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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought new tires and my low pressure light has been blinking for days. The new tires were even removed and the sensors checked. Each one is fine and gives no code of error. The TPMS computer shows to be working when tested as well. What is it? I'm really frustrated. The car has been reset several times trying to get the blinking to stop. Nothing seems to help. I'm at my wits end. The car is a 2009 CRV EX-L. Yes, the tire pressures are correct; and not low. Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

If I can't figure anything out, it will cost me $125 at Honda for a diagnostic test. I'd sure love to avoid that if possible.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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We are assuming that the tire store (NOT a dealer) reset the indicator?


The transmitter batteries in the wheel's valves have a life, they don't last forever. How old are they? If they have been replaced, are they OEM or aftermarket?

I'm thinking the best course of action is to 'suck it up' and go to the dealer.
 

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As an alternative, I would call around to local tire shops and see if any have the testing meter for these and what they charge to diagnose. Or they may know of a mechanic shop that has the capability. The dealer charge is excessive. Or just dicker with your dealer service writer and see if they can do better. They like to act like they are the only show in town but the truth is that they know they're not, and if you let them know you know that, you may get a favorable outcome. Otherwise I'd just find someone else. Either way you should be able to find the best deal if you keep looking. Discount Tire and other local tire dealers have this capability, so just let your fingers do the walking. Let us know how it turns out.

Note: I have seen a youtube video mention that simply disconnecting the battery for a little bit and then reconnecting it caused the whole system to "re-boot," which solved the problem. Of course, you may have to re-enter your radio code, too. Whether or not this would work in your case is debatable, but it could save you some duckies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I really apprecaite the tips. Yes, I bought the new tires at Discount Tire, and the flashing low light didn't start until I got those tires. I have only recently bought the car, so I don't know the history. I have had them test the sensors and computer. Neither throw codes; as they are all working properly. I even had them pull off each tire and sensor and show me that they were not cracked or damaged; and they were not. I have had it reset a couple of times by Discount Tire and once by Honda. The light never stops blinking. I know Discount Tire ONLY does tires, sensors and tire related items. I trust them more than I would Honda. They certainly handle more sensor installations than Honda; by far. Honda's excuse was that 3 tires are one brand and one is another. I don't believe that for a minute. Discount Tire found that excuse ridiculous too. I will keep on it until I get an answer. I think the next stop will be NTB. They may charge a small fee to diagnose, but it won't be $125 like Honda. My very last resort will be to go to Honda for that diagnosis. I will definitely keep you updated. Thanks again.
 

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I would be fascinated to hear the Dealer's genius explanation for how the system knows one tire is a different brand - I'll bet that would be priceless! I think my retort to them would be that I'd be happy to let them attempt to solve it, with the caveat that if they can prove it's my fault or the vehicle's fault due to wear and tear, I'll pay for the repair, but if it turns out it's Honda's fault due to a glitch in their design of the system, or their inability to fix it so far because they are not competent enough, then they must eat the cost.


Being as how there are two "systems" at work here, the TPMS and the LPTM (and it sounds like the LPTM is the one that is blinking), and that there are two separate reset procedures (one for each system), it would appear that the LPTM reset is not resetting correctly.

Here's what the service manual says: "If the system is working correctly, the two indicators (TPMS and LPTM) should, when you turn the ignition from the off position to On, come on for appr. two seconds, and then go off. If they do not, then there is a problem with the system." On page 2 it says that "if the TPMS control unit is not receiving power or has failed, then the TPMS indicator light comes on but no DTC (Code) is set." It sounds to me like the steps are 1-clear all codes, 2- reset LPTM, then 3-reset TPMS. It also says that if codes remain in the system, disconnecting the battery will not clear them. Then, on the troubleshooting page for the symptom "No code is set and LPTM does not turn off" it says to do this: "With ignition off, disconnect TPMS control unit (behind left side of dash), then turn ignition to on. If indicator comes on, and then goes off - check for loose/poor connections at the TPMS control unit, then retest. If it does not, then run troubleshooting for the gauge control module."


So it sounds to me like it could be a loose connector plug at the TPMS unit, or a gauge control module issue. The service manual section on all this about 35-40 pages with multiple charts and procedures to test. I got mine in CD form off eBay for about $45 or so, and it has already paid for itself more than once. You might consider getting one. If nothing else, it could be a big help when attempting to avoid having the stealership running up your bill with unnecessary test charges when you show him printed pages showing that you are watching what he is doing. Regardless, the only advantage he has is the Honda Diagnostic system that they can connect to your OBD-2 port, which actually makes it easier and simpler to diagnose and therefore no justification for high testing charges. In fact, I would require that they do the diagnosing free and only pay for parts and labor for the repair, since it is their job to figure it out - why should I pay them extra for that? Nope.


Anyways, I hope any of this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Manul

Great information, Larry. I appreciate your taking the time to message. I will definitely do as you suggested. Not sure how soon I can get to it, but I will let you know the outcome.

Thanks again,

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, Honda said the module is non-responsive. It will cost me $678 plus tax. Ouch. I sure wasn't expecting it to be cheap, but I wasn't expecting it to be that much. Including the diagnostics, Honda ended up being cheaper than the mechanic I have used for years. I will just have to tighten my belt and do it. Thanks guys.
 

