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Discussion Starter #1
Last week my alternator and battery went. After having them changed the check engine light wouldn't clear and I needed to change the 02 sensor, mass airflow sensor...done. Then the shop wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to change both camshaft position sensors, so I brought it home and had a friend change them. When I drive it off the lot, the battery light came on. My friend had a hard time actually finding camshaft position sensors, but then finally did after awhile. He changed them out, but now the D is blinking AND the battery light is still on after a minute of start up. To make things worse, the car doesn't stay up right away like it used to. It hesitates a bit. I had absolutely no problems with it before this and I can't believe how many things just went at once. I haven't driven the car now. I'm scared to. I don't want something worse to happen. Someone, please help! What do I do?!
 

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I should mention that when we were looking for the sensor, we thought we had found it twice. Once next to each front tire. We unplugged the sensor just to realize that it was the wrong sensor. So we put it back and finally found both of them to the right of the motor.Then we replaced them. Is it possible that when we unplugged the other sensors we tripped something to make the D light blink? I just don't know why it is hesitating to start now though...and draining power. I never ever had problems, now they're hitting all at once.
 

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Any chance that your original electrical issue with the alternator and battery included an over-voltage condition? Because I agree that seems like way too many things to be going wrong at the same time, especially if the car ran well otherwise beforehand. And all your new problems seem electrical. The flashing D indicates a transmission issue. Unplugging things should not trip anything so long as you did it while the car was not running and they were properly reconnected afterwards.

Is the electrical system working correctly now? With that as the common factor, I'm thinking either there is some kind of wiring problem / bad ground or perhaps there was initially some kind of power surge that could have damaged those components. Have you tested any of the old parts to confirm they are actually faulty? The camshaft sensors are basically proximity switches, which are usually rather hardy components so I think the likelihood of them both being bad at the same time is unusual. I suspect the transmission error (blinking D) is related to the rest of the issues. If you don't already have one, get yourself a copy of the CRV Service Manual - it is invaluable and has wiring diagrams and test procedures to aid locating the problem. I would start by verifying the charging system / voltage regulator is in fact operating properly.
 

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Check your battery voltage first thing in the morning before you start it up. Should be over 12.4 v or higher. but below 12.7v.
Make sure the battery cable connectors are clean and tight enough and the cables are in good shape at the connection points.
Check it right after you start it up and it should be around 14v.
Check the bonding,strap or cable, connections. The main two are:
Neg battery connector to the frame near the radiator top.
Strap from the frame near the radiator top to the motor.
Check the ATF level and observe the clarity,color and odor of it.
Disconnect the battery cable from the battery and short them together (without them being connected to the battery) for 5-10 sec to clear the codes and the computer. Reconnect them properly.

All those steps are free, if you have a multimeter. If you don't have one, buy one. You can get a decent one for under $20.
Have your friend disconnect and reconnect those two connectors he mistakenly disconnected, just to ensure it is connected properly.

Another item you would find helpful is an OBDII reader. If you have a laptop or smartphone, you can buy one online for under $20.

You can also purchase a real-time monitor that stays connected to your CRV, like an Ultra-gauge for around $70 that lets you read the codes and reset them along with a bunch or other things. http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ is a place you can read about it. Click on either the 'wired' or 'wireless' boxes in the lower half of the screen for details on what they do. I use the Ultra-gauge and like it a lot. Many use the more expensive ScanGauge which has even more features.

Are you showing any more codes, or pending codes? If so, what are they?

Too many things went wrong too quickly and probably most of them have a single cause. The 'blinking' D light may be separate, but it also may be connected to the others.

So, codes, cable connections, voltages, atf fluid, connectors that have been removed (or possibly bumped accidentally) and reconnected are places to start.

Here http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400961411186?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82 is a low cost OBDII reader , but I have no experience with it. Look it up on the Internet and get some reviews if you are considering buying one. They are also sold in some stores.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow. You guys are super helpful and have a lot of great information! I ended up bringing it back to the first dealer, that's not a honda dealer, where I first had the work done and they found out that the alternator was faulty. They cleared all of the codes after putting in a new one, so now the only thing that lights is the check engine light. The camshaft code is the only code that is coming back. They recommended bringing it to a honda dealer and having them look into in more in depth. I'm just hoping that whatever it is that's really wrong is covered under warranty. Oh, along with the camshaft position sensor code is a wonky idle. From what I understand, that'll happen when the sensors are bad. It's just odd because we just changed them. Wish me luck guys.
 

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Personally, I'd be suspicious if the other sensors were bad to begin with (maybe the O2, but the Mass Airflow?)... I also think it's odd for the camshaft sensors to go, so as you still get a code for them I wonder if the originals were fine and you still have a wiring problem in that circuit.

Anyway, good luck!
 

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I would still check the battery voltage at its connectors, after the crv has sat overnight and before the engine is started to see if the voltage is 12.4v or higher. Preferably 12.5 or 12.6v. If it is below 12.4v you either have a parasitic drain or a bad battery (yes, even new batteries can be bad.)
It is possible that all those later problems were caused by the low or fluctuating voltage caused by the replacement of the alternator (not working properly) and an undercharged battery. TomKatt suggested similarly.
Most of your codes should have gone away after a good alternator and fully charged battery was installed.

The idle can change quite a bit whenever you disconnect the battery. You can do the 'idle relearn procedure' ( its free and pretty easy: look it up on the Internet) to help the computer relearn the idle, etc or it will learn by just driving the crv for several days by itself.

Hopefully that code will reset. What is the code #?

At the very least, do the idle relearn procedure. http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/19-maintenance-service/3766-idle-re-learn-procedure.html
Look at Reply #6.

Buffalo4
 
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