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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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Wow badass. Man its pricey. Pretty sure you can easily fit an amp that will fit underneath the drivers seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would the amp overheat if it's in the spare tire area? I'd like to keep the passenger compartment as clear as possible.

In their installation manual JL Audio recommends their XD300/1 amp:

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/SB_H_CRV2_MAN.pdf?1393655522

I guess I should start reading up on amps. I want this baby to sound as nice as possible.

Heck, at the bottom of their installation manual they mention replacement speakers for the rest of the stereo, might look into that in the future.

For now, I just want to get that Kicker P10 out of the way so I can start using the cargo area (the reason I bought the CR-V instead of a sedan/coupe). :)

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Personally I don't think paying 2% of the price of the car on a significant subwoofer upgrade is overpriced. :) Some folks spend money on wheels to impress folks, I prefer to spend it on making my ride more enjoyable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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I love the looks of this sub, and I'm sure the sound quality is top notch, but OUCH! that price is outrageous! They have a stealth box for the 3rd gen CR-V too. For that price, I'd probably just buy the same sealed driver and either make my own low profile box or just buy a pre-fab sealed box designed for the driver. It would save $200-$300, but wouldn't be as factory clean. I can't justify that price when half of the price is solely going towards cosmetics.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree, it is a bit steep, but I guess it comes down to personal values. I know JL Audio tunes each of their Stealthbox models for the specific model car. I've seen/heard different Stealthbox models in their respective cars, and the sound is incredible.

For me its more than just visual design, where it matches the interior and is sculpted to fit in the perfect location, out of the way.

Its also about their tuned audio design, and the support provided by JL Audio. For me, I'm happy to spend a few hundred extra to get this. :)
 

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I'm sure we have all spent too much on something one time or another. Nothing wrong with that. Good for you Don, bet it will sound awesome.

Saying that, you could get better or just as good speakers for cheaper price for the other doors, as they are not as custom as that box! Also you usually don't even hear the rear passenger speakers since your front speakers are closer to you, so you could save on buying those too.

Good luck with the amp install. Guess it will be under a seat or in the spare tire area.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)

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I agree the price hurts. But ...my priorities are being able to maintain maximum usable cargo space and having quality low frequency performance. I've been making due with a JL Microsub 6" for a while. It's Ok, but it bottoms out if you want to push it. So a 10" is optimal in that space. to me, I'm gonna have the car for a long time, so it will be money I will forget about after a while. Already upgraded my front stage to nice Kevlar Focal Components and a JL Audio 400.4 amp (and Audio Control LC6i feeing my factory deck signal to the amp)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree the price hurts. But ...my priorities are being able to maintain maximum usable cargo space and having quality low frequency performance. I've been making due with a JL Microsub 6" for a while. It's Ok, but it bottoms out if you want to push it. So a 10" is optimal in that space. to me, I'm gonna have the car for a long time, so it will be money I will forget about after a while. Already upgraded my front stage to nice Kevlar Focal Components and a JL Audio 400.4 amp (and Audio Control LC6i feeing my factory deck signal to the amp)
Each Stealthbox is tuned for the model car. The enclosure size, shape and install location. And yea, out of the way. :)
 

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Update?

Looking for any updates on this thread. I have a brand new 2015 CR-V EX-L. Been a Toyota family with the butt-kicking JBL audio in my van and my wife's Camry. However, it was time to downsize the van, and I love my CR-V so much that I left Toyota. CR-V is a much nicer and more responsive ride than RAV 4, and much better looking too!

Anyway, anyone reading this thread knows that one of Honda's many strong points is not audio! I temporarily connected the CR-V sub out directly to a Polk Audio 10" non-powered sub. Barely any difference. The sub circuit in Honda defies logic.

As mentioned earlier in the thread, I am willing to spend the money for a stealth installation, given that I will have this CR-V a long time. I was willing to pay the premium for the JBL had I bought another Toyota, so the cost is irrelevant given the lower cost of my CR-V.

Questions:

Do you derive the audio feed from the main speakers or the sub feed?

Where do you physically tap in?

Where to locate the amp and adapters?

Does an external amp work seamlessly with the OEM system - that is, no turn on/turn off pops or clicks, background noise, battery draining, etc?

I like decent bass, but am far from my teenage years. Is the sound of the Stealth well balanced to pop/rock/jazz music, or any issues with finding the right balance? I do not like the idea of constantly tweaking a sub control.

Thanks!
 

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I have the JL Audio stealth sub in the 2012 EX (no factory sub). I tapped into the front speaker wires behind the head unit (it is really easy to pull out the head units on these vehicles). I have my amp under the passenger seat (you would have to remove the factory sub to do this). There is very little room under driver's seat due to the extra seat adjustment mechanisms, but one of the new class-D micro amps might work there as well. I used the JL Cleansweep to flatten the factory response but I replaced and amped all the speakers. Cleansweep would be overkill for sub only.

If you really want good low end from the factory system you will need a bass-restore LOC, simple DSP or EQ as the factory system rolls-off pretty fast on the low end. Look at the AudioControl LC2-1 for a simple LOC with bass-restore.

Your system is amplified so you might want to tap into the output of the factory amplifier. You should be able use front channels or sub out.
 

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If you really want good low end from the factory system you will need a bass-restore LOC, simple DSP or EQ as the factory system rolls-off pretty fast on the low end. Look at the AudioControl LC2-1 for a simple LOC with bass-restore.

Your system is amplified so you might want to tap into the output of the factory amplifier. You should be able use front channels or sub out.
Thanks, the LC2-1 is already on my shopping list, as is the JX250/1 mono sub amp. I am OK with the overall (non-bass) quality of the factory speakers for now, just need some bass!

Tim
 
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