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Ouch! I wonder if it would be worthwhile to try and get one from a wrecking yard. I've never heard of one going bad. I would think it might be a way cheaper way to go, and I would likely try that route first. The one and only time my BMW bike ever broke down on me, it was the Hall Effect Sender, a part in the ignition system, and The part was $1,000 new!!! My trusty mechanic got me a used one for $500. Never had another problem with it. He said they never go out. I said yeah, right.


Well, at least you have a solution. Dang, for that price the thing should be gold plated and zircon encrusted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, that was a painful pill to swallow. I had just bought the car from that dealership. So that issue is resolved. Now I just posted a vibration I'm experiencing. So far this car is not cheaper for me than the 2002 Honda Accord I just sold; and I wasn't making car payments on that, like I am not on the CRV. Ouch.

P.S. I need to try and figure out how to add my info in my signature like you have, Larry. I thought I'd figured that out, but I don't see it in my posts. I will look at it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Carbuff2. I entered my information there for my signature, but for some reason it is not included in my posts. I don't see an option to turn it on or include it.

Michael
 

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find a used one online.

But be advised TPMS systems are the most common annoyance of every car brand out there. They ALWAYS have issues. If it was me I'd pull the module, if the light stays out great, if not I'd open the dash and kill the indicator bulb for it.

Thankfully Honda systems are among the best for reliability on those. So I would grab a used one and go that route vs buying a new one, chance are the used one will last you for many years to come without issues (though I would be bothers that this didnt happen till new tires were installed).

Side note, very bad idea to mix and match tires if your CRV is 4wd or awd. 2 different brands/lines of tires are often well off in actual size from each other. Difference of 2.5% between axles is max (unless you have a 2wd version of course, then o ly fronts have to match). Difference on tires of the same axle should be less than that or premature failure can result due to over working of the differential.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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At the top of this page on the right is your Welcome Panel, which includes Settings. Click on Settings. In the left hand column, go down to Edit Signature and click on that. On that page you should be able to add the info and preview it till you get it like you want it then save it. After that it should be attached to all your posts.
 

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it says to do this: "With ignition off, disconnect TPMS control unit (behind left side of dash), then turn ignition to on. If indicator comes on, and then goes off - check for loose/poor connections at the TPMS control unit, then retest. If it does not, then run troubleshooting for the gauge control module."


So it sounds to me like it could be a loose connector plug at the TPMS unit, or a gauge control module issue. The service manual section on all this about 35-40 pages with multiple charts and procedures to test. I got mine in CD form off eBay for about $45 or so, and it has already paid for itself more than once. You might consider getting one. If nothing else, it could be a big help when attempting to avoid having the stealership running up your bill with unnecessary test charges when you show him printed pages showing that you are watching what he is doing. Regardless, the only advantage he has is the Honda Diagnostic system that they can connect to your OBD-2 port, which actually makes it easier and simpler to diagnose and therefore no justification for high testing charges. In fact, I would require that they do the diagnosing free and only pay for parts and labor for the repair, since it is their job to figure it out - why should I pay them extra for that? Nope.


Anyways, I hope any of this helps.
I have the exact same problem as OP. It's driving me insane. All 4 sensors on the wheels are original, and test out just fine. Both Discount Tire and Honda have tried to resync them to no avail. I took the car to Honda, and they told me I need 4 new sensors. I have 4 new sensors (6 months old) from my snow tire wheels (no tires on them), so i pulled them off my snow wheels and had Discount Tire sync them. The light is still flashing. I hoped it would stop flashing, and tell me I had low tire pressure.

Kloker/Larry can you give me more information about your quote above? It just need this damn light to slop blinking. Where is the TPMS control unit in the left side of the dash? I'll just unplug the damn thing. I'm not spending $700 to get a light to stop flashing. I don't need the damn TPMS system.
 

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Based upon a description of the control module being on the left side under the dash, and some random internet pictures of what it looks for, including the tell-tell sign that it has FCC markings on it, I found the unit and unplugged it. Now the low pressure light is out, and the TPMS light is solid. I consider this solved.
 

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You can remove that bulb. That quote above was directly from the service manual, and comes off of just one page out of the section on troubleshooting all this, which is many pages long! So, yeah, I could be more specific, but I'm not sure it would help, as it goes from there in umpteen different directions, depending on testing results. If I wind up at this point one day, I will go to a wrecking yard and see if I can get a used one cheap. I think these things rarely go out so chances are likely to be good it would work. If that didn't work I'd just take that tiny bulb out and watch the cows come home. This is a lot of hassle on an over-complicated system that is just there to protect people from an inability to check their tires. If I got by without it for over 40 years with 18 tires, I'll be okay with just 4.


This is another reason I wouldn't touch a Gen5. All that blind spot and lane minding crap just lets people avoid taking responsibility for their own safe driving practices and skills. If that's the best they can do they should cut up their driver's licenses and call a cab, because they have no business driving. Also, all that complexity is just more completely unwanted gibberish to fail and cost big bucks to fix. Of course, I'm old and I can easily say that I won't ever buy a car with that crap on it. You younger folks are in for a lifetime of it. All I can do there is say good luck. Oh, and the tire monitoring system on those new models is worth poop.
 
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