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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I'm looking to replace the pads on my 03 CRV, I'm deciding between semi-met and ceramic pads, which pads could be better?? I'm very aggressive with the brakes, and I want the best stopping power (when braking seeing happening nicely) and firm pedal. If I can, I would like to get rid of the brake groan whenever I'm coming to a full stop, releasing the brakes or creeping in traffic... Which would be my best bet? I'm running and will be keeping stock rotors, can't go OEM pads, and I'm not running OEM pads though. Thanks in advance!
 

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Hello everyone, I'm looking to replace the pads on my 03 CRV, I'm deciding between semi-met and ceramic pads, which pads could be better?? I'm very aggressive with the brakes, and I want the best stopping power (when braking seeing happening nicely) and firm pedal. If I can, I would like to get rid of the brake groan whenever I'm coming to a full stop, releasing the brakes or creeping in traffic... Which would be my best bet? I'm running and will be keeping stock rotors, can't go OEM pads, and I'm not running OEM pads though. Thanks in advance!
Go with ceramic pad and replace the brake rotor if you want to get rid of the brake groan. Your rotor is probably caked with rust.
 

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Not-a-Mechanic
2011 CR-V 4WD EX
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The groan could also be something else. But yea these cars use ceramic. With the giant wheels and 4 wheel go, I can't imagine any issues with braking. Theoretically a softer pad might stop better, wear faster, make more dust, but I'd stick with ceramic. Good new rotors, always. They can be turned, but they're not designed for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The groan could also be something else. But yea these cars use ceramic. With the giant wheels and 4 wheel go, I can't imagine any issues with braking. Theoretically a softer pad might stop better, wear faster, make more dust, but I'd stick with ceramic. Good new rotors, always. They can be turned, but they're not designed for that.
Really? Did they come from factory with ceramics? I was told they came with semi
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The groan could also be something else. But yea these cars use ceramic. With the giant wheels and 4 wheel go, I can't imagine any issues with braking. Theoretically a softer pad might stop better, wear faster, make more dust, but I'd stick with ceramic. Good new rotors, always. They can be turned, but they're not designed for that.
Really? Did they come from factory with ceramics? I was told they came with semi
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Go with ceramic pad and replace the brake rotor if you want to get rid of the brake groan. Your rotor is probably caked with rust.
Are you running ceramics now? Have you used semi on your Honda? I'm worried about having the best braking, but if you already tried both and there's no much of a difference then I will stick to the least dust producer hahaha
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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In theory, ceramic pads don't stop quite as effectively as semi-metallics.

That said (in street driving) I've never felt that ceramics didn't perform well.

Yes, the Gen2 OEM pads were ceramic, and they didn't dust as much as later generations' OEM pads. In the USA, You can buy OEM padfs from the online dealers for about the same price as Akebono aftermarket pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In theory, ceramic pads don't stop quite as effectively as semi-metallics.

That said (in street driving) I've never felt that ceramics didn't perform well.

Yes, the Gen2 OEM pads were ceramic, and they didn't dust as much as later generations' OEM pads. In the USA, You can buy OEM padfs from the online dealers for about the same price as Akebono aftermarket pads.
Carbuff always saving me!! Ok, 3 were placing bets on ceramics, I'll be putting ceramics then! Thank you all for the support!!!
 

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I would recommend checking the emergency brakes out as well while you're in there already working on that area. If and when rotors need turning there is no reason in the world not to. The comment that they are not designed for it or that new rotors will be better is completely false and bogus, as is the idea that rust is causing an issue. Rust around edges or elsewhere can easily be wire brushed or wheeled off or just left as it is not really an issue. Of course, it's your money.

On the firm braking feel: Replace all four of your rubber brake hoses (the ones at each wheel) with the braided steel ones, then do a fresh brake bleed. You will then have what you seek. The braided steel hoses eliminate the rubber hose expansion common with stock hoses. Well worth the extra money.
 
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I would recommend checking the emergency brakes out as well while you're in there already working on that area. If and when rotors need turning there is no reason in the world not to. The comment that they are not designed for it or that new rotors will be better is completely false and bogus, as is the idea that rust is causing an issue. Rust around edges or elsewhere can easily be wire brushed or wheeled off or just left as it is not really an issue. Of course, it's your money.

