[HerrKaLeun]

I have a 2013 LX and the light just sucks both from the amount and the distribution. I replace the halogen bulbs every 2-3 years.

I saw there are LED bulbs to install. I found some (can't post links yet) and ebay and other sources give me many options. However, i know many of the cheap ones are not suitable and don't have good light distribution (after all, the headlight is designed for a halogen bulb with more uniform 360° light).

I know blinkers likely need the resistor, but it doesn't seem the non-blinking lights need that.

My goal is more light, and at least same light distribution, or better one. Based on how bad the OEM light is, improvement should be easily achieved.

What are good LEd bulbs that don't damage anything and have good light? i don't want to pay a lot, but want something decent.
What colors are good? I think at night higher colors are better, like 5000K or more. but is there a maximum I should select?
LED dissipate heat at the sink, is there a problem with that being hot int he engine compartment (or for the plastic of the headlight)?

If this is successful, I wouldn't mind to replace other lights if they are reasonable. but for now the headlights are my main problem.

Thanks, in advance.

 

[Fibber2]

I'm normally the first one up on the soap box screaming "DON'T DO IT! While I'd never call myself an expert in lighting, anyone who understands illumination knows what happens when you put a HID or LED emitter where a 360' point source should be. And yet I keep coming back to this site and wondering if it's worth $30 in the name of Science! A number of folks on a Toyota board that also use H4 single low/high bulbs swear by these.

The specs are totally bogus - obviously written by monkeys with typewriters, and the assembly of random words meant to impress those that know nothing about the subject. And yet here we are giving it airtime.... Want to be the guinea pig and report back?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-9003-OS...rsion-Lamp-Bulbs-Kit-/272885775321?rmvSB=true

 

[HerrKaLeun]

I was looking for something more substantial. At least there should be a manufacturer website with actual data. Thanks anyway, I appreciate it.

Someone who knows a lot (but has no CRV) recommended the IPF 341HLB (sorry, still no link). They cost $160 from Japan ($230 in the US). They have really good data on the website with actual testing. while i didn't plan on spending that much, i was planning to get something really good.

But I'm not sure if they will really fit and was hoping someone with a CRV used them or something similar good. It is a bit expensive to just order and try

Ideally they also have NO external driver.

 

[HerrKaLeun]

now I'm privileged enough to post links:
IPF 341HLB

Something like that, or some insight if someone installed this specific LEd in an CRV would be good to know.

 

[HerrKaLeun]

Oh, I came across a CRV specific problem. teh Daylight running Light is done with the normal H4 bulb by reducing voltage by PWM.
this video a around 22 minutes shows the LED flickering with the PWM for DLR.
his solution is to disable DLR, but i like to have DLR.

It is possible some LED drivers are good enough to deal with that, but I wouldn't bet on that.

so did someone install LED and come up with a solution for the DLR?

(the car industry is really behind the curve here, my bicycle with battery lights ahs more light than cars with H4, just saying)

 

[Fibber2]

Correct on the DRL situation. The LED discussion happened on a Toyota Sienna van board, brought over by a member who also is on a Tundra truck board. We were way off topic, but I mentioned that the CR-V used the high beam for DRL (as I think does the Tundra also), and asked how they worked with the reduced voltage. Some Toyota products use a voltage divider, so have true 6v DC, others use PWM to attain 6v. He never really answered.

A basic LED flashlight will have reduced brightness at reduced voltage. As headlight bulbs advertise being able to handle a wide voltage range, one must assume they employ buck-boost or similar regulators. So what happens when you throw 6v at them? I'd think it would be below the minimum threshold, and they wouldn't light at all. But who knows.... And agree, I would not intentionally disable the DRL feature. I've even added it to past vehicles that had the capability built in but it wasn't invoked.

 

[HerrKaLeun]

Correct on the DRL situation. The LED discussion happened on a Toyota Sienna van board, brought over by a member who also is on a Tundra truck board. We were way off topic, but I mentioned that the CR-V used the high beam for DRL (as I think does the Tundra also), and asked how they worked with the reduced voltage. Some Toyota products use a voltage divider, so have true 6v DC, others use PWM to attain 6v. He never really answered.

