[Pencil]

Howdy folks. I've been having some issues with my CR-V's performance recently. These are the main issues I've been noticing:

1) When the engine is hot, the idle drops to 400-500 rpm, rather than the usual 900-1000 rpm.

2) Again when the engine is hot, or at least warm, I get an occasional weak start. It cranks perfectly fine, but it seems like the engine is struggling to fire up.
Normally, it cranks and immediately fires up to ~1500 rpm and then settles down to 1000 rpm.
When I get this occasional weak start, it cranks longer than normal, and then it fires up to about 400 or 500 rpm and then slowly climbs up to about 1000 rpm, or sometimes even stays at those low rpms until I throw it in gear.

3) Sometimes it feels like my car is hesitating to accelerate, or it stumbles and slightly shakes on acceleration. It will feel very underpowered for a few minutes, and hesitate to accelerate, and then minutes later it feels like it "wakes up" and accelerates normally.

4) After a lot of very careful listening and observation, I can hear a very faint whistle / high pitched noise at idle with the hood open. Possible vacuum leak, maybe the PCV valve?

WHAT I'VE DONE RECENTLY:
• valve adjustment
• new distributor, spark plugs, spark plug wires
• new battery, alternator tested and passed
• new battery, engine, and transmission ground cables
• new ECT sensor (Honda part # 37870-PJ7-003)
• new Honda fuel filter
• transmission fluid was changed recently, still cherry red


I did some reading on this forum and it seemed like my ECT sensor was suspect. I had my mechanic replace it, and the performance certainly improved. After replacing the sensor, it feels like my torque converter is locking up more consistently, and the acceleration/power is definitely better. So my ECT sensor probably needed to be replaced.
BUT, after replacing the sensor and fuel filter, the car still idles low when warm, and I also experienced another weak, slow start.

Any ideas where to look next?

My mechanic suggested that it could be simply due to age and high mileage. I accept that as a possibility, but if there is something relatively simple I can fix, I would like to do my due diligence.

 

[otto888man]

Have you tried to clean the idle air passage? Is the New Distributor an Aftermarket or OEM?

 

[Pencil]

Have you tried to clean the idle air passage? Is the New Distributor an Aftermarket or OEM?

Hmm I'm actually not sure on the distributor. My receipt says "Distributor TD74" and I was charged about $390 for the part, but doesn't say the brand. Are there any Honda markings on the distributor housing that would give it away? I could also call my mechanic and ask, but he's closed until Monday.

I have not cleaned the idle air passages yet. That was one of my potential next steps. I am prepared to clean the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). Isn't there also a "fast idle" valve that needs to be cleaned? Is it a FITV like some other Hondas?

 

[otto888man]

Do you still have the Old Distributor? You can ask if it is an Aftermarket. You could have 2 separate issues. I will post a diagram which screw in the throttle body to remove and spray throttle body to clean the passage. You might need to readjust the idle speed after this procedure, most of the time you will need to lower the idle speed. I have recommended this procedure to other members and fix their idling issues.

Throttle Body - 2000 Honda CR-V 5 Door EX KA 4AT

Shop in the parts listing - 2000 Honda CR-V 5 Door EX KA 4AT Throttle Body. Discounted prices and Hassle-Free Return on genuine Honda parts.

www.hondapartsnow.com

Item #1. You might need to remove or pry the seal from the Factory.
For the FITV I have fixed this on Accords by Turning the Big Plastic Washer. But I have no experience doing this on a CRV. I hope this helps. Keep me posted. Do the fix one at a time see what changes.

 

[Pencil]

I do not have the old distributor, since it was failing I didn't see any reason to hold onto it...

Item #1. You might need to remove or pry the seal from the Factory.
For the FITV I have fixed this on Accords by Turning the Big Plastic Washer. But I have no experience doing this on a CRV. I hope this helps. Keep me posted. Do the fix one at a time see what changes.

Okay I need some clarity here. I remove the screw (#1 on the diagram) and then spray throttle body cleaner into that opening? Or are you saying I need to remove #1 to get access to the air control valve?

 

[otto888man]

This is to clean air bypass passage for the air to flow better to the engine. IAC control valve is different it's item # 20. Don't touch the IAC or the Air Control Valve yet. Until you clean this screw #1 in the diagram.

