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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Mishimoto intercooler for 16+ 1.5t Civic's.

This is just the intercooler, no piping kit. Intercooler comes with piping adapters to work with the stock 16+ civic intercooler piping. Passenger side is plug and play. Driver side requires modification as the holes for the bolt threads don't line up. I cut off the flanges on both the adapter and the stock crv intercooler pipe so I could run my own coupler with worm gear hose clamps to attach the 2 pipes together.

Next, because of the size of the intercooler you have to remove the Lower Active Grille Shutter. Currently, there's no way to disable it. After it's removed, you have to also remove the the Grille Shutter actuator from the Active Grille Shutter frame (a few screws), it controls the fins. Relocate it underneath the Drivers side headlight, secure it with zip ties in and upright position, reconnect the wire harness to it so the computer still sees that its active, as if it were working normally. The ambient temp sensor is located on the top side of the lower grill shutter frame. It reads the air that passes by the "missing fin" on the top side of the grill shutters. Relocate that in front of the new intercooler as it were before with the oem setup.

The intercooler is about 1-1.5" shorts it's made for the 16+ civic, you'll notice this as the intercooler's drivers side rubber footing doesn't seat properly in the circular mount, and the drivers side charge piping is snug against the AC condenser. I wrapped that area of the charge pipe with heat wrap, just for peace of mind.

Other than that, It runs great, intake air Temps (IAT2) are within +8°f - 12°f of ambient Temps, even under prolonged max boost of 21-24psi.

Occasionally I would get an error, "active Grille Shutter problem, power reduced" (no boost limp mode) it thinks the shutters aren't working and to prevent the car from overheating, potentially, it takes away boost.

To reset, pull over, turn off engine for 3mins ,and it goes away.

Reached out to Hondata and Ktuner.

As a solution, I asked if they could disable the lower grill shutter in a future update, same way they disable the secondary o2 sensors for catless downpipes. One of them said they're not in the business of correcting mistakes, no help basically.

The other I'm still waiting for a reply.

No names, sorry.

How does it feel? Awesome I get max boost, no turbo lag, with the cooler air being compressed into the engine, it allows the ecu to advance the timing to the max, giving way to more power. Picks up quicker, throughout the entire powerband. It's awesome.

If you do it, as with all DIY's do it at your own risk.

I've had this for almost a month and I have NO REGRETS. Just wish I had more enthusiastic support from the top 2 tuners out there. Sadly, that's the only downside at this point.


What I have,
2017 CRV EX-L
Hondata dual tuned - max boost 24.3psi
Injen CAI (made for 17+ civic si)
RV-6 Catless Downpipe (made for 17 crv)
Mishimoto intercooler (made for 16 1.5t Civic's)
China/eBay running boards
China/eBay LED fog lights
Hondahack flashed head unit (Netflix ect)
Used LED Headlights from ebay
Modulo Piano Black upper Sport grille
harness for LED headlights by hardtopguy.com
Front & rear sport bumpers
Touring exhaust tips
China/eBay chrome door/bumper trim pieces
2017 Civic Hatchback Sport wheels
China/eBay LED illuminated door sills
OEM mid's/tweeter speakers from type R
China/eBay faux cup holder wood trim
 

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Dayum! That’s a lot of work.:doublethumb:

Would you happen to know if those crazy shutters are ever partially open, depending on driving conditions, or are they either fully closed or fully open?
 

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Awesome job!
I love how you have pushed the upper boundaries and then some with this engine! You have done just about everything possible except for changing the exhaust. I am not even sure how much gain you would get out of that anyway. I hope you keep visiting the forum and updated as the years pass, after all your setting the bar on power output.

I would love to try something like this, I have installed intercoolers before but my main concern is that this vehicle is under warranty and I just cannot risk making mods that are so obvious.

I am wondering how this will work in winter, I am not sure if your in a cold part of the world, I assume not? If you are I wonder if this will create problems since the engine will be even cooler than before, especially if those active shutters really do something.

Anyway great work, this thread is one that I will bookmark and come back to when my warranty is up.

