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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Which of course drives up repair costs, since those direct sensing systems really need to be R&Red each time tires are replaced. But the Acura brand is probably more tolerant of this additional maintenance cost compared to the Honda brand, even though they are both Honda brands.
I have to go lie down.
 

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Which of course drives up repair costs, since those direct sensing systems really need to be R&Red each time tires are replaced. But the Acura brand is probably more tolerant of this additional maintenance cost compared to the Honda brand, even though they are both Honda brands.
Not necessarily. I traded in an 11 year old Chevrolet with the original sensors still working fine. The current GM system works really well. If replacements are necessary, the sensors learn their location without needing a scan tool. So a set of winter tires can be swapped in easily.

I love my CR-V, but I would prefer actual TPMS sensors that display the tire pressures like my Corvette does. And it's also nice to have a good solid valve stem to check tire pressure, vs the flimsy rubber stem.
 

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Not necessarily. I traded in an 11 year old Chevrolet with the original sensors still working fine. The current GM system works really well. If replacements are necessary, the sensors learn their location without needing a scan tool. So a set of winter tires can be swapped in easily.

I love my CR-V, but I would prefer actual TPMS sensors that display the tire pressures like my Corvette does. And it's also nice to have a good solid valve stem to check tire pressure, vs the flimsy rubber stem.
There is "what you should do", and there is "what you can get away with". Two different things, often deliberately confused by owners trying to save a buck here and there. :)

The tire industry best practice though is to apply an R&R kit to a direct sensor in a tire as part of replacing the tires. Special kits are made for this very purpose.

Certainly not mandatory, but tire shops will tell you what they know and advise in terms of best practices based on owner experiences ... which is to NOT wait until the sensor fails before servicing or R&R. Reason is not the pressure sensor so much as the little bits that go with it.. like seals, gaskets, various little plastic bits, etc.

Just like tire shops will install new rubber valve stems when replacing tires even though the existing stems still work fine at tire change. It's to prevent angry customers coming back after a recent tire change complaining that their tire is leaking, or the sensors are not reporting correctly, etc.
 

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There is "what you should do", and there is "what you can get away with". Two different things, often deliberately confused by owners trying to save a buck here and there. :)

The tire industry best practice though is to apply an R&R kit to a direct sensor in a tire as part of replacing the tires. Special kits are made for this very purpose.

Certainly not mandatory, but tire shops will tell you what they know and advise in terms of best practices based on owner experiences ... which is to NOT wait until the sensor fails before servicing or R&R. Reason is not the pressure sensor so much as the little bits that go with it.. like seals, gaskets, various little plastic bits, etc.

Just like tire shops will install new rubber valve stems when replacing tires even though the existing stems still work fine at tire change. It's to prevent angry customers coming back after a recent tire change complaining that their tire is leaking, or the sensors are not reporting correctly, etc.
On early TPMS, it was more complicated, and the sensor battery life was lower. But in the last 12 years of Chevrolet and Lexus TPMS sensors, with multiple sets of tires, no dealer or tire shop recommended replacing the sensors with the tires. There are no additional bits on the current generation sensors.
 

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It's quite simple, you push the plug with special "screw driver" through the punch and off you go with compressor. I think the most severe issue is to discover the punch, and then drill through to clean up the whole before installing the plug. Most kits manufactures, at least over here in EU, limit the max speed allowed after this process thou, yet the range. Meaning to say how far you can go before getting proper fix on the tire. I've seen limits 60-80 km/h max and no more than 80 km range (50 miles).
I picked up a comprehensive tire plug kit for about 25 bucks, has everything: plugs, air pressure guage ,pliers , valve stems you name it. Actually now that think about it I did a plug once about 20 years ago with the tire fully inflated, I pulled out a screw, reamed the hole quickly and rammed in a plug, a little scary not wanting the tire to go flat and lose a bead to prevent re-inflation, needed to work fast. I watch a few youtube videos recently how to be more organized during the aforementioned process. I got the kit for trips, it may afford more flexibility over Honda's inflator kit for certain types of punctures and make a difference between being immobilized and being able limp to a repair facility. Around town I won't even bother carrying the kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 · (Edited)
I picked up a comprehensive tire plug kit for about 25 bucks, has everything: plugs, air pressure guage ,pliers , valve stems you name it. Actually now that think about it I did a plug once about 20 years ago with the tire fully inflated, I pulled out a screw, reamed the hole quickly and rammed in a plug, a little scary not wanting the tire to go flat and lose a bead to prevent re-inflation, needed to work fast. I watch a few youtube videos recently how to be more organized during the aforementioned process. I got the kit for trips, it may afford more flexibility over Honda's inflator kit for certain types of punctures and make a difference between being immobilized and being able limp to a repair facility. Around town I won't even bother carrying the kit.
There's some overlap, but these two types of kit also each take care of puntures the other won't. There are also flats with which neither kit will help. In the interests of being prepared for most possible tire problems, I'm casually looking for a run-flat donut small enough to carry.
 

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There's some overlap, but these two types of kit also each take care of puntures the other won't. There are also flats with which neither kit will help. In the interests of being prepared for most possible tire problems, I'm casually looking for a run-flat donut small enough to carry.
I had 2015 camaro RS/SS, because of Brembo brakes and staggered rubber (wider on back) no spare in the SS (but other camaro trims of that year had one). I read stories from a company that made spares for high performance cars to avoid damage from flats beds as the low performance car was being winched up on to the bed, clever advertising , it got to me so I bought a spare that worked on the front and back.. don't have the car anymore, but have the spare..LOL (that I can't seem to sell BTW, probably need to advertise nationally). I've also had few corvettes (two new , two used), same situation, no spare, staggered rubber, but they had run run flats do didn't worry about being stranded. Back to the CR-V, just curious why a run flat donut as opposed to an aired temporary spare? (i've given some thought to a spare too, just for trips, I don't think I'll do it, but you never know, tire repair kit was a compromise, I understand certain types of damage are not repairable but thought it might offer additional protection over Honda's inflator sealer system in the right circumstance.
 
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