A basic LED flashlight will have reduced brightness at reduced voltage. As headlight bulbs advertise being able to handle a wide voltage range, one must assume they employ buck-boost or similar regulators. So what happens when you throw 6v at them? I'd think it would be below the minimum threshold, and they wouldn't light at all. But who knows.... And agree, I would not intentionally disable the DRL feature. I've even added it to past vehicles that had the capability built in but it wasn't invoked.

Yesh, i don't want to add safety by adding LED at eh cost of taking away safety by disabling DRL. normal LED not built to dim that have wide-range-voltage-input typically increase current when voltage drops. the driver basically is a power supply that produces 1.5V 9or whatever voltage the LED actually needs). It does so out of whatever you actual source is (120-277V AC in buildings, 12V inc ar and so on). the IPF bulbs above use 25W., so at 12V the driver draws a bit over 2A. If it had a cut-off of 6V, it would draw 4a at 6V and shut off below (just made up numbers to show my point). that is, unless the driver is made to adjsut the current to LED based on input voltage (similar to a halogen etc.). which is exactly what i don't know how this behaves, but know cheaper LEd just cant'deal with that and flicker or may shut off.

I read about some resistor DRL decoders that deal with that, but have no specific product and no idea what would be required with the Honda CRV DRL and those specific bulbs. if someone could point me int he right direction for such, that would be great.
I'm willing to buy the bulbs and try them, and add a decoder if needed... but prefer to have that product already known before i start with the bulbs.

 

[Tigris99]

Spend $45 on good standard headlight bulbs. Also may help to aim them better.

I know ppl with LED headlight bulbs and they LOOK bright. But my ZXE bulbs are as bright or brighter without all the extra BS, messed up beam coverage etc. Not to mention I laugh my ass off when one tells me "I got pulled over cause of my headlights". Reason why they all say "for offroad use only" and none will ever say SAE complaint for low beam. Only high beam.

For LED bulbs you need headlights that are designed for them.

Also a quick side note, you DO NOT need a resistor for turn signal led bulbs. They just flash faster is all. Nothing wrong with it, actually a bit more attention grabbing as EVERY SINGLE BULB except my high/low headlight bulbs are LED in my CRV. Fog lights to interior and dash, all converted to LED. After seeing what a nice set of 9006 LEDs did to my fog light beam pattern no way in hell I would do that to my headlights.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[HerrKaLeun]

Spend $45 on good standard headlight bulbs. Also may help to aim them better.

I know ppl with LED headlight bulbs and they LOOK bright. But my ZXE bulbs are as bright or brighter without all the extra BS, messed up beam coverage etc. Not to mention I laugh my ass off when one tells me "I got pulled over cause of my headlights". Reason why they all say "for offroad use only" and none will ever say SAE complaint for low beam. Only high beam.

For LED bulbs you need headlights that are designed for them.

Also a quick side note, you DO NOT need a resistor for turn signal led bulbs. They just flash faster is all. Nothing wrong with it, actually a bit more attention grabbing as EVERY SINGLE BULB except my high/low headlight bulbs are LED in my CRV. Fog lights to interior and dash, all converted to LED. After seeing what a nice set of 9006 LEDs did to my fog light beam pattern no way in hell I would do that to my headlights.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

good points. do you mean these Sylvania ZXE? Are they like real xenon, or just a fake xenon? Do you have the Ultra or the regular? and how would you compare them tos tandard bulbs in terms of light output, like 2x, 3x??

They don't show a spec sheet or actual data, which is concerning.

 

[Fibber2]

I think we all agree - LED replacements are't yet ready for prime time.

There once was an excellent Osram bulb available for this application (the Rallye Series 64205 H4) , but unfortunately it's no longer in production. It was about a 15% wattage boost, but put out nearly 25% more real world usable illumination. A lot of good things were said about it on other forums where the (IMHO terrible...) H4 is used.