BTW what was the IAT2 before you installed it? And btw a temporary solution is to just run an extension cable from the active shutter harness and put the active shutter in the back of the vehicle. You could make a nice wooden box for it to hold in so nothing damages it and the slats can move freely.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dayum! That’s a lot of work.<img src="http://www.triumphrat.net/images/smilies/doublethumb.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Double Thumb" class="inlineimg" />

Would you happen to know if those crazy shutters are ever partially open, depending on driving conditions, or are they either fully closed or fully open?
No clue, and thank you. I can finally afford to support my passion, after 20+ yrs, father of 2, type R was out of my price range, the surprise element of this car is beyond fun, and it looks good as well. The looks I get are half ass, the mom's love it, the guys give it a side eye stare with appreciation also trying to figure out what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome job!
I love how you have pushed the upper boundaries and then some with this engine! You have done just about everything possible except for changing the exhaust. I am not even sure how much gain you would get out of that anyway. I hope you keep visiting the forum and updated as the years pass, after all your setting the bar on power output.

I would love to try something like this, I have installed intercoolers before but my main concern is that this vehicle is under warranty and I just cannot risk making mods that are so obvious.

I am wondering how this will work in winter, I am not sure if your in a cold part of the world, I assume not? If you are I wonder if this will create problems since the engine will be even cooler than before, especially if those active shutters really do something.

Anyway great work, this thread is one that I will bookmark and come back to when my warranty is up.

BTW what was the IAT2 before you installed it? And btw a temporary solution is to just run an extension cable from the active shutter harness and put the active shutter in the back of the vehicle. You could make a nice wooden box for it to hold in so nothing damages it and the slats can move freely.

Rob
LOL, that's a great idea about relocating the grill shutter, if worse comes to worse right!

I live in THE O.C.

Should be safe for the snow/cold climates, think of the civic with the same motor, or the accord, no grill shutters and they have a traditional open style Grille.

Its only implemented in the crv because they're trying to use aerodynamics to improve mpgs, compact suv genre is hot with competition. Gotta get that extra 1mpg.

I too was worried about warranties, but I said what the hell.

I've heard on other forums that the dual exhaust is pretty well tuned as is, so your right it wouldn't net too many gains.

My last mod that I'm hoping for is two-step or anti lag, since I have a catless down pipe now.

Just waiting on the top 2 tuners to make it happen.
 

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Looks good, did gou spec out the injen intercooler?
Maybe smaller and less re rerouting?
Once my wifes work equinox shows up in two weeks, i’ll be doing hondata as well, cant wait lol
 

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I know that you buy Ktuner or Hondata and get their baseline tunes, but what do you do for retunes? Do you actually get a tune that can be specific to your vehicle?

With all of those intake and intercooler mods, I assume your fuel trims would need lots of adjustment.

Also, does the Injen intake actually fit well? Doesn't looked like the bracket in your picture is bolted to anything. I really want an intake, but want something that isn't flopping around.
 

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Mishimoto intercooler for 16+ 1.5t Civic's.

This is just the intercooler, no piping kit. Intercooler comes with piping adapters to work with the stock 16+ civic intercooler piping. Passenger side is plug and play. Driver side requires modification as the holes for the bolt threads don't line up. I cut off the flanges on both the adapter and the stock crv intercooler pipe so I could run my own coupler with worm gear hose clamps to attach the 2 pipes together.

Next, because of the size of the intercooler you have to remove the Lower Active Grille Shutter. Currently, there's no way to disable it. After it's removed, you have to also remove the the Grille Shutter actuator from the Active Grille Shutter frame (a few screws), it controls the fins. Relocate it underneath the Drivers side headlight, secure it with zip ties in and upright position, reconnect the wire harness to it so the computer still sees that its active, as if it were working normally. The ambient temp sensor is located on the top side of the lower grill shutter frame. It reads the air that passes by the "missing fin" on the top side of the grill shutters. Relocate that in front of the new intercooler as it were before with the oem setup.

The intercooler is about 1-1.5" shorts it's made for the 16+ civic, you'll notice this as the intercooler's drivers side rubber footing doesn't seat properly in the circular mount, and the drivers side charge piping is snug against the AC condenser. I wrapped that area of the charge pipe with heat wrap, just for peace of mind.

Other than that, It runs great, intake air Temps (IAT2) are within +8°f - 12°f of ambient Temps, even under prolonged max boost of 21-24psi.

Occasionally I would get an error, "active Grille Shutter problem, power reduced" (no boost limp mode) it thinks the shutters aren't working and to prevent the car from overheating, potentially, it takes away boost.

