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I'm planning on purchasing a Gen 1/1.5 CR-V in the next couple of months, 2 questions. 1) what are things I should look for (ie. common issues) 2) What is a fair price for a CR-V with a good interior/exterior with around 200k miles, trying not to get ripped off here.
 

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As a former 1999 Gen 1.5 owner, the first thing is to make sure the previous owner has is all the maintenance records, the most important of which are records showing regular valve adjustments.

And I'd personally look for a 1999-2001 Gen 1.5 because of the increased engine power.

Welcome!
 

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The first thing you do is take it to a qualified mechanic and have a PPI (pre purchase inspection) done, that way you'll know exactly what you're getting into and can use any needed repairs as bargaining chips.
 

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It's like a box a chocolates...

But if you can get mechanic to lift it up and check every visual detail for around $100, it can save you from buying into an obvious problem or at least give you bargaining chips.

If it was me on a budget, I'd go for the Gen2 with 2.4L and 5 speed trans. (2003 thru 2007) Both die hard even when abused. Parts galore.
 

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<snip> ... I'd go for the Gen2 with 2.4L and 5 speed trans. (2003 thru 2007)
In the US the 2002-2006 CR-Vs were available with a 2.4L engine and 5 speed manual trans.
The 2007 is a different body design, and while it does have a 2.4L engine, it was not available with a 5 speed manual transmission in the US.

And I'd lean towards the 2005 or 2006 years due to the mid-model improvements, like bigger brakes and 16" wheels as standard equipment.
 

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In the US the 2002-2006 CR-Vs were available with a 2.4L engine and 5 speed manual trans.
The 2007 is a different body design, and while it does have a 2.4L engine, it was not available with a 5 speed manual transmission in the US.

And I'd lean towards the 2005 or 2006 years due to the mid-model improvements, like bigger brakes and 16" wheels as standard equipment.
Thanks! I am definitely not up to speed on all the CRV generations as much as I am Odys, Pilots and Accords.
 

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97-01 used a timing belt that should be changed around every 7 years or 110,000 miles. If you have to pay someone to do that it can be fairly expensive. If you are doing it yourself expect to dedicate at least 2 days for it.

The front sub frames rot out on the right side around the large bushing at the back of the lower control arm. The A/C drips down on top of the sub frame and then rots it from the inside out. Take a good look around that section from the wheel well and the bottom. This is another job that will probably be expensive to pay someone to do and at least 2 days if doing it yourself.

Everything else is pretty easy for DIY work as long as the bolts don't start snapping on you.

Valve adjustments are recommend around every 30,000 miles or so. The adjustments are easy if checked before you burn a valve and need the head removed from the engine.

The plastic on the radiators crack over time and start leaking.

Common suspension issues with age: ball joints, upper control arms, stabilizer end links and bushings, tie rod ends.

The solder joints inside of the clock are a weak point and the clocks quit working. There is a DIY write up to take the clock apart and re-solder it.

For AWD models, the rear differential fluid needs changed once in a while or you will start getting noises when doing sharp turns.

Speaking of AWD, the driveshaft or propshaft running from the trans to the differential can have the u-joints and center bearing wear out. Honda only sells it as a complete assembly for a significant cost. Some people have managed to find 4x4 shops to rebuild them. A lot of people end up removing the drive shaft and driving them as FWD only. Be sure yours has not been removed.

This forum is also full of all kinds of issues with the driver door wiring harness. Opening and closing the door all of the time can break some of the wires between the door and the chassis. I have heard stories of all kinds of issues with windows, locks, speakers alarms and lights. There are something like 40 wires running through there I think I read, so they can affect all sorts of things. Mostly they are little annoyances and don't cause major issues.
 

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"Speaking of AWD, the driveshaft or propshaft running from the trans to the differential can have the u-joints and center bearing wear out. Honda only sells it as a complete assembly for a significant cost. Some people have managed to find 4x4 shops to rebuild them. A lot of people end up removing the drive shaft and driving them as FWD only. Be sure yours has not been removed."

Any easy way to tell if this has been done to my newly acquired 2001?
 

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"Speaking of AWD, the driveshaft or propshaft running from the trans to the differential can have the u-joints and center bearing wear out. Honda only sells it as a complete assembly for a significant cost. Some people have managed to find 4x4 shops to rebuild them. A lot of people end up removing the drive shaft and driving them as FWD only. Be sure yours has not been removed."

Any easy way to tell if this has been done to my newly acquired 2001?
Yes, look under it and see if you see what appears to be an old style driveshaft running from the trans in the front to the large ball between the rear wheels.
 
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