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Discussion starter · #81 ·
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Discussion starter · #82 ·
Got the head back. Should have had them take the intake gasket remnants off. Holy cow, over an hour to scrape that crap off. I couldn't get the wheel, so had to do it the old fashion way. Put the HG on, mounted the intake to the head, and dropped the head in place. Tomorrow comes torquing it down, and hooking everything up. Sully approves of my work.
 

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Discussion starter · #84 ·
I agree. They are definitely stuck on there
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
and it runs. Need to hook up power steering and cruise control, but all looks good so far. Ran it up to temp, top hose did not get rock hard, no water is mixing with oil. I think it's almost complete.
 
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Discussion starter · #88 ·
All back together, oil changed. still need steering rack boots and tires, and it's complete.
 

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Discussion starter · #90 ·
Fans work, no leaks. it didn't overheat, but was pushing a tiny bit of exhaust into the coolant. very small amount. I saw bubbles once, but I had just filled it, so thought maybe it was an air pocket. Good to go now, upper hose doesn't get rock hard.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
No, not the whole rack. just the boots are torn and need to be replaced before it becomes a project. Changing the oil I saw a Honda filter on it. Must have been dealer maintained?
 
Mine was dealer maintainedish... however over 20 years all they did was oil changes. 124k later and the timing belt finally broke. We have been telling the guy for years he's past due. Finally caught up to him and I bought it with bents valves for 200 bucks. Yes imo oem filters are the best but that doesn't mean it was well maintained. Trans fluid and rear diff will be the next important things to do if you have not already done them. But 100% use only honda oem fluids for those.

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Discussion starter · #94 ·
Well, that was a short lived victory. Took it down the road, and came back and top rad hose was hard as a rock again. Took off the rad cap, and it's bubbling like crazy. I guess the good news is it's not going into the oil. I did not have the head pressure checked, just had the oil seals replaced. Guess I should have had them test the head. So pissed. Now the question is do I do it all over again, or just sell it like it is cheap.
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
I really hate inanimate objects beating my ass. I will pull the head, and take it in to be tested. maybe it's cracked and I didn't see it? Maybe i just like doing things twice. Thought about just adding 5 pounds of torque, but if I have to do all that work to access the head bolts, may as well just remove it and bring it in. If nothing else, I have another B series in Frack....
 
I'd just pull the head and have it checked. Anytime you remove a head it should at the very least be resurfaced so it's perfectly flat. That alone could be causing your issues.

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Did the shop machine the block's surface? I agree--maybe it should be pressure tested.

I've read of complaints of some of the aftermarket head gaskets on the D-series. I don't know if that translate to the B-series at all, but it's possible. I went with a Mahle since I'd read of a few who had used Fel-Pro and had leaks not too long after replacement. No issues with mine so far.
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
I did not have them machine the head. Dumb mistake, but I didn't think it needed it. I'll get back at it. Took the heads off of the Pilot, and things there are not good. So, not a good week so far.
 
Not a good week to take an engine apart? 😁

I have to redo the Civic to replace the piston rings and hone the cylinders, and I'm debating having the machine shop check the head while it's off. It has less than 2,000 miles on it but still, I don't want to have to redo this again if it turns out the head wasn't completely level. I guess it takes very little for a head not to be completely flat, and it's nothing we can see with the naked eye. (And I don't have any accurate flat edges here to visually check it with.)
 
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