 

[HerrKaLeun]

I researched more and on another forum (actually Landcruiser or some sort) those IPF were raved about and allegedly also work with DRL (at least with whatever low-voltage system the cruisers use).

anyone has used Tail/brake light LED bulbs? i see many (even sylvania) say "off road only"
I assume the blinker bulbs are difficult since it needs a resistor.

 

[Tigris99]

ZXE just know they were the most expensive set and would say around 2.5x brighter than their normal headlight bulb.

YOU DO NOT NEED A RESISTOR FOR LED TURN SIGNAL BULBS. Your literally defeating one of the most important factors of LEDs. Efficiency. Ya your flash is a lot faster but who cares, actually safer that way anyway (much more attention grabbing).

Sylvania anything LED except for basic running lights and small bulbs (like interior) suck for the price. They are OK for CRV rear turn signal since its not on unless flashing. I bought chinese amber ones for the front and red for the rear brake lights. Not overly bright at all, but much brighter especially when flashing or on the breaks.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[HerrKaLeun]

So I got my LED bulbs and figured out how to install them (even with Japanese manual). Only problem is, it seems I need to remove or move forward the headlight to physically move the longer bulb in. It looks like it will fit once the bulb is installed, but the actual installation needs more clearance. So, i foudn out how to do that once i actually find out how to do it....

Does anyone have an idea how to easily remove the headlight (or at least get it loose enough to rotate it up to get my bulbs in)? I only saw 2010 CRV videos that had the fascia removed for complete headlight replacement . I'm hoping to not have to do that. Oh, and there are tons of videos how to replace the bulb.... i thought the honda manual is pretty clear on that and no vide needed

I tried them out and DRL seems to work!

 

[Tigris99]

Taking the bumper covers off SUVs is a few minute job. If headlight assembly has to move then it has to come off. Trying to force it you will only break the headlight.

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[Fibber2]

I tried them out and DRL seems to work!

At the proper reduced output, or a full high beam brightness? What we DON'T want to do is blind oncoming traffic at dusk with a full brightness high beam!

 

[FLCRV]

Spend $45 on good standard headlight bulbs. Also may help to aim them better.

I know ppl with LED headlight bulbs and they LOOK bright. But my ZXE bulbs are as bright or brighter without all the extra BS, messed up beam coverage etc. Not to mention I laugh my ass off when one tells me "I got pulled over cause of my headlights". Reason why they all say "for offroad use only" and none will ever say SAE complaint for low beam. Only high beam.

For LED bulbs you need headlights that are designed for them.

Also a quick side note, you DO NOT need a resistor for turn signal led bulbs. They just flash faster is all. Nothing wrong with it, actually a bit more attention grabbing as EVERY SINGLE BULB except my high/low headlight bulbs are LED in my CRV. Fog lights to interior and dash, all converted to LED. After seeing what a nice set of 9006 LEDs did to my fog light beam pattern no way in hell I would do that to my headlights.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

What have you found out about how long they last.

 

[HerrKaLeun]

I tried them out and DRL seems to work!

At the proper reduced output, or a full high beam brightness? What we DON'T want to do is blind oncoming traffic at dusk with a full brightness high beam!

They were significantly dimmer when in DRL mode. Hard to tell by how much since i had them outside the headlight, but maybe half or less as bright. Also no Flicker. So they seem to have built them to have lower output at lower voltage.

 

[Fibber2]

Sounds positive! Was the engine running when you did this eval?

 

[Fibber2]

Which set did you finally select, vendor & price?

 

[HerrKaLeun]

Sounds positive! Was the engine running when you did this eval?

No, just on battery so far.

Which set did you finally select, vendor & price?

$168 shipped. On the top right you can select language and you can select a foreign account. Actual shipping was only 3 days. They are $230 on the US amazon site. I just want to emphasize these are not comparable to the cheap crap that gives LED lights a bad rep. I'm very hopeful it will be worth the pain.