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First oil change was the dealer. The second one I did myself. I found one of the fasteners for the lower engine cover to be missing. Rattled out? Dealership forgot it?
The other fasteners were already corroded.
I’m getting the feeling replacing these will be the norm in the coming years if I already experienced this at 1 year. Anyone else have a similar experience?
 

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I lost one of the 3 threaded bolts. Added lock washers to all 3, no problems since. The 1/4 or 1/2 turn fasteners are fine, no loss. I bought a couple extra of the threaded bolts (and lock washers) at the local hardware and keep 'em in the glove box, just in case. I'm lucky, nothing rusts/corrodes in the desert.
 

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It's easy to knock loose the U-shaped clips. They have barbs that are supposed to bite into the plastic. You can get generic black phosphate U-Nuts for cheap at a hardware store. I think they are 5mm or 6mm. Best to bring a clip and the screw to match up. It may cost a little more at an auto parts store. Honda OEMs will set you back $2-$3 a piece. I have the same issue on my 2014. I have not seen corrosion though.
 

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1997, 2002, 2017 my expertese lies there
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yeah I tie wrapped till I got 10mm bolts that perfectly fit for me no more loosing them. part number is in the thread I made here Lol
 

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2017 CR-V EX-L AWD, Built in Ohio.
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I had issues when I did my first oil change. I destroyed the center one.
 

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A small amount of water reaching/entering that high suction intake......turn out the lights, the party is over.

That pan keeps the motor oil and tranny fluid from getting on your garage floor.:whistle:

I ran around town this past summer with the pan off for about 3 weeks wondering if the lack of it would lower tranny temps any.......it didn't. Pan back on.
 

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The cover is there for mostly aerodynamic purposes...clean air flow.

The only harm would be more items corroding a little faster from winter time salt spray.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that Pozi Drive (PZ) drive works very well with JIS style drives. I always thought PZ was the American knock off of JIS or vise-versa. Not sure.
 

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Is it the same way for the grille shutters......mostly for aerodynamics?

Splash protection could/would be a side effect of the cover.
 

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Is it the same way for the grille shutters......mostly for aerodynamics?

Splash protection could/would be a side effect of the cover.
Yeah, grill shutters are all about aero.

Side effect to resist road spray at high speed when they are closed...unknown. Sure seems like that would help.
 

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Yeah, grill shutters are all about aero.

Side effect to resist road spray at high speed when they are closed...unknown. Sure seems like that would help.

It's not "all about aero" according to Honda. (see lemon law thread)

Splash protection was in reference to the cover under the motor.
 

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^^^^:doublethumb::doublethumb:^^^^
 

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I'd like to purchase a few JIS type screwdrivers to keep in my toolbox. What sizes should I be purchasing? P0 through P3? I know people have used regular phillips type screwdrivers to remove some of these fasteners, but I'm interested in purchasing the correct tool for the job. I'm looking at the Vessel 900 series tools.
Do I also need an impact type P3 to remove the rotor bolt?
 

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What you want is PZ type not P (P is standard)

911 was also right, a standard #3 (P3) works very well in those pan screws.

Same for the rotor screws (used to be 2 per) I've only been using standard P3's for as long as I can remember. And yes, I'd have an impact driver bit on hand just in case. Use anti-seize on them once removed and do not torque beyond 20 in/lbs.
 

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Need to clarify something! Among posts including my own, there may be mixed PZ and PH size recommendations.

PZ2 and PH3 are the best fit for the underbelly pan and rotor screws.

PZ = Pozidrive, specs out nearly identical to JIS. (Japan vs USA)
PH = Phillips.


PZ3 fits, but not well. Flutes are too wide.
PH2 fits, but tapered thin flutes promote stripping.
 

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I added split washers under the heads of those 3 bolts......they keep the 3 bolts snug and don't have to crank them down quite as tight, so they are easy to remove the next time.
 

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I bought my 2017 touring used but certified from the local Honda dealer. On the list of things done was a oil and filter change. The dealer offered 2 free oil changes, but after a number of problems I have had with dealerships and oil changes, it is worth it to me to just do myself. Well I did my first change and to my surprise I found a wood screw in place of one of the correct screws. When the car goes in for the fix, I will be sure to give them an ear full about what I found.
From what I could find you can't buy just the screw, you have to get the whole bottom plate kit to get the correct screw. If I remember I used a 10mm bolt with a washer that worked just fine.
 

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..............From what I could find you can't buy just the screw, you have to get the whole bottom plate kit to get the correct screw. If I remember I used a 10mm bolt with a washer that worked just fine.

Local hardware store has the metric threaded bolts. Might have to get those 1/4 turn fasteners at the dealership......but I don't think anyone has reported loosing those, just the threaded bolts.
 
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