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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up an 03 and it has a few quirks I need to sort out.

Driver door lock won't engage with key or FOB, and because of this, nothing opens with the remote and I have to use the key stubbornly in the rear door to open it that way. Is this a common issue?

Also the rear driver window doesn't roll down, but I don't know if it's a motor problem or not because they had a baby screen thing on there and it's stuck in the seal at the top.

Also the glove box won't unlock. Basically everything the key should use doesn't work well except the ignition haha. How do you open the glovebox without the key?
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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As always, whenever we buy used we are inheriting the seller's problems. Then the fun begins, eh? I recommend getting a factory service manual, it will come in handy with the troubleshooting it contains. I'd say you have to kind of suss out what led up to this situation. Could be the previous owner had to replace the ignition lock when the key broke off in it. They had to make a new key too. That new key may fit the ignition lock perfectly but not the door locks or glove box. There is also the possibility that the glove box door was broken and replaced, but the lock not changed. I would just take the car to a locksmith. He should be able to match up a key that works in all the doors, then make modifications to the ignition and glove box locks to make everything work on one key. Something approximating that. He will know what to do. It's also possible the driver's door lock actuator is bad and needs replacement. On the rear window, I'd say the additional resistance caused by the baby screen over time may have caused the window motor to burn out. First I'd remove the obstacle screen stuff, then test. If that doesn't work, try hot-wiring the motor to see if it works. If it does, it could be a wiring or switch problem or fuse. Otherwise it's likely the motor. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No it's a black key. I was pricing things out here. Ebay has cylinder/key sets that you swap your chip into. I only have one key so I won't be able to take advantage of the second key kip space. But they come with both cylinders and ignition for like 30 bucks. No set I've found has the rear hatch and glove box with it. I can look up those part numbers separately which I've done, but I'm assuming someone will have to match that lock.

For the driver door, am I right in assuming it to be the actuator since I hear it shuttering when I use the FOB? If so, that's a quick $30 part or cheaper depending on source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So far I can't get either the driver or passenger door to unlock with the key. The rear hatch can but even that is a pain in the behind. Then I climb through and unlock one door. When locking them, the power lock switch doesn't engage the drivers door, but closing the door and using the FOB does very well. And also, when it's open, you can't press down the lock manually very well on the driver side. What's the deal with that?
 

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So far I can't get either the driver or passenger door to unlock with the key. The rear hatch can but even that is a pain in the behind. Then I climb through and unlock one door. When locking them, the power lock switch doesn't engage the drivers door, but closing the door and using the FOB does very well. And also, when it's open, you can't press down the lock manually very well on the driver side. What's the deal with that?
It sounds to me like you have two separate problems. #1 is the driver's door power door lock actuator malfunctioning. This will cause the balky operation of both power and manual locking and unlocking. It cannot be repaired and will likely need replacement. About $65 for the part. A really fun job, especially if you like standing sort of on your head with both hands shoved down into a space not big enough for one while trying to unhook and hook linkage rods and other parts, all while being unable to see what you are doing because your hands are in the way.

#2 is the key issue. As I said above, it sounds like your locks don't all match the key you have, so either one or more of them was changed, or the original key was lost and a new one made that doesn't quite fit right. Or, it's possible your key is bent and you can't tell, but it's enough to cause the issue. I suspect you will need a locksmith for that. This will likely be the more expensive of the fixes, but while you're at it I'd make sure I ended up with two keys that work in all locks. It's possible that at some time in the past, the ignition lock, and/or any number of other locks could have been replaced. Maybe the car was damaged being broken into, or from an attempt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This^^^
I ordered an actuator and will do that this weekend. Locksmith told me the same thing suspecting a key or changed cylinder at some point. I can't get the key code from the dealer yet because I have to go in person, so first registration, then dealer, then locksmith consult. Ugh...what a pain in the butt, but it was cheap.im annoyed I didn't check the locks specifically when I saw it. I always focus on engine, linkage parts, windows, etc
 
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