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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 CR-V bought new. Base 2.5 5 speed automatic. I am an old man and I drive carefully. For a year I have been watching gas mileage go down the tube. I am at 93,000 miles and down to 24.8 MPG by the dashboard. I was happier at 28.8 MPG. Closing in on a 20% drop. :(

I have checked all the simple stuff first, you know check to see if the inoperative lamp is plugged in first...

I got my tires up to Door Jamb plus 2 PSI all around. Screwed in a new set of plugs, I use the same Mobile1 0-20 since I drove it home. Same gas station going through seasonal reformulation for a year.

I am going to increase the 'every six months' of Techron Injector Cleaner to 'every tank' and see if I can blow the snot out of the mist makers. The car is 100% OEM, I have plugged in a GPS once in a while. ECON doesn't fix anything and still is about 1 1/2 MPG increase but turn that off on bumper to bumper freeway creeping.

Valve adjustment is closing in on my radar, a nice warm day may trigger that event. I'll order a Valve cover gasket 'slowest cheapest' shipping. My tush won't be out there soon.

Any one else chasing mileage restoration? Got comments?
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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10,303 Posts
You are doing everything right (including the imminent valve lash adjustment).

Perhaps, have the O2 sensor readings monitored by an OBDII reader. (The Bank 1, pre-cat sensor, could be 'slowing down'...becoming less responsive to its measurement of O2.) If you don't care to learn this yourself, a shop could do those diagnostics.

Good Luck.
 
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While intake valve deposit is rare on Honda 2.4 Liter engines it is not unheard of, especially with over 80,000 miles. And too much carbon on the intake valves will reduce you gas mileage. Actually one of the signs of it is the gas mileage getting worse as time goes on because as time goes on the build up gets worse.

If your mechanic has a bore scope, you might have them check the intake valves for carbon build-up.

Personally I am very much against any attempt to clean intake valves while the head is still on the engine. There is just too much chance of damaging the cylinder walls and piston seals with loose carbon if it does knock it free of the intake valves. And if that happens you are talking about major repairs of replacing the block and pistons, basically you will need a whole new engine, which is a heck of a lot more expensive than just pulling the head and cleaning the valves when the head is off the engine. So if the problem is too much carbon on the intake valves, the safe and proper way to clean them is the more labor intensive method of removing the head and having them cleaned while the head is off the engine.

So if your mechanic does find too much carbon on the intake valves, do not fall for any low cost offers of using some kind of cleaner. Doing that is taking a major chance of severe engine damage.
 

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2016 CRV Touring AWD
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I recently recorded the lowest mpg ever in my 2016.

Its winter, with winter fuel and most of my trips this last month (that's how long a tank is lasting me right now) were really short. My MPG was 23.7. This is hand calculated using Fuelly.

Best ever mpg was 35.7 in summer on a pure non stop interstate trip no AC, careful not to speed. Started with a full tank 100 yards from an interstate and refuelled 300 yards off the interstate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I recently recorded the lowest mpg ever in my 2016.

Its winter, with winter fuel and most of my trips this last month (that's how long a tank is lasting me right now) were really short. My MPG was 23.7. This is hand calculated using Fuelly.

Best ever mpg was 35.7 in summer on a pure non stop interstate trip no AC, careful not to speed. Started with a full tank 100 yards from an interstate and refuelled 300 yards off the interstate.
These are my numbers exactly in a 2014 AT-5 speed.
 

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What I've noticed about Hondas is that they do adapt to how you drive. They adjust for performance or efficiency -- depending on how you drive. There is really a lot of sophistication going on in these computers.

The biggest things about fuel economy are that you

1. maintain air pressure
2. keep fuel fresh
3. change your air filters
4. drive efficiently -- but don't starve the CVT for torque
5. use cruise control -- often
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What I've noticed about Hondas is that they do adapt to how you drive. They adjust for performance or efficiency -- depending on how you drive. There is really a lot of sophistication going on in these computers.

The biggest things about fuel economy are that you

1. maintain air pressure
2. keep fuel fresh
3. change your air filters
4. drive efficiently -- but don't starve the CVT for torque
5. use cruise control -- often
I do all that. One thing I can tell you from experience is, don't believe the 'Range miles' display. Calculate your own MPG if you want real answers.

At any given moment I can add the Range display to the trip odometer and it should come up 410 miles total in the city, or 455 total on the Highway for a state or two. Try it and reconfirm your car's MPG with a paper and pencil for a dozen tanks. I always leave 100 miles range in the tank when I refill. So 310 miles traveled and 100 on Range and it is reading right. I have seen it show 45 MPG and 20 MPG. I can't believe them both.

Since I started this thread, Techron has brought the MPG display up a honest 1 MPG.
 

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What I've noticed about Hondas is that they do adapt to how you drive. They adjust for performance or efficiency -- depending on how you drive. There is really a lot of sophistication going on in these computers.

The biggest things about fuel economy are that you

1. maintain air pressure
2. keep fuel fresh
3. change your air filters
4. drive efficiently -- but don't starve the CVT for torque
5. use cruise control -- often
Can you elaborate on not starving the CVT of torque and the benefits?
Thanks

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 

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Can you elaborate on not starving the CVT of torque and the benefits?
Thanks

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Since the CVT is a pulley system that transfers torque -- in a different way -- you should lean into the throttle from a stop instead of being too light on the throttle. You can feel the CVT spooling up after the torque converter launches you -- and it is very apparent. By leaning into the throttle, you're giving the CVT more torque and less spool time, but too much throttle, and you have the opposite effect. It's a happy medium. Less spool time means better MPG.
 

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I have a 2014 CR-V bought new. Base 2.5 5 speed automatic. I am an old man and I drive carefully. For a year I have been watching gas mileage go down the tube. I am at 93,000 miles and down to 24.8 MPG by the dashboard. I was happier at 28.8 MPG. Closing in on a 20% drop. :(

I have checked all the simple stuff first, you know check to see if the inoperative lamp is plugged in first...

I got my tires up to Door Jamb plus 2 PSI all around. Screwed in a new set of plugs, I use the same Mobile1 0-20 since I drove it home. Same gas station going through seasonal reformulation for a year.

I am going to increase the 'every six months' of Techron Injector Cleaner to 'every tank' and see if I can blow the snot out of the mist makers. The car is 100% OEM, I have plugged in a GPS once in a while. ECON doesn't fix anything and still is about 1 1/2 MPG increase but turn that off on bumper to bumper freeway creeping.

Valve adjustment is closing in on my radar, a nice warm day may trigger that event. I'll order a Valve cover gasket 'slowest cheapest' shipping. My tush won't be out there soon.

Any one else chasing mileage restoration? Got comments?
nm
 
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