To reset, pull over, turn off engine for 3mins ,and it goes away.

Reached out to Hondata and Ktuner.

As a solution, I asked if they could disable the lower grill shutter in a future update, same way they disable the secondary o2 sensors for catless downpipes. One of them said they're not in the business of correcting mistakes, no help basically.

The other I'm still waiting for a reply.

No names, sorry.

How does it feel? Awesome I get max boost, no turbo lag, with the cooler air being compressed into the engine, it allows the ecu to advance the timing to the max, giving way to more power. Picks up quicker, throughout the entire powerband. It's awesome.

If you do it, as with all DIY's do it at your own risk.

I've had this for almost a month and I have NO REGRETS. Just wish I had more enthusiastic support from the top 2 tuners out there. Sadly, that's the only downside at this point.


What I have,
2017 CRV EX-L
Hondata dual tuned - max boost 24.3psi
Injen CAI (made for 17+ civic si)
RV-6 Catless Downpipe (made for 17 crv)
Mishimoto intercooler (made for 16 1.5t Civic's)
China/eBay running boards
China/eBay LED fog lights
Hondahack flashed head unit (Netflix ect)
Used LED Headlights from ebay
Modulo Piano Black upper Sport grille
harness for LED headlights by hardtopguy.com
Front & rear sport bumpers
Touring exhaust tips
China/eBay chrome door/bumper trim pieces
2017 Civic Hatchback Sport wheels
China/eBay LED illuminated door sills
OEM mid's/tweeter speakers from type R
China/eBay faux cup holder wood trim

Nice- does this affect your fuel economy?
 

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Mishimoto intercooler for 16+ 1.5t Civic's.

This is just the intercooler, no piping kit. Intercooler comes with piping adapters to work with the stock 16+ civic intercooler piping. Passenger side is plug and play. Driver side requires modification as the holes for the bolt threads don't line up. I cut off the flanges on both the adapter and the stock crv intercooler pipe so I could run my own coupler with worm gear hose clamps to attach the 2 pipes together.

Next, because of the size of the intercooler you have to remove the Lower Active Grille Shutter. Currently, there's no way to disable it. After it's removed, you have to also remove the the Grille Shutter actuator from the Active Grille Shutter frame (a few screws), it controls the fins. Relocate it underneath the Drivers side headlight, secure it with zip ties in and upright position, reconnect the wire harness to it so the computer still sees that its active, as if it were working normally. The ambient temp sensor is located on the top side of the lower grill shutter frame. It reads the air that passes by the "missing fin" on the top side of the grill shutters. Relocate that in front of the new intercooler as it were before with the oem setup.

The intercooler is about 1-1.5" shorts it's made for the 16+ civic, you'll notice this as the intercooler's drivers side rubber footing doesn't seat properly in the circular mount, and the drivers side charge piping is snug against the AC condenser. I wrapped that area of the charge pipe with heat wrap, just for peace of mind.

Other than that, It runs great, intake air Temps (IAT2) are within +8°f - 12°f of ambient Temps, even under prolonged max boost of 21-24psi.

Occasionally I would get an error, "active Grille Shutter problem, power reduced" (no boost limp mode) it thinks the shutters aren't working and to prevent the car from overheating, potentially, it takes away boost.

To reset, pull over, turn off engine for 3mins ,and it goes away.

Reached out to Hondata and Ktuner.

As a solution, I asked if they could disable the lower grill shutter in a future update, same way they disable the secondary o2 sensors for catless downpipes. One of them said they're not in the business of correcting mistakes, no help basically.

The other I'm still waiting for a reply.

No names, sorry.

How does it feel? Awesome I get max boost, no turbo lag, with the cooler air being compressed into the engine, it allows the ecu to advance the timing to the max, giving way to more power. Picks up quicker, throughout the entire powerband. It's awesome.

If you do it, as with all DIY's do it at your own risk.

I've had this for almost a month and I have NO REGRETS. Just wish I had more enthusiastic support from the top 2 tuners out there. Sadly, that's the only downside at this point.


