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CRV EX 2004 Petrol/Manual 4WD
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Glove compartment light bulb replacement fail.

The case the bulb sits in is not only hard to reach, when you do eventually get it unscrewed, there's a lip on it which I suppose is deigned to dim the light a bit, or hide the bulb from direct view.

Its the same size bulb as the interior dome bulbs, getting it out is fiddly, putting the new one in even more so. You can see in this picture that it should fit fine, but the clips that hold it in place are very stiff. I did eventually get it in, though possibly breaking the led itself in the process, I don't think so, but when I turned the car on, the led did not light up. Tried playing with the switch but nothing. Boo.

Circuit component Engineering Electronic engineering Electrical wiring Computer hardware


I find the glove box a bit shoddy and flimsy to be honest. There isn't a nice smooth opening, it just drops and bounces a bit. There is some kind of mechanism on the upper right side so maybe this needs fixing.

I think one thing for sure is I'm going to need a new LED case / trigger. Probably some aftermarket thing. Low priority.

Getting the FOB / key / driver door lock barrel sorted is a higher priority. Locking the car with the FOB takes a few tries. The key itself doesn't turn in the door at all. Assume the barrel bits are worn or broken inside.

As for the wood effect - Have you considered hydro dipping? - How to Hydro Dip at Home: Hydro Dipping for Beginners | Liquid Concepts
I hadn't! That would be pretty cool for a range of effects I reckon. I have something quite specific in mind with the wood though.

OK well the glove box light replacement fail was worse than expected.

Drove to London and back this afternoon, noticed that when I turned the car off with parking light still on I didn't get the usual beep noise reminder to switch them off.

Then I noticed the instrument cluster wasn't lighting up when I had my parking lights on. (do most cars even have parking lights?)

Looking into it further when I got home, most of the backlights for the switches on my dash were not working:
  • Climate control backlights (the ones I had replaced with LEDs, not the 3 small ones which illuminate when you press the button)
  • Heated seats buttons backlights (not the green diode that wasn't replaced] when yo press the buttons in, that worked fine)
  • Most of the instrument cluster backlights (the ones for the dials, some of the normal error lights worked)
  • Sunroof switch backlight
  • Headlight height control backlight
  • Parking lights themselves on the exterior.
  • Ashtray light
  • ... and fairly crucially the number plate lights
  • (the glove compartment light though I didn't suss this until the end)

Not good. Parking lights, number plate lights, and instrument cluster lights are vital for driving at night.

Strangely the AUTO driver's electric window control light worked.

So I came to the conclusion I must have shorted / blown a fuse when trying to fit the glove compartment light. Makes a lot of sense. What is hard to make sense of though is the fuse box diagrams in the car, and online for that matter. They don't really give you a detailed understanding of what each fuse is actually associated with. It's more like they give you a clue. But not the answer.

Eventually found this link which gives a lot more info on each fuse. I've actually saved this page as a PDF as we can't trust the internet not to "forget" information I've learned. Will maybe start a thread here one day which gives an even more detailed breakdown of my car's specific fuse circuits.

(Got the link from this thread on crvownersclub.com. This site actually has a load of useful info on it, the search feature could probably be better though. i ended up using "site:crvownersclub.com" in my google searches to better search this site. found loads of good threads of people with very similar, even maybe identical symptoms. However... lots of threads die out quickly with no satisfactory answer... even worse the OP will say they fixed the problem without saying how exactly! and the amount of mistakes people make is surprising, like referencing the wrong fuse number.)

Incidentally, I have no secondary fuse box under the bonnet. Just the big one, and of course the one under the dashboard.

The thing which crucially lead me to the answer was the number plate lights. I didn't think about these until I saw it mentioned on another thread related to other lights not working.

So long story short, from that link I could see the F2 fuse was a likely culprit: "(15A) Parking lamps (front), fog lamp switch, front side lamps, licence plate lamp, tail lamps, tailgate release relay, multifunction control module, instrument panel lamp