On the firm braking feel: Replace all four of your rubber brake hoses (the ones at each wheel) with the braided steel ones, then do a fresh brake bleed. You will then have what you seek. The braided steel hoses eliminate the rubber hose expansion common with stock hoses. Well worth the extra money.
FYI modern rotors are not meant to be turned. Turning rotors has been dead for sometime now. Turning them cleans them up for a short time but your back to square one in a quarter of the time. With the cost of new rotors shops or anywhere that turn them are becoming insanely rare. Most places that could refuse to because of complaints down the road.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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FYI modern rotors are not meant to be turned. Turning rotors has been dead for sometime now. Turning them cleans them up for a short time but your back to square one in a quarter of the time. With the cost of new rotors shops or anywhere that turn them are becoming insanely rare. Most places that could refuse to because of complaints down the road.
That's simply not true at all. If your rotors can be turned, it is a waste of good steel and money not to. Parts replacers will tell you this kind of thing all day long. Actual real mechanics/shops will just turn them, because it's the right way to go. I don't know of any shops around here that have stopped turning or have plans to. I wouldn't use any shop or mechanic that peddles this misinformation. There's a lot of it out there, too. For instance, you can also still rebuild your calipers with kits, and save good money. They are not difficult at all. Way, way cheaper than new ones. I've done it many times. A mechanic that tells you otherwise is one who is too lazy, has never been trained properly and doesn't know how, or just wants to use your money to save himself work.
 

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Forum error - duplicate.
 

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I tend to go with Akebono pads myself--they last longer than any of the aftermarket pads the local parts houses sell. Akebono is OEM on many manufacturers' cars.

Dissipating heat is always a problem with brakes--I think the only real upgrade would be to get slotted/cross-drilled rotors, and those are not inexpensive for quality rotors.

FYI modern rotors are not meant to be turned. Turning rotors has been dead for sometime now. Turning them cleans them up for a short time but your back to square one in a quarter of the time.
Several years ago, I seem to recall the latest technique was having the rotors turned while still mounted to the vehicle. (I can't recall if that was a Honda TSB that mentioned it--it's been a decade since I read it.)

I haven't seen any local stores that turn the rotors anymore. It used to be common. Nowadays they just want to sell you new rotors anyways. (Sad thing is, the affordable rotors they sell most people are the ones that don't last very long.) I don't even know if a dealer would do it anymore either. My instinct these days is to buy new ones and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would recommend checking the emergency brakes out as well while you're in there already working on that area. If and when rotors need turning there is no reason in the world not to. The comment that they are not designed for it or that new rotors will be better is completely false and bogus, as is the idea that rust is causing an issue. Rust around edges or elsewhere can easily be wire brushed or wheeled off or just left as it is not really an issue. Of course, it's your money.

On the firm braking feel: Replace all four of your rubber brake hoses (the ones at each wheel) with the braided steel ones, then do a fresh brake bleed. You will then have what you seek. The braided steel hoses eliminate the rubber hose expansion common with stock hoses. Well worth the extra money.
Sorry for the late response! I always give maintenance to the ebrake as well...I turn the rotors each 3 pad change, this time I turned them when I installed my brembo ceramics, I still have brake groan unless brakes are hot, very hot, then it won't groan. Next time I'll try semi metallics. I always switch the brake hardware and lube everything, so that's not the origin of the groan.. LOL.

Yeah! I know what you refer to! But it's not about the braided lines since I've driven other crvs and have other brake feeling, in fact, the brake feeling on my crv sometimes is good like the other ones I've driven, sometimes it feels it's braking fine, other times, it doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
FYI modern rotors are not meant to be turned. Turning rotors has been dead for sometime now. Turning them cleans them up for a short time but your back to square one in a quarter of the time. With the cost of new rotors shops or anywhere that turn them are becoming insanely rare. Most places that could refuse to because of complaints down the road.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Where I live it's rare to buy rotors, we turn them as long as it's within spec. turning rotors cost probably 5 dollars each, and new rotors 40 dollars each. Not nice...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update! I still have the groan! Damn! I can't get rid of it, I used to not have groan on the rear, after the new pads I have the same groan as the fronts. Brembo ceramics, new hardware, everything lubed as I always do. Maybe semimet pads are the way to go to make them quiet? I hate the groan
 

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I have a theory that ceramic pads are too hard, and they burnish the rotor surfaces. Then you have smooth hard surfaces rubbing, which makes the highly annoying noise. Kind of like when two women are arguing. :giggle: Just kidding. I prefer not to use the ceramics.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have a theory that ceramic pads are too hard, and they burnish the rotor surfaces. Then you have smooth hard surfaces rubbing, which makes the highly annoying noise. Kind of like when two women are arguing. :giggle: Just kidding. I prefer not to use the ceramics.
I was thinking something similar... In fact they don't brake as good as you could imagine since they get smooth, not like a semimet pad which isn't smooth at all even after a lot of braking. Do you use semimet pads on your crv? I can imagine they perform better compared to ceramics
 

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I've yet to do brakes on it, but when I do yes, I will go that route. The original owner had them all done not long before I bought it, so I'm good for a while.
 
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