What I have,
2017 CRV EX-L
Hondata dual tuned - max boost 24.3psi
Injen CAI (made for 17+ civic si)
RV-6 Catless Downpipe (made for 17 crv)
Mishimoto intercooler (made for 16 1.5t Civic's)
China/eBay running boards
China/eBay LED fog lights
Hondahack flashed head unit (Netflix ect)
Used LED Headlights from ebay
Modulo Piano Black upper Sport grille
harness for LED headlights by hardtopguy.com
Front & rear sport bumpers
Touring exhaust tips
China/eBay chrome door/bumper trim pieces
2017 Civic Hatchback Sport wheels
China/eBay LED illuminated door sills
OEM mid's/tweeter speakers from type R
China/eBay faux cup holder wood trim
I WANT A SOUND CLIP!!! easily the dopest crv build so far
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looks good, did gou spec out the injen intercooler?
Maybe smaller and less re rerouting?
Once my wifes work equinox shows up in two weeks, i’ll be doing hondata as well, cant wait lol
No. But the injen looks to be longer, but shorter in hieght. Routing would be the same, as it's made for the same platform (civic).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mishimoto intercooler for 16+ 1.5t Civic's.

This is just the intercooler, no piping kit. Intercooler comes with piping adapters to work with the stock 16+ civic intercooler piping. Passenger side is plug and play. Driver side requires modification as the holes for the bolt threads don't line up. I cut off the flanges on both the adapter and the stock crv intercooler pipe so I could run my own coupler with worm gear hose clamps to attach the 2 pipes together.

Next, because of the size of the intercooler you have to remove the Lower Active Grille Shutter. Currently, there's no way to disable it. After it's removed, you have to also remove the the Grille Shutter actuator from the Active Grille Shutter frame (a few screws), it controls the fins. Relocate it underneath the Drivers side headlight, secure it with zip ties in and upright position, reconnect the wire harness to it so the computer still sees that its active, as if it were working normally. The ambient temp sensor is located on the top side of the lower grill shutter frame. It reads the air that passes by the "missing fin" on the top side of the grill shutters. Relocate that in front of the new intercooler as it were before with the oem setup.

The intercooler is about 1-1.5" shorts it's made for the 16+ civic, you'll notice this as the intercooler's drivers side rubber footing doesn't seat properly in the circular mount, and the drivers side charge piping is snug against the AC condenser. I wrapped that area of the charge pipe with heat wrap, just for peace of mind.

Other than that, It runs great, intake air Temps (IAT2) are within +8°f - 12°f of ambient Temps, even under prolonged max boost of 21-24psi.

Occasionally I would get an error, "active Grille Shutter problem, power reduced" (no boost limp mode) it thinks the shutters aren't working and to prevent the car from overheating, potentially, it takes away boost.

To reset, pull over, turn off engine for 3mins ,and it goes away.

Reached out to Hondata and Ktuner.

As a solution, I asked if they could disable the lower grill shutter in a future update, same way they disable the secondary o2 sensors for catless downpipes. One of them said they're not in the business of correcting mistakes, no help basically.

The other I'm still waiting for a reply.

No names, sorry.

How does it feel? Awesome I get max boost, no turbo lag, with the cooler air being compressed into the engine, it allows the ecu to advance the timing to the max, giving way to more power. Picks up quicker, throughout the entire powerband. It's awesome.

If you do it, as with all DIY's do it at your own risk.

I've had this for almost a month and I have NO REGRETS. Just wish I had more enthusiastic support from the top 2 tuners out there. Sadly, that's the only downside at this point.


What I have,
2017 CRV EX-L
Hondata dual tuned - max boost 24.3psi
Injen CAI (made for 17+ civic si)
RV-6 Catless Downpipe (made for 17 crv)
Mishimoto intercooler (made for 16 1.5t Civic's)
China/eBay running boards
China/eBay LED fog lights
Hondahack flashed head unit (Netflix ect)
Used LED Headlights from ebay
Modulo Piano Black upper Sport grille
harness for LED headlights by hardtopguy.com
Front & rear sport bumpers
Touring exhaust tips
China/eBay chrome door/bumper trim pieces
2017 Civic Hatchback Sport wheels
China/eBay LED illuminated door sills
OEM mid's/tweeter speakers from type R
China/eBay faux cup holder wood trim

Nice- does this affect your fuel economy?
Not sure, I've been too busy heavy foot boosting, seriously, it's too much fun. It's funny because I bought this for its superior Mpg capabilities amongst its competitors in the segment, yet here I am enjoying as if it were a sports car.

Preliminary observations, no. Still get 36-40 Mpg on a flat road doing 70 mph in econ mode. Haven't hyper miled yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Neat Project!

