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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2002 Honda CRV EX
188,xxx Miles
Automatic


Background : I recently traded for this vehicle a few months ago. Last week, I went on a road trip ( 350 miles) and one of my transmission lines broke which ended up spewing all of my transmission fluid on the ground. I had the car towed to a shop and the transmission line replaced. Once I left the shop, my transmission slipped out of gear when I was going up a hill @ about 50 MPH. I had a friend take me to the store and we added a quart of tranny fluid hoping that low fluid levels were the cause . This seemed to fix the problem. I went ahead and went back home (350 miles) with no problems. The tranny fluid on the dipstick is between the indicated levels.

Current Issue There are certain times while driving that the car "shudders" or "Jerks" when accelerating and switching gears. First off, when starting the car cold, the rpms at idle are around 1500. If I switch the car in gear and put it back in park, the rpms idle at around 1100. I don't remember it doing this before.

The car switches between Park and 1st gear fine. 1st to 2nd is also fine. However, when switching from 2nd to 3rd ( about about 30-35 mph) the RPMS seem to be higher than before and taking longer to switch the gear. Sometimes when I let of the pedal when the rmps are high the car will smoothly shift gears without further increasing the RPMS. There is no jerky feeling between 2nd and 3rd, however the RPMS are higher than before. I believe they are around 3000-3500 before it will switch. The jerky feeling is felt when I am getting on the highway and approaching 50-60 mph. The jerk is not violent but you can definitely feel it and its not normal. Sometimes if I can sense it coming, I can let off the accelerator and the car will shift fine. Sometimes there is no jerk at all. Once I am finally on the highway doing 60+ there are absolutely no problems and the RPMs are normal. When I got my oil change today, I asked the mechanic and he said it sounds like my 2nd gear clutch is going out which means I need a tranny rebuild.

Questions

1. Due to being a broke college student, I was not able to afford the 3x flush and drain with Honda Genuine Tranny Oil. The tow and repair bill drained my wallet so I had to use whatever compatible tranny fluid that Autozone had. Now I don't know if I should spend the money and get the proper oil? I don't want to spend the money to change the oil if my transmission is indeed going out anyways? Should I roll the dice and see if it fixes it?

2. Before my busted tranny line, my car drove completely fine. After the tranny line, these problems started. Is it possible that I damaged something when I drove with the transmission fluid leaking everywhere?

3. Does this indeed sound like a transmission issue? Is a rebuild in my future? What other potential problem could it be?

4. I am moving to Minnesota in a few weeks and will need to make a 500 mile trip. I've thought about getting AAA just incase my car does go bad. Is it reasonable to think that MAYBE I can make this trip even with the problems I have described? ( I know, this is a stupid question and impossible to answer accurately)

I hope I included all necessary information in this post. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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To answer the first question these trans are very sensitive to the fluid. Since you are unsure what fluid the mechanic put in and you yourself stated you use something you think was compatible. I would start with a full fluid change. A x 3 flush gives you around 90% fluid change. My local Honda dealer recommends doing x4 change when unsure of fluid or extreme duty. Be sure to get at least one new crush washer for the drain bolt when you are doing the final fluid change or it might leak. There less tha a buck each. And what ever you do DO Not HAVE A shop change the fluid with a trans flush machine it can/will damage the trans
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To answer the first question these trans are very sensitive to the fluid. Since you are unsure what fluid the mechanic put in and you yourself stated you use something you think was compatible. I would start with a full fluid change. A x 3 flush gives you around 90% fluid change. My local Honda dealer recommends doing x4 change when unsure of fluid or extreme duty. Be sure to get at least one new crush washer for the drain bolt when you are doing the final fluid change or it might leak. There less tha a buck each. And what ever you do DO Not HAVE A shop change the fluid with a trans flush machine it can/will damage the trans



How much can I expect the 3x flush to run? If my problem truely is a bad transmission , I don't want to throw money away. Also, there is only one type of tranny fluid in the car. There is not a mixture of two...for what its worth.
 

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You can expect around $80.00 for all the fluid and a crush washer. It's very hard to say if you did any damage to the transmission. I do know that anytime I have had a poor running or shifting CRV a x3 flush has fixed it. As I stated earlier Honda's are very temperamental when it comes to ATF , rear diff fluid I looked for a sub for that at one point and no one made it and their power steering fluid
 

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Cheapest 2 places I have found for Honda ATF is eBay or Amazon.

As stated Honda trans can be picky about fluid. Also on this model, that fluid is also the transfer case fluid as the transfer case is part of the transmission.

Also this is very easy to do yourself. Many how to change Honda trans fluid vids on Youtube. Just make sure you put the same amount in as you just took out. I use an empty qt bottle and dump the drain pan in to that to measure.


OP, has the "D" light on the dash been flashing/blinking at all? If so it is throwing a code and it should be read as it may point you in the direction of what is wrong.
 

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Cheapest 2 places I have found for Honda ATF is eBay or Amazon.

As stated Honda trans can be picky about fluid. Also on this model, that fluid is also the transfer case fluid as the transfer case is part of the transmission.

Also this is very easy to do yourself. Many how to change Honda trans fluid vids on Youtube. Just make sure you put the same amount in as you just took out. I use an empty qt bottle and dump the drain pan in to that to measure.


OP, has the "D" light on the dash been flashing/blinking at all? If so it is throwing a code and it should be read as it may point you in the direction of what is wrong.


I did get the flashing D light. I believe the car went into limp mode as I was loosing tranny fluid. I couldn't accelerate any faster than 30-40mph and then eventually as all of the fluid drained, I couldn't accelerate at all. When this happened, I got the CEL with the code P0730 ( Incorrect gear ratio). I assumed it threw this code because their was no tranny fluid. I since have cleared the code and it has not went on since. I have read that this code is a "Tranny Killer" code but I have also read that its a general tranny code.
 

