Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
2008 Crv Asian 2.0 Liter engine
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, first time poster and hope some experts here can help out. Today my lifgate stopped opening from the outside. I removed the cover on the inside and was able to open the latch manually just fine. I also noticed the connector that connects the wires to the latch was disconnected. I reconnected that, convinced I had fixed the problem. Now the latch still doesn't work from the outside. Tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to see if that would reset something. It just seems like a massive coincidence to me that the connector would detach AND another problem would occur the same day, so it must be somehow related to the connector coming disconnected. Any thoughts you guys can provide? Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: twice today my alarm started going off, without horn, when I entered my car. As soon as I started it, the horn joined in. This must be related to the issue I'm having with the lift gate as it has never happened before. Maybe the back handle is stuck in the depressed position so the car behaves as though someone is trying to enter through the liftgate when I lock the door and leave the car? But if so, the wire clip being detached is a big coincidence. So maybe that ties in there as well.
 

·
Super Moderator
'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
Joined
·
4,101 Posts
Welcome to the forum! Before we can help we need more information. Please go to your Account Settings and add your location (city, state, country, etc.) and vehicle (year, trim level, engine, etc.) information, then save. The info will then display in your Avatar, as you can see it in mine (hover cursor over flag to see location). Once we have the additional info, we can more easily help.
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 185 2002 EX 2017 EX-L AWD
Joined
·
2,564 Posts
How did the Module get disconnected, was the car in for service for that to happen? Maybe the Overseas differs from the Can and US base?
 

·
Registered
2008 Crv Asian 2.0 Liter engine
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
How did the Module get disconnected, was the car in for service for that to happen? Maybe the Overseas differs from the Can and US base?
It must have just become connected over time. It hadn't been in for service. But I found it strange, when I put it back on it wasn't loose, the part you have to push to separate it still working, and I've had the car for 3 years and never did anything with the lift gate or opened that panel. It did look like the panel had been opened before, a pry mark was on the outside of it. I guess the previous owner. Maybe he didn't put it back on all the way and it hung on for 3 years. Still, I would've thought reconnecting it would have solved the problem. Odd.
 

·
Super Moderator
'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
Joined
·
4,101 Posts
Ah, the Philippines - place of my birth. I was born at Clark AFB @ Pampanga, just outside Manila, where they make those envelopes :cool:. It sounds to me like the rear hatch was broken into at some point. Possibly the latch is out of alignment, or possibly bent. This is what would set off the alarm, because the hatch does not show to be latched when it is closed. This is a mechanical issue and is separate from any electrical switch issues, so I would work on that first. You may have to realign the latch. Once that is correct, then check the switches - there are two of them - the actuator switch, and the handle switch. First, attach a meter and make sure power is reaching the two switch plugs. Then, to test the switches, disconnect each and run a power and a ground wire to the two terminals in the plug on each switch. The connectors are identical, and each has two pins. With the connector held so that the connector plug latch clip is up, the #1 (ground) pin is the left one, and the #2 (power) pin is on the right. Run jumper wires to those and test each switch. With the ground wire attached, touch the power jumper to its pin. If the switch clicks/operates, it is good. If not, replace it. Same for each switch. You can either run long jumper wires from the battery or another 12v source (such as the 12v cigarette lighter/accessory plug on the left rear panel of the cargo compartment, with the ignition turned on), or remove the switches and take them up to the battery where you can use short jumpers. Keep us posted on how this goes. I highly recommend you get a Honda Factory Service Manual. It has all this in it (Page 22-157).
 

·
Registered
2008 Crv Asian 2.0 Liter engine
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ah, the Philippines - place of my birth. I was born at Clark AFB @ Pampanga, just outside Manila, where they make those envelopes :cool:. It sounds to me like the rear hatch was broken into at some point. Possibly the latch is out of alignment, or possibly bent. This is what would set off the alarm, because the hatch does not show to be latched when it is closed. This is a mechanical issue and is separate from any electrical switch issues, so I would work on that first. You may have to realign the latch. Once that is correct, then check the switches - there are two of them - the actuator switch, and the handle switch. First, attach a meter and make sure power is reaching the two switch plugs. Then, to test the switches, disconnect each and run a power and a ground wire to the two terminals in the plug on each switch. The connectors are identical, and each has two pins. With the connector held so that the connector plug latch clip is up, the #1 (ground) pin is the left one, and the #2 (power) pin is on the right. Run jumper wires to those and test each switch. With the ground wire attached, touch the power jumper to its pin. If the switch clicks/operates, it is good. If not, replace it. Same for each switch. You can either run long jumper wires from the battery or another 12v source (such as the 12v cigarette lighter/accessory plug on the left rear panel of the cargo compartment, with the ignition turned on), or remove the switches and take them up to the battery where you can use short jumpers. Keep us posted on how this goes. I highly recommend you get a Honda Factory Service Manual. It has all this in it (Page 22-157).
Very nice! My wife has a lot of family in that area. I'm sure the Philippines has changed a lot since you were born. I love it here but covid-19 has certainly put a damper on things. I have a lot of friends in Austin as well, small world.