 

[Pencil]

This is to clean air bypass passage for the air to flow better to the engine. IAC control valve is different it's item # 20. Don't touch the IAC or the Air Control Valve yet. Until you clean this screw #1 in the diagram.

Hey thanks! That will be my next project. If I'm lucky I'll find time to work on my car tomorrow. I'll report back with results.

Is MAF sensor cleaner safe to use for this, or should I pick up some throttle body cleaner?

 

[otto888man]

MAF cleaner might not be strong enough. It's better to get a Throttle body cleaner. If you have Any questions just ask away

 

[Pencil]

MAF cleaner might not be strong enough. It's better to get a Throttle body cleaner. If you have Any questions just ask away

I just went out to remove that screw and clean the air passage. I hit it with some PB Blaster before starting. The screw head is a little rusty, and as I started removing it, the head started to strip. It was turning, but occasionally slipping and stripping out some metal.

So I stopped, and tightened it back up. I didn't want to strip the whole head out in the process of removing it, and then end up unable to re-install it.

I'm going to go to the junkyard sometime and pull a backup of this screw, so if I do strip it really bad during the removal, I'll be covered.

 

[G.W.]

I just went out to remove that screw and clean the air passage. I hit it with some PB Blaster before starting. The screw head is a little rusty, and as I started removing it, the head started to strip. It was turning, but occasionally slipping and stripping out some metal.

So I stopped, and tightened it back up. I didn't want to strip the whole head out in the process of removing it, and then end up unable to re-install it.

I'm going to go to the junkyard sometime and pull a backup of this screw, so if I do strip it really bad during the removal, I'll be covered.

I would just buy a new one, Link to idle screw: 16016-P2M-A01 - Honda Parts Now

Those screws have a rubber seal just below the head of the screw. There is no guarantee that a screw from the junkyard would be any better. And if any air gets around the screw it will act as a vacuum leak. I would pair it with something else you need otherwise the shipping will cost you more than the screw.

But if you decide to go with one from the junkyard make sure to check the condition of the rubber seal on the screw before you buy it.

 

[Pencil]

I would just buy a new one, Link to idle screw: 16016-P2M-A01 - Honda Parts Now

Those screws have a rubber seal just below the head of the screw. There is no guarantee that a screw from the junkyard would be any better. And if any air gets around the screw it will act as a vacuum leak. I would pair it with something else you need otherwise the shipping will cost you more than the screw.

But if you decide to go with one from the junkyard make sure to check the condition of the rubber seal on the screw before you buy it.

I actually ended up doing just that. Gas money + Pick N Pull entry fee would be close to $10 anyways so I decided to just order a new one. $13 with shipping, kind of stupid, but obviously way cheaper than paying a mechanic to diagnose the issue.

Thanks G.W.

 

[Pencil]

I spoke to my mechanic today, and it is indeed an aftermarket distributor. He said he realizes that aftermarket distributors don't always perform the best, but Honda distributors are pretty much impossible to find. He said adjusting the angle of the distributor might help me improve the engine performance a little, so I think I'm going to try to get around to that. I have seen threads on that topic on here.

 

[craig baconator]

I spoke to my mechanic today, and it is indeed an aftermarket distributor. He said he realizes that aftermarket distributors don't always perform the best, but Honda distributors are pretty much impossible to find. He said adjusting the angle of the distributor might help me improve the engine performance a little, so I think I'm going to try to get around to that. I have seen threads on that topic on here.

Adjusting the distributor = adjusting the timing. I was going to ask about timing adjustment.

I feel my timing is out of adjustment because my buddy turned my distributor until it idled best. My engine mount as popping after my timing belt change. My fuel consumption is really bad, so could be my timing is quite a bit off. I bought a timing light but was too lazy this weekend to adjust it. I’m also on the fence for a $70 investment for something I’ll probably need only once.

Calculate your gas mileage before and after.

 

[otto888man]

Agreed. I have experienced with Aftermarket Distributor Failing. But not all Aftermarket Distributor is bad. As what Craig mentioned Adjust the Base Timing of the Distributor. Just read the Repair Manual. If you want you can use a Permanent Marker on the Distributor through the Cylinder head just in case you want to revert back to the Original position. But don't Over advance the base timing.

