[SadPotato]

I just got a 2000 CR-V EX Automatic with 180k miles on it for $850. It has quite a bit external body damage, but the car drives great overall. There are a bunch of issues I am able to fix, but there are some smaller issues that I don't know how to tackle.
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On the gauge cluster, the DRIVE gear light does not work, but all the others work fine.

The driver side map light does not work (how do you access the bulbs?)

When turning on the car, for about half of a second when it starts, I can hear a belt squeal, but it stops after that.

The driver side door does not lock automatically, and makes a loud buzzing noise when locking (I think this is the door lock actuator?)

The wiper fluid reservoir is cracked on the top (Can i just make my own lid for it, instead of buying a whole new reservoir?)

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Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

 

[kloker]

Welcome to the forum! I highly recommend you read your owner's manual. If you don't have one you can download one. Also, get yourself a factory service manual. Mine has paid for itself quickly. Try eBay for that. Also, look at YouTube for videos on how to fix some of your specific issues. On the gauge cluster light, that may be a replacement bulb or it might require some soldering. The map light cover pops off for bulb replacement, just be sure to pry it off gently so as to not break it. On the belt issue, it may need a belt, or it could be the belt tensioner/pulley. Pull the door panel and check all the linkage rods to see if they are rusted or need lubrication or straightening, a good reason for that factory service manual, which also includes extensive troubleshooting sections for these issues. Try a wrecking yard for that reservoir lid. Keep us posted on your adventures, and enjoy your CR-V!

 

[sunypnw]

For the Wiper Fluid Reservoir, I used aluminum foil and a rubber band for a cover/Cap, worked just fine

 

[papa_g]

I just got a 2000 CR-V EX Automatic with 180k miles on it for $850. It has quite a bit external body damage, but the car drives great overall....

On the gauge cluster, the DRIVE gear light does not work, but all the others work fine.

The driver side map light does not work (how do you access the bulbs?)

When turning on the car, for about half of a second when it starts, I can hear a belt squeal, but it stops after that.

The driver side door does not lock automatically, and makes a loud buzzing noise when locking (I think this is the door lock actuator?)

First of all, $850 is a steal. I would make sure I change ALL the fluids, starting with the transmission, engine oil, coolant, and working your way through rear diff, power steering, brake. Try to use only genuine Honda, or Honda approved for coolant, ATF, power steering, and rear diff. I got mine with almost 220k miles for $1700. Has a little bit of external damage, but overall very clean, and it’s the SE model with leather seats.

I actually had a lot of the problems you were describing. The ‘D’ light needs to be sourced through your local Honda dealership. I could not find a new bulb anywhere else. You could also just replace it with the D1 or D2 bulb if you don’t care that much.
Dome or map lights can be accessed with a trim tool, or flat head screwdriver.
Belt squeal means it’s slipping, and probably needs to be replaced. You could try some spray belt conditioner, but that’s a bandaid fix.
You’re right about the door lock actuator. Pretty easy repair. You buy a cheap one online for like $10 on eBay. That’s what I did.

Check out garage built Hondas on YouTube. The guy has an entire section devoted to repairing his gen1 crv. Very helpful. But of course, the helms manual is the best resource.



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[racoon]

Along with what papa_g suggested, have the engine valves adjusted. Its something the 2001 and earlier CR-Vs need to have done every 30,000 miles.

 

[papa_g]

Along with what papa_g suggested, have the engine valves adjusted. Its something the 2001 and earlier CR-Vs need to have done every 30,000 miles.

^this


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[Lochinvar]

Make sure you get that D light working. The D (or D4 in 97/98 cars) is the transmission's equivalent of a check engine light.