Thank you for your very knowledgeable reply, much appreciated. Actually I have some new symptoms which might shed some light on the situation. Before I had a chance to mess with anything, my driver's side door stopped unlocking or locking when I press the button on my key fob. All of the other doors unlock no problem. I had to use my key to manually unlock the driver's side door for the first time ever. Then while driving, the other locks tried to unlock a couple of times, as if I hit the unlock button. Next I noticed the passenger window won't roll down, using the button on driver's side or passenger side. I've never had any issues with any of these things. I'm thinking maybe the lock/window control panel on the driver's side door is the culprit. The seal at the bottom of the window is old and cracked and we've had a lot of rain here in Bohol lately. Could that be possible? Maybe the liftgate wiring clip that was disconnected just wasn't connected properly and just fell off when I opened the panel on the liftgate panel, if the last owner didn't push it in til it clicked. So maybe that's unrelated.

Do you think I'm onto something here? Or do you think this could be a more involved issue with the ECU or electrical system?

Thanks again for your knowledge. Nice car you have there by the way, I almost bought that color when I was shopping for my Gen 3. I actually traveled to Manila to buy it, looked at a few units and bought my silver Gen 3 in a parking lot in Las Pinas at 3am. My wife(filipina) thought I was crazy, but it worked out well and I've put 35,000km on the car since with no repairs necessary.

Cheers and thanks again for your help.
 

·
Super Moderator
'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
Joined
·
4,101 Posts
I have no way of knowing if all these issues are connected, but it does sound like you have a short or maybe some corroded connector pins somewhere. I would clean the pins and connectors on all the switches first and see if that makes a difference. Rain gets inside these areas where all the switches are located and can cause them to rust. While you're inside those doors clean the speaker connections too. In the end you might have to go find an automotive wiring wizard to figure it all out. A factory service manual might help a lot, as it has a lot of info on all this. I got mine on eBay, on disc, for $45. Worth its weight in gold. When you clean these connections it might be a good idea to then wrap them up in waterproof tape or something similar. Keep us posted!
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 185 2002 EX 2017 EX-L AWD
Joined
·
2,564 Posts
getting past the OT stuff. so this is a Used Honda and the last owner, can you get in contact with or not? Module, best to take a photo next time show people if the tab is broken off, they simply do not disconnect on there own
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I had a similar problem with my 2009. It appears that the hatch switch sends a signal to the computer. The computer monitors this signal and sends a signal to the solenoid locking device to unlock the hatch provided that all doors are sending their locked/unlocked status to the computer. If you search on my user id "Wrench" there is an entry for this problem on January 13, 2018. The resolution is below.

PROBLEM SOLVED
I used the test connector (part number 07WAZ-001010A) to put the MCIU in the test mode. The indication was an issue with the front passenger side knob switch. Removed the door panel, looked at the connector and saw that it was not fully inserted. Pushed it in until I heard a snap and the hatch now opens. For information, the MCIU requires all doors to be unlocked as a requirement to open the hatch. The knob switch in each door sends that signal to the MCIU. In my case the unlock signal from the front passenger side knob switch was missing because the connector was not fully inserted.
 

·
Registered
2008 Crv Asian 2.0 Liter engine
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I had a similar problem with my 2009. It appears that the hatch switch sends a signal to the computer. The computer monitors this signal and sends a signal to the solenoid locking device to unlock the hatch provided that all doors are sending their locked/unlocked status to the computer. If you search on my user id "Wrench" there is an entry for this problem on January 13, 2018. The resolution is below.

PROBLEM SOLVED
I used the test connector (part number 07WAZ-001010A) to put the MCIU in the test mode. The indication was an issue with the front passenger side knob switch. Removed the door panel, looked at the connector and saw that it was not fully inserted. Pushed it in until I heard a snap and the hatch now opens. For information, the MCIU requires all doors to be unlocked as a requirement to open the hatch. The knob switch in each door sends that signal to the MCIU. In my case the unlock signal from the front passenger side knob switch was missing because the connector was not fully inserted.
Thanks a ton, with my other lock symptoms that sounds spot on. I'll give it a look.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top