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Discussion Starter #1
Hi


2011 CRV EX

One of the w5w side light rear bulbs keeps going off so I thought being as Im going to take the lights off to change the bulbs I may as well use led bulbs.

Now the w5w side lights seems simple enough , so does the dual filament brake bulb.

2 things... If i change the rear indicator bulbs to led but not the front or side bulbs (indicators) will they hyper flash

second things...I dont want an imbalance when the side light is on and brakes off between the half power in the brake led and the led w5w...if that makes sense?

any ideas anyone?
 

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2 things... If i change the rear indicator bulbs to led but not the front or side bulbs (indicators) will they hyper flash
You either need CANBUS/Error free LED (Yellow) bulbs, or ones that have the flash cancellation built-in.

.I dont want an imbalance when the side light is on and brakes off between the half power in the brake led and the led w5w...if that makes sense?
Not sure I understand this - the power source is still the same so when you depress the brake pedal the brake light will illuminate brighter than the stock/standard tail light anyway. All dependant on the bulbs you use though.

Ebay is awash with CREE LED bulbs. I had my 2010 Accord decked out with CREE LED bulbs all round and inside. Pricey, but they are definitely worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok Im going to try them tmrw...I was just thinking wil the side lights match the brightness of the brake light on half brightness

will I be able to get away with changing the rear 2 indicator bulbs to led but leaving the rest as halogen and not get hyper flashing>?
 

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will I be able to get away with changing the rear 2 indicator bulbs to led but leaving the rest as halogen and not get hyper flashing>?
Depends on whether the bulbs you use are CANBUS/Error-free or have the flash cancelling built-in. Sorry I cant be of more specific help - so many competing LED bulbs out there to choose from!
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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The hyper-flashing is a warning indicator built in to the system to tell you when you have a bulb out. It does this by detecting how much power is being used. If the power consumption drops below the minimum, the fast flashing occurs. The fact that the LED bulbs use less power is why they trip this. So, the solution is to use the error-free bulbs DK mentions, which add resistors to match the resistance without the need to use more power. This fools the system into thinking all the bulbs are not only working but also at the proper rating. When it then does not detect a problem, the hyper-flashing will not happen. In the old days, when all this was built into a free-standing plug-in flasher, you could just change that out. But now that the mechanism is built into the control module, that separate flasher no longer exists, so the solution is to use those bulbs that have the built-in resistors.
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Makes a lot of sense now... OK I changed the top side light to a halogen bright w5w bulb
then changed the brake bulbs to LED dual brightness...

this is the side lights only... I changed the top brake light to led as well but even though it was a bright led bulb,, top brake isnt that noticeable, its like the red cover is very thick...

number plate I changed the whole light unit not just the bulbs....so much better than before... brake lights have much quicker response.....
Now I have to do the indicators too.... easy enough ...

Just the front fogs. Im itching to change them but seems a bit of a headache...might ask the garage to do it when it goes for MOT
 

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Nice and bright!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yes...the difference for a small price and a bit of effort is HUGE

ok Im going to get 2 rear amber led bulbs for the indicators....

If i keep the front 2 halogen....will that be enough load for no hyper flash or is it a case of I 100% need the ones with resistors built in....even if its the bac two bulbs that are to be changed to LED?
 

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If i keep the front 2 halogen....will that be enough load for no hyper flash or is it a case of I 100% need the ones with resistors built in....even if its the bac two bulbs that are to be changed to LED?
100% you'll need ones with resistors to stop the hyper-flashing as the wiring loom for the indicators for the front/rear/wing mirror are one and the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK but if I get ones with built in resistors. the rest of the bulbs(front/wing) will still work ok?

as just ordered these for rears only?
 

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You should be able to replace them all if you wish, as long as you use the resister-type LEDs. Again, as long as the system sees high enough resistance overall in the circuit, it will not trip and hyper-flash. I don't think polarity is an issue as the bulbs can only go in one way, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Great... WIll be coming 22 oct...Il put them in the rear lights.... front are small t10 bulbs coloured
cannot see it making much of a differnce if i change them to LED...having said that I cannot seem to find T10 with built in resistors...Last thing I want to do is a have wire with a resistor hanging off it

The guy selling these bulbs I listed above stated they will consume the same current as a halogen bulb
he said 21-22watts so the system will thinks its a normal bulb.

Must be a new thing. I didnt know these types of bulbs existed
 

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Please do post some pics so we can see the finished results 👌
 

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I don't know how this got in the Mobile Electronics section. Moved to Gen 3.
 

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I don't think polarity is an issue as the bulbs can only go in one way, right?
The 7440 and 7443 lights can be inserted into the sockets either way, so LEDs would need to be mindful of polarity. An LED is a diode (the "D" in LED), and diodes only pass energy in one direction. Inserting the LED bulbs backwards won't harm them, in other words, but they also won't operate.

The resistors have no directionality or polarity to worry about. Having never installed one, though, do they go between the positive and negative (ground) wire, or are they used in series with the positive wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)

This is a petrol station with both rear indicators on... Lit up the whole place...

They are clean bright not dazzling...no hyperflash ...plug and play...Didnt expect it to be this much of a difference and really did not want to play with resistors....

Here is a comparison right side led left halogen....


Noticed as well, the 8mm bolts, better to use a 8mm screwdriver instead of phillips as can wear away.
Dont think anyone opened the taillights before....old bulbs wear black, seemed same from day one I think.

Now may have to change the fronts as well, they seem small amber coloured bulbs, wonder if they are worth doing. seems easy enough to get too from the engine bay/
The uk search engine says its 585 WY21W bulb
is this same as 7440?

I suppose if I can get these with built in no hyper flash...why not

So have I got this right ..canbus doesnt have a relation to hyperflashing..canbus is on board error when lights go out and hyperflashing is the circuit thinking a bulb is out as led is low powered?

Also front crv indicator bulbs.... is this the same as wy21w?



jeez this gets confusing!
thanks
 

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Can you post the lights you used, please? Looks like you got some good bulbs! I've been thinking of doing this too! These look good!

Dustin
 
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