 

[Pencil]

Okay I've got a question for y'all:

I understand that to check the timing, you have to warm up the engine, and connect those two terminals on the service connector. If I'm only adjusting the angle of the distributor, do I still need to warm up the engine and bridge those terminals during the process? Or can I just adjust the distributor and then fire it up to see how it runs?

I'm thinking of just adjusting the angle about 1 degree at a time, and seeing how it runs at each increment, to try to find the sweet spot.

 

[Pencil]

Honestly I think I'm just going to go buy a timing light from Harbor Freight. Between my car and my girlfriend's car, I'm sure it'll earn its keep.

I'm a chemist, so I absolutely hate guess-work and assumptions. I'm not very interested in tinkering with my distributor and going by feel, I'd rather invest in a timing light and know for certain.

 

[craig baconator]

Honestly I think I'm just going to go buy a timing light from Harbor Freight. Between my car and my girlfriend's car, I'm sure it'll earn its keep.

I'm a chemist, so I absolutely hate guess-work and assumptions. I'm not very interested in tinkering with my distributor and going by feel, I'd rather invest in a timing light and know for certain.

I’m in the same boat right now.

 

[G.W.]

Agreed. I have experienced with Aftermarket Distributor Failing. But not all Aftermarket Distributor is bad. As what Craig mentioned Adjust the Base Timing of the Distributor. Just read the Repair Manual. If you want you can use a Permanent Marker on the Distributor through the Cylinder head just in case you want to revert back to the Original position. But don't Over advance the base timing.

How do you adjust the distributor on a 1st gen CRV? At least on mine it only goes on one way and you can't turn it. I have seen a few posts talking about it but I don't see how you adjust it.

 

[Pencil]

How do you adjust the distributor on a 1st gen CRV? At least on mine it only goes on one way and you can't turn it. I have seen a few posts talking about it but I don't see how you adjust it.

You loosen the three mounting bolts and just turn it slightly. You can only turn it a few degrees each direction, but there's a bit of play in the mounting bracket it seems.

EDIT: added diagram from service manual

 

[8dragon]

Howdy folks. I've been having some issues with my CR-V's performance recently. These are the main issues I've been noticing:

1) When the engine is hot, the idle drops to 400-500 rpm, rather than the usual 900-1000 rpm.

2) Again when the engine is hot, or at least warm, I get an occasional weak start. It cranks perfectly fine, but it seems like the engine is struggling to fire up.
Normally, it cranks and immediately fires up to ~1500 rpm and then settles down to 1000 rpm.
When I get this occasional weak start, it cranks longer than normal, and then it fires up to about 400 or 500 rpm and then slowly climbs up to about 1000 rpm, or sometimes even stays at those low rpms until I throw it in gear.

3) Sometimes it feels like my car is hesitating to accelerate, or it stumbles and slightly shakes on acceleration. It will feel very underpowered for a few minutes, and hesitate to accelerate, and then minutes later it feels like it "wakes up" and accelerates normally.

4) After a lot of very careful listening and observation, I can hear a very faint whistle / high pitched noise at idle with the hood open. Possible vacuum leak, maybe the PCV valve?

WHAT I'VE DONE RECENTLY:
• valve adjustment
• new distributor, spark plugs, spark plug wires
• new battery, alternator tested and passed
• new battery, engine, and transmission ground cables
• new ECT sensor (Honda part # 37870-PJ7-003)
• new Honda fuel filter
• transmission fluid was changed recently, still cherry red


I did some reading on this forum and it seemed like my ECT sensor was suspect. I had my mechanic replace it, and the performance certainly improved. After replacing the sensor, it feels like my torque converter is locking up more consistently, and the acceleration/power is definitely better. So my ECT sensor probably needed to be replaced.
BUT, after replacing the sensor and fuel filter, the car still idles low when warm, and I also experienced another weak, slow start.

Any ideas where to look next?

My mechanic suggested that it could be simply due to age and high mileage. I accept that as a possibility, but if there is something relatively simple I can fix, I would like to do my due diligence.

You mentioned faint whistle / high-pitched noise - did you check for a vacuum leak? Do you have a scan tool so you can observe fuel trims, etc.?