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I just purchased a 2014 CRV for flat towing behind a motorhome. In reading the owner's manual I can't find any info on the mileage interval for oil changes. There is only the maintenance indicator on the information display. Does anyone know what this mileage interval is?
 

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It really depends on how you drive. The MM takes into account how your drive and the conditions and determines when you need an oil change.
 

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There isn't one, only time, BUT...

I just purchased a 2014 CRV for flat towing behind a motorhome. In reading the owner's manual I can't find any info on the mileage interval for oil changes. There is only the maintenance indicator on the information display. Does anyone know what this mileage interval is?
No mileage stated for engine oil, use MM, BUT not more than a year.

However, when towed there is a critical procedure you MUST adhere to for the transmission for EVERY 8 HOURS of towing, and "*4: If you tow your vehicle behind a motorhome, the transmission fluid must be changed every 2 years or 30,000 miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first." (Quote from page 291 of 2012 Owners Manual)
 

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As the guys have stated, you asked the question with no one answer. My problem with the MM is the tech package often tells me incorrect info esp. when it comes to miles left before empty - always wrong. If unsure, error on the conservative because it's cheap in relation to engine damage !! Craig
 

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I have a 2015 EX and am planning to use Mobil1 0W-20 Extended Performance as I did on my previous vehicle. Its guaranteed for 15k miles so has anyone tried using this oil for the full 15k. I'm sure the MM would light up well before 15k miles.
 

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2012 V LX...I change the oil with full synthetic between 3000 and 4000 miles...I change the oil less than three times per year as I don't put a lot of miles on it so the mileage is not the true change indicator in my case.
 

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I'm new to the maintenance minder regime, and have put 1500 miles on in under two weeks. The MM is at 85%.most miles have been highway but there is no way I will go 9k between oil changes. My old Pilot has a 7500 oil interval change and 220kmiles
 

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MM is not linear...

I'm new to the maintenance minder regime, and have put 1500 miles on in under two weeks. The MM is at 85%.most miles have been highway but there is no way I will go 9k between oil changes. My old Pilot has a 7500 oil interval change and 220kmiles
The % oil life remaining is not linear to 15%. After around 50% it will decrease at an increasing rate, and after 15% it drops quickly. From my experience on an '07 with 90K, with 85% at 1,500 miles, I will guess yours will hit 15% around 7,000 to 8,000 miles.
 

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I change mine every 5K, and ignore the maintenance minder.
DIY nailed it - I'm doing mine this weekend at about 5K as well. I'd never let it go longer than that. Dirt is dirt and no matter how hyped your brand of oil may be, it still needs to be changed in a timely fashion. The old cliche about "cheap insurance" seems to hold water for me but I'm old fashioned. 5 qts of Mobil 1 at W-M is like $23 and filters around $5 seems to me to be a small price to pay for longevity of an engine !! Craig
 

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The % oil life remaining is not linear to 15%. After around 50% it will decrease at an increasing rate, and after 15% it drops quickly. From my experience on an '07 with 90K, with 85% at 1,500 miles, I will guess yours will hit 15% around 7,000 to 8,000 miles.
Yup. Once I stop doing so many highway miles, things will change.
 

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Just to add to this post, what oil weight is recommended, or should I use?

For my 2015 CRV EX, the specs say either "Genuine Honda Motor Oil" 0W-20 or API Premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil. Should I worry which type and viscosity? Live in Las Vegas, so it does get hot in the summer, sometimes 110*F +..............
 

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Just to add to this post, what oil weight is recommended, or should I use?

For my 2015 CRV EX, the specs say either "Genuine Honda Motor Oil" 0W-20 or API Premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil. Should I worry which type and viscosity? Live in Las Vegas, so it does get hot in the summer, sometimes 110*F +..............
0W-20 as the manual states.
 

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New to this as well with my daughter's 2013 CRV purchased in January of this year.

MM says 60% after 3k miles and 6 months. I scanned thru the owners manual and it simply says to follow the MM, with no mention of time or mileage. Does anybody have an idea exactly what inputs are factored into the MM % calculations?

What about time? My other vehicles have had a 7.5 month max. At this rate, she could go a year. Safe?

0W-20 oil.... Is Synthetic a requirement with this engine? Subaru & select Toyota motors are synthetic these days.

Thanks.
 

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It has a note...

New to this as well with my daughter's 2013 CRV purchased in January of this year.

MM says 60% after 3k miles and 6 months. I scanned thru the owners manual and it simply says to follow the MM, with no mention of time or mileage. Does anybody have an idea exactly what inputs are factored into the MM % calculations?

What about time? My other vehicles have had a 7.5 month max. At this rate, she could go a year. Safe?

0W-20 oil.... Is Synthetic a requirement with this engine? Subaru & select Toyota motors are synthetic these days.

Thanks.
It has a note that if the MM doesn't indicate Service Due, change oil/filter after one year.

Mobile1, 0W20, Full Synthetic is good stuff. Walmart usually has it for $26/5 quarts, but now is rolled back to $23.
 

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Thanks for the input. As an engineer, I'd still love to know more about the algorithm that determines the MM result.

I used M1 exclusively in my old Subaru, but with time it would leak out about as fast as I added it. ;-) Nothing against M1, it just is wetter than wet and found the weak spots in an engine series (EJ25-II) known for sealing surfaces in motion. I switched back to conventional HIGH MILEAGE oil towards the end, and the seal conditioners in that stuff (WalMart's house brand) did wonders in no time. I assume nobody has issues with M1 in these motors?
 

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...my daughter's 2013 CRV purchased in January of this year.

Does anybody have an idea exactly what inputs are factored into the MM % calculations?
Mileage, engine hours, coolant temp (MM % drops faster if it's cold outside).

These factors are more important than just miles alone.

For example, in the winter you may not be fully warming the engine during a 5 mile trip to work. So, corrosive condensation collects in the oil.

During the summer, the same trip is not as hard on the oil. The engine warms up faster and there is less condensation.



What about time? My other vehicles have had a 7.5 month max. At this rate, she could go a year. Safe?
Honda says "MM or ONE YEAR." So with the prevalence of synthetic oil in the recommended 0W-20 viscosity, it's safe. (But resetting the MM yearly makes it lose it's 'integrity' as regards the other services, which are based solely on mileage.)
0W-20 oil.... Is Synthetic a requirement with this engine? Subaru & select Toyota motors are synthetic these days.
As stated, almost all 0W-20 oil that is available is synthetic. (And indeed, synth is Factory Fill). Honda DEALERS sell a cheaper semi-synth 0W-20 for customers on a budget...
 

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Thanks for the input. As an engineer, I'd still love to know more about the algorithm that determines the MM result.

I used M1 exclusively in my old Subaru, but with time it would leak out about as fast as I added it. ;-) Nothing against M1, it just is wetter than wet and found the weak spots in an engine series (EJ25-II) known for sealing surfaces in motion. I switched back to conventional HIGH MILEAGE oil towards the end, and the seal conditioners in that stuff (WalMart's house brand) did wonders in no time. I assume nobody has issues with M1 in these motors?
The Algorithms? As I was recently accused of here on the forum, I think you are "overthinking" this. ;-)

But as a fellow overthinker, might I recommend you send your used oil in for an analysis that will give your actual numbers of how much life you have left in your oil (based largely on the TBN remaining). You could then compare this value against your Honda's computer and develop a correction (hopefully including color charts and graphs for the rest of us).

Your M1 sounds like it performed as it was intended to...the issue was your worn out seals, right?

M1 has worked most excellent in various engines of mine including my CR-V.
 
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