running strong, 2) “then" buy new tires.

** Fixing just whats required to keep it running safely will be cheaper than new monthly payments. But, the new HR-V is very tempting......
 

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IF you start breaking down then dump it. I would buy a new car because I can't afford the headaches. If it costs $2000 to keep it on the road for a year I would dump it. If I had to keep it I would fix the minimum and live with the oil leak. I wouldn't put too much money because other things are going to pop up too.

Sell it on Craigslist.
 

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I would agree with most of the comments on here -one get a 2nd opinion and like Nick indicates - your issues could be a sign of things to come.....my last car (non-honda) - was faced with the same sort of decision - in my case the bare min cost on an '06 was $3K - bit the bullet and got it fixed - lasted another 2 years than same issue was cropping up - decided to dump it- had I not dumped it - would have to rebuild the engine and transmission so that's how I got my current V.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
All of the lights are off after visiting the shop on Saturday but obviously none of the issues were fixed. When I called my local Honda dealership, they said I would have to wait until the lights were back on for them to diagnose the problem. That seem counter productive but I guess I wait until the engine and vsa lights come back on now.
 

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Why not buy your own scanner. This is a cheap one but I don't know if it is good or not.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131409619170
Lots of low priced ones out there. Well worth the money.
I use an Ultra-gauge (http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/) and find it very useful as it has many other good features. (I bought mine years ago and it is wired and is mounted to my windshield).

Do more Internet searching for all those code problems that your shop told you about. Many times the solution is not difficult or costly, while other times they are.
Before you let a Honda Dealer check it, ask what the code reading costs? Many times you can buy an excellent real time OBDII reader for around the same amt. Almost all those will also reset the engine error codes, but usually not the SRS codes.

Buffalo4
 

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You obviously love your car so I'd go along with most of the above opinions - get another opinion and proceed from there. If you end up trading in at a dealer, don't let them start adding on all these bogus charges that they love to do !! My sales tax here was just over $1000 on a 2 yr old CR-V so there's money I'll never see nor did it help me at all with anything. (One of my pet peeves is taxing a car every time it's sold) Proceed slowly. Craig
 

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A guy I used to work for had similar problems. He had a Toyota Highlander which needed $6k in multiple repairs over the course of 12 months to keep it on the road. Not including down time.

He ended up trading it in after spending all that $ for repairs and only getting $4500 for it, $1500 less than the repairs and that doesn't include what he paid for it. I told him before it started that he would be better off leaving it on the side of the road.

Yes, he got some miles out of it, but those were expensive miles. You are looking at expensive miles too. The cheapest deal if you don't drive excessively and have little cash would be a short term lease until you can afford to buy a car.
 

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I thought that once a code was thrown it could be erased, but, you could still see it as having been thrown, ie it's in the history sort of.

Did the shop make you an offer on buying it from you?

I'd recommend getting the second opinion too. How many dealers are in your area?

The decision to buy a new car is really hard to make not knowing your financial situation. When I was working I always felt it was important for me to have a reliable and economical way to get to work. Most times this meant an older, fun to drive car I was willing to work on, if I had to, to keep it running reliably. As I got older, it wasn't so important for it to be fun to drive as much as it was for it to need less work done on it. Thus the move to newer cars as commuters.
In your case you need to ask yourself what is my time worth and how do I want to spend my time. You either are working for the money to pay for a new(er) car or working and spending time (trips to the shop) keeping the old one going. I've always come to the conclusion that spending time paying for a new car is more worthwhile since it allowed me to determine how I would spend my time on my terms, not on how a car breaking down demanded I spend my time fixing it or getting it fixed.
Just trying to give you some food for thought and some perspectives on this decision.
Keep us posted.
 
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