<img src="http://www.triumphrat.net/images/smilies/applause.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Applause" class="inlineimg" />

But IDK if I have the guts to follow you...<img src="http://www.triumphrat.net/images/smilies/jawdrop1.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Jawdrop" class="inlineimg" />
Much appreciated. You only live once, and not many people know of how capable and good looking the new CRV is, I've had more than a few double takes. It's an awesome feeling. That's motivation in itself to try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dayum! That’s a lot of work.<img src="http://www.triumphrat.net/images/smilies/doublethumb.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Double Thumb" class="inlineimg" />

Would you happen to know if those crazy shutters are ever partially open, depending on driving conditions, or are they either fully closed or fully open?
From my observations and online research, it's either fully open or fully closed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I know that you buy Ktuner or Hondata and get their baseline tunes, but what do you do for retunes? Do you actually get a tune that can be specific to your vehicle?

With all of those intake and intercooler mods, I assume your fuel trims would need lots of adjustment.

Also, does the Injen intake actually fit well? Doesn't looked like the bracket in your picture is bolted to anything. I really want an intake, but want something that isn't flopping around.
Ktuner and Hondata has offered baseline tunes that are specific for our '17 1.5t CRV for almost a year now.

Retunes, or custom tunes are possible, just as with any other tune for civics accords ect. Hondata has a list of authorized tuners on their website, I go to church automotive in Wilmington, CA. I start with the off the shelf baseline tune for the crv, then just make adjustments after that.

Fuel trims were only off after the injen intake install, they're notorious for needing a tune to correct fuel trims. I didn't know that, I ran rich (-16 LTFT) I had my tuner adjust the AF scale to correct. It's better (-6LTFT), but I opted for the PRL cobra, install soon. It'll bring the FT's to where stock reading would be (-4 to 0).

Intercooler and DP didn't have any affect on FT's.

Injen CAI being secure. Since the intake is made for the 17 civic Si, the bracket didn't line up, however, the routing of the pipes were Damn near identical to the civic. And surprisingly, it doesn't move around much, if at all because the couplers keep everything in its place, it's a nice snug fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I WANT A SOUND CLIP!!! easily the dopest crv build so far

I second this motion.<img src="http://www.triumphrat.net/images/smilies/thumb.gif" border="0" alt="" title="thumb" class="inlineimg" />
Well thank you both. I'd love to, only issue I'm concerned with is properly picking up the audio to do it justice.

ALL of the noise/sounds comes from the intake from the induction of air under boost. It's loud, VERY loud. And even louder when boosting higher boost pressure, in my case 24 psi.

The intercooler didn't add much to the volume of the induction sound, perhaps if I opted for the piping kit with the intercooler it may have been louder.

Its IDENTICAL to the 2017 1.5t civic si, in terms of sound. Exactly the same. One day I'll stop being lazy and upload a video.
 

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Does the '17 Civic SI have that goofy plastic box on top of the motor? I took it off our CRV, couldn't tell any difference in sound/performance, so I put it back on. I thought the motor looked better without it.
 

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Ktuner and Hondata has offered baseline tunes that are specific for our '17 1.5t CRV for almost a year now.

Retunes, or custom tunes are possible, just as with any other tune for civics accords ect. Hondata has a list of authorized tuners on their website, I go to church automotive in Wilmington, CA. I start with the off the shelf baseline tune for the crv, then just make adjustments after that.

Fuel trims were only off after the injen intake install, they're notorious for needing a tune to correct fuel trims. I didn't know that, I ran rich (-16 LTFT) I had my tuner adjust the AF scale to correct. It's better (-6LTFT), but I opted for the PRL cobra, install soon. It'll bring the FT's to where stock reading would be (-4 to 0).

Intercooler and DP didn't have any affect on FT's.

Injen CAI being secure. Since the intake is made for the 17 civic Si, the bracket didn't line up, however, the routing of the pipes were Damn near identical to the civic. And surprisingly, it doesn't move around much, if at all because the couplers keep everything in its place, it's a nice snug fit.
Thanks for the info. I feel like the majority of owners on here have no idea how to do any of this and will just throw the Injen intake on and not understand that the fuel trims will have the potential to cause real damage long term without a retune. At -+ 15% they should set a lean/rich code too.

PRL Intake definitely looks good. But man these things are expensive.
 
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