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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just purchased a 2007 Honda CR-V EX-L and have encountered a problem with the keyless entry remote. I replaced the battery and when I first get out of the car the lock/unlock functions perfectly.

However, if I wait 5 minutes or longer then when I go to open the door nothing works...it does not lock, does not unlock, nothing until I put the key back in the ignition and then everything works again.

Any ideas on why it seems to be losing the code?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Everything in Moderation
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How does the automatic interior light control work? (Should be bright when door closed, not locked, then after a minute or two ... dim then extinguish) I'm thinking something (like a marginally operative door switch) is tricking the car into staying 'alive'.

Another possibility is a weak main battery. Check the electrolyte inside it, top up with distilled water if low. If there is any indicator that it is more than 5 years old, Hmmm...just replace it.

If your locking system has been 'corrupted' by low voltage, disconnecting the - black ground wire at the battery can reset things. (Check if you need a radio code first!)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How does the automatic interior light control work? (Should be bright when door closed, not locked, then after a minute or two ... dim then extinguish) I'm thinking something (like a marginally operative door switch) is tricking the car into staying 'alive'.

Another possibility is a weak main battery. Check the electrolyte inside it, top up with distilled water if low. If there is any indicator that it is more than 5 years old, Hmmm...just replace it.

If your locking system has been 'corrupted' by low voltage, disconnecting the - black ground wire at the battery can reset things. (Check if you need a radio code first!)
Interior dome light works like you described it should....bright when I open the door, dims slightly when I close the door and goes out completely in approximately 1 minute.

Vehicle starts right up but It could still be the battery...not sure how old it really is but it LOOKS old. There is no information on the top other than "Square Deal" which is a battery place in Tampa Florida and I can make out the word Marine on the sticker under the battery hold down bar. May have to take the time to take it out and see if there is more information on the side of it.

The radio does need a code and I have it. Would I just unhook the negative battery cable, wait a couple minutes and then hook it back up to reset the locking system?
 

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Everything in Moderation
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Would I just unhook the negative battery cable, wait a couple minutes and then hook it back up to reset the locking system?
Fifteen minutes is more like it.

Just before reconnecting, touch the (disconnected) black cable to the red + terminal for a few seconds. This will dissipate any residual memory FOR SURE.

If you have a multimeter with a PEAK HOLD feature, set it for (-) (minus) and start the car. Tell us what the low voltage is under that heavy demand.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fifteen minutes is more like it.

Just before reconnecting, touch the (disconnected) black cable to the red + terminal for a few seconds. This will dissipate any residual memory FOR SURE.

If you have a multimeter with a PEAK HOLD feature, set it for (-) (minus) and start the car. Tell us what the low voltage is under that heavy demand.
Okay, thank you.

I will try that when I get the time, possibly as soon as tomorrow. I only have a cheap $5 multimeter and I don't think it has the peak hold feature.

I ordered a new FOB that I get tomorrow so I will program that to the car and see if it holds the code. If it does then it means the fob that came with the vehicle is broken or damaged and problem solved. If it doesn't hold the code then I will have to look deeper starting with the locking system reset.

Either way I will post the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Unfortunately, none of what I tried worked.

The new FOB programmed and worked as I left the car but then just like the other one it would not open or lock the car after 15 minutes.

I unhooked both the positive and negative battery cable and left them off for 30 minutes and then reattached. Same thing...FOB remotes would program and work upon exiting the vehicle but 15 minutes later they would not unlock or lock the car. (Ugh...reading this step again from Carbuff2 I just realized I did not touch black battery cable to positive post before reattaching...will do that tomorrow or Saturday)

Even though the car was starting fine I went ahead and purchased a brand new 5 year battery and installed it however that also did not solve my problem.

I also tried a suggestion I found on the internet where it said to program the FOB remotes and then not use them to lock or unlock for 10 minutes. I tried that to no avail.

One interesting thing that did happen is that I keep trying to unlock the car every time I go to drive it and about the 30th time doing that it actually unlocked the vehicle then went back to not unlocking it. Not sure that means anything but I just found it interesting.

I hate the thought of taking it to the dealer to solve the problem because they charge so much but it also defeats the purpose of buying a car with a FOB remote if it does not work so I may have to bite the bullet.

Thank you all for responding to my posts. If anyone has any other ideas let me know.
 

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You didn't mention whether BOTH remote fobs have the same issue?

If the answer is YES, perhaps there is something in the car's reception module...let the dealer diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You didn't mention whether BOTH remote fobs have the same issue?

If the answer is YES, perhaps there is something in the car's reception module...let the dealer diagnose.
Yes, both the new and the old remotes lose the code after a period of time. Occasionally the remote works but most of the time it doesn't.

I guess I will have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer or live without remote entry.

Thanks for the all the replies.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So an interesting update to my issue....

The TPMS light (not the low tire indicator light) stayed on and after researching the issue I determined at least one of the sensors was bad so I decided to replace all 4. I had the local tire place install them Saturday and shortly after installation the TPMS light went out.

Now here is the interesting part....since I replaced the TPMS sensors the keyless entry remote now works roughly 60% of the time.

Not sure what the correlation is or if there is a correlation but thought I would share.

I may try removing the negative battery cable again and leaving it off for 15 minutes then touching it to the positive and see if that changes anything.

Update 1.30.20: Okay so after a day or two it quit working again so I did some further research on TPMS interference and came across a post on Toyota's about resetting the ECM after the TPMS system was fixed. For Toyota it said to manually insert the key and unlock then lock three times in a row. I figured what the heck and tried it on my Honda CR-V. First time I tried it it did not work but I did it a second time and my remote has been working flawlessly since then. No idea if the unlock/lock X 3 was the key or if the system just finally cleared the errors itself after the TPMS system was fixed but either way keyless entry is now working like it should.

Update 2.01.20: Well it worked for about 10 days and now it is not working again. Will work right after locking it but hit and miss on if it works 15+ minutes or longer later.
 
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