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We have a 2006 Honda CRV SE AWD. Automatic transmission with 200,000 miles. I started driving it around 160,000 and don't have service history before that. Currently there are two issues I would like anyone's input on.

1) In 2017 we installed all new KYB strut assemblies front and back and had the car aligned. The previous suspension had been shot for quite some time. However, regardless of that the tires have always worn evenly. Right after the new struts were installed it started pulling to the right (worse at high speed) which I learned is called PTTR. I took the car back in, they realigned, but it still pulled. They said we had some play in our steering rack and it was worn more on one side than the other. They also said they thought we had a "radial pull" problem, but the tires were only 1-2 years old so didn't replace them. We lived with the pull until this year when we brought it into another mechanic. They said our outer tie rods had a 1/4" of play and needed to be replaced. They installed new outer tie rods, aligned the wheels, and the car still pulled. We took it back in, they said the alignment machine was not calibrated correctly and redid the alignment. It still pulls, but now it is a "memory" pull. After a hard left turn it drives straight, but after a hard right (90 degree for example) it pulls hard to the right. Mechanic jacked up the car, disconnected the out tie rods from the steering knuckle and was able to move the steering rack freely. When they connected the wheels again, they said they were able to turn the wheels left and right, but from a hard right position back to center there was a lot of resistance. Their only suggestion is to replace the entire rack and pinion unit.

Does it sound like they correctly diagnosed the problem? The pulling started with the new strut assemblies, and I have read other users talk about an improper spring seat position shipped with KYB strut assemblies. I also read the Honda TSB reports on that, but only found them for 2002-2003 and 2005 year models. Maybe there are multiple issues going on here?

2) The most recent mechanic that just replaced the outer tie rods this year also recommended a rear differential fluid change. I do not know unfortunately if this fluid has ever been changed on this vehicle. The automatic transmission fluid, and subsequently front differential fluid, was changed less than 10,000 miles ago. The day after the rear fluid change it started making a knocking type of rotational sound. New brakes and rotors were installed 10-12,000 miles ago. It only makes the sound when very very light braking pressure is applied. If you push on the brakes even remotely hard it goes away. At super low speed it has a bit of a grind sound. The mechanic has heard the sound but they are unable to diagnosis it after a thorough inspection of brakes, suspension etc.

Could it be related to the rear differential fluid change or is it something else?

Thanks in advance for anyone's help!
 

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My 05 SE pulled to the right constantly, after alignments, new brakes, new tires, tie rods, etc. While it was a great car for me around town and long trips, it committed suicide a few months ago, a loud clunk, front passenger wheel sideways, a reflexive correction to miss a parked car, and flipped on its left side. Insurance totaled it (though I was going 15-20 mph on my own street in a rainstorm, just panel damage but the curtain airbags deployed, and that's an automatic total these days). I took photos as it was lifted to be towed, and my mechanic saw a split (from manufacture, no rust) in the subframe on the right front. This had allowed flexing to put pressure on the control arms. The left one was cracking last fall before my trip to the west coast, we'd replaced it, all good. There was no reason to suspect the right one to go (until.we spotted the vertical split after the fact) which is what caused the accident, thank goodness not on the highway.
That said, knowing it was a fluke, I recently bought an 06.
What I've noticed is that they are very sensitive to the crown, or tilt, of the pavement. If I am in the right lane, it soon pulls to the right. If I'm on the left side of a 4-lane, it drifts to the left. But in the center of a 5 lane road, it tracks straight for 20-30 seconds before wandering, as any car will do with hands off the wheel. I think the flaw in the 05 was rare as hen's teeth, which is why I immediately started looking for the same car. But just in case.. this was my experience
 

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We have a 2006 Honda CRV SE AWD. Automatic transmission with 200,000 miles. I started driving it around 160,000 and don't have service history before that. Currently there are two issues I would like anyone's input on.

1) In 2017 we installed all new KYB strut assemblies front and back and had the car aligned. The previous suspension had been shot for quite some time. However, regardless of that the tires have always worn evenly. Right after the new struts were installed it started pulling to the right (worse at high speed) which I learned is called PTTR. I took the car back in, they realigned, but it still pulled. They said we had some play in our steering rack and it was worn more on one side than the other. They also said they thought we had a "radial pull" problem, but the tires were only 1-2 years old so didn't replace them. We lived with the pull until this year when we brought it into another mechanic. They said our outer tie rods had a 1/4" of play and needed to be replaced. They installed new outer tie rods, aligned the wheels, and the car still pulled. We took it back in, they said the alignment machine was not calibrated correctly and redid the alignment. It still pulls, but now it is a "memory" pull. After a hard left turn it drives straight, but after a hard right (90 degree for example) it pulls hard to the right. Mechanic jacked up the car, disconnected the out tie rods from the steering knuckle and was able to move the steering rack freely. When they connected the wheels again, they said they were able to turn the wheels left and right, but from a hard right position back to center there was a lot of resistance. Their only suggestion is to replace the entire rack and pinion unit.

Does it sound like they correctly diagnosed the problem? The pulling started with the new strut assemblies, and I have read other users talk about an improper spring seat position shipped with KYB strut assemblies. I also read the Honda TSB reports on that, but only found them for 2002-2003 and 2005 year models. Maybe there are multiple issues going on here?

2) The most recent mechanic that just replaced the outer tie rods this year also recommended a rear differential fluid change. I do not know unfortunately if this fluid has ever been changed on this vehicle. The automatic transmission fluid, and subsequently front differential fluid, was changed less than 10,000 miles ago. The day after the rear fluid change it started making a knocking type of rotational sound. New brakes and rotors were installed 10-12,000 miles ago. It only makes the sound when very very light braking pressure is applied. If you push on the brakes even remotely hard it goes away. At super low speed it has a bit of a grind sound. The mechanic has heard the sound but they are unable to diagnosis it after a thorough inspection of brakes, suspension etc.

Could it be related to the rear differential fluid change or is it something else?

Thanks in advance for anyone's help!
Bad diff fluid on 4 wheel drive models can cause a grinding noise when turning the steering to the extreme left or right and could also impact roadability. Diff fluid should be clear not dirty, so good idea to replace the diff oil (original Honda) on high mileage cars.....
Regards
Rudy
 
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