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Use Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf available from WalMart at around $18/gal jug.
The hardest part of doing a drain and fill is the fill.
After you drain it (don't even have to jack the crv up) and fill it, drive until the engine and tranny fluid are up to operating temp (going through all the gears, inc overdrive ie:torque converter lockup, and reverse) and then do the drain and fill again.
A minimum of 3 drain and fills are required. Each drain and fill is aprox 3.5 qts, but if you want to get by with less, only put 3 qts in between drain and fills (make sure the atf level is at least close to the bottom mark on the atf dipstick).
When you do the last drain and fill, make sure the atf is very near the upper mark on its dipstick and check it again after it has been driven awhile.
Then again, it sounds like you pushed it after the leak happened and may have done considerable damage to the clutches, etc. Still, less than a $60 investment is not much considering how much it will cost to replace the tranny or the vehicle.
Buffalo4
 

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Use Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf available from WalMart at around $18/gal jug.
The hardest part of doing a drain and fill is the fill.
After you drain it (don't even have to jack the crv up) and fill it, drive until the engine and tranny fluid are up to operating temp (going through all the gears, inc overdrive ie:torque converter lockup, and reverse) and then do the drain and fill again.
A minimum of 3 drain and fills are required. Each drain and fill is aprox 3.5 qts, but if you want to get by with less, only put 3 qts in between drain and fills (make sure the atf level is at least close to the bottom mark on the atf dipstick).
When you do the last drain and fill, make sure the atf is very near the upper mark on its dipstick and check it again after it has been driven awhile.
Then again, it sounds like you pushed it after the leak happened and may have done considerable damage to the clutches, etc. Still, less than a $60 investment is not much considering how much it will cost to replace the tranny or the vehicle.
Buffalo4
That is the tranny oil that I used. I just can't imagine Honda Genuine fluid making THAT much of a difference.
 

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That is the tranny oil that I used. I just can't imagine Honda Genuine fluid making THAT much of a difference.
The manual clearly states you must use Honda oil! I'm going too bet you get the right Oil in there (3x), and all will be happy again!
 

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The manual clearly states you must use Honda oil! I'm going too bet you get the right Oil in there (3x), and all will be happy again!
It appears that this is going to be my only option. As soon as I get the money, I will report back with my results.
 

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Nonsense on only using Honda ATF. Honda Z-1 atf is recommended for that vehicle and you would have to be crazy to use it, unless that was all that was available. Honda DW-1 is fine, but so is the Valvoline product and Amsoil and others, and probably even better than DW-1 and certainly much better than Z-1.
Buffalo4
PS: Rickman,I'll bet you pushed only Z-1, didn't you, before DW-1 came out. :(
 

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I used Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic multi Vehicle ATF DEX/MERC.

I have read numerous threads were people used the wrong fluid, however, I have yet to read a thread where someone used the wrong thread, experienced a problem, and then fixed the problem with Honda Genuine fluid.
 

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Reread post # 7.
You never said what brand of ATF the mechanic put in it when you had it towed and he replaced the hose.
I would do a minimum of 3 drain and fills with the Valvoline stuff or equivalent, preferably 4 just to make sure all the atf is good. Does the atf smell burnt and is it clear and reddish and not brown or black?
For the price of 3 gal of the Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc atf at Walmart or similar, why take a chance. It is very easy to do.
Buffalo4
PS: For twice the price you can use Honda DW-1 also. It has an excellent reputation, not like the Honda Z-1 which many used to swear was the ONLY atf for their crvs, or you would shorten the life of the tranny.
 

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Im a firm believer in Honda OEM trans fluid. In the manual it even states that other stuff can be used, "temporarily" but is to be changed out with Honda trans fluid as soon as possible.

Z-1 was recommended by Honda back when the vehicle came out but good luck finding it as Honda replaced it with DW-1 for all auto trans a few years back, but after the vehicle and manual was produced.

Having work for Honda, I have seen many times non factory stuff give problems despite being "new". Spark plugs were a huge problem. People would bring the vehicle in Monday morning with a check engine lamp on saying they did a tune up over the weekend and then it came on. 9 out of 10 times we would just replace the plugs with what Honda "recommends", NGK, and no more issues.

Same can be said for trannys, people would change the fluid on their vehicle, as it so easy compared to many other makes and models out there, and would use whatever the parts store had. Then the problems would start.

With the OP, wanting to try to save his tranny and not have to replace it I'd say to get all Honda OEM fluid in it and hope it takes care of the problem. He already has aftermarket stuff in there and he has a problem. So why change it with more aftermarket fluid?

To me that would be the waste of time and money.

OP, I really do hope the is turns out the way you want but im not gonna hold my breath.
 

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He never stated how much aftermarket atf was in there. He only stated that he added a qt of Valvoline.
He also just bought it a few months ago and probably doesn't know what kind of atf was in there or how long it was in there.
Honda Z-1 was like a death knoll for the Odys and most of the 'gurus' in the Odyclub forum preached that it was the ONLY atf to use or you were flirting with tranny failure (turns out the early Ody trannies were pretty poor,overall, and the Z-1 just KILLED them earlier). The DW-1 seems to be excellent atf for Hondas.
The important thing is that he does at least a 3x drain and fill with a compatible atf, and Valvoline is one of the best.

You should be a politician the way you twist things around:

"He already has aftermarket stuff in there and he has a problem. So why change it with more aftermarket fluid?" ???????

Were you a salesman at a Honda dealer? :eek:
Buffalo4

PS: I also hope the tranny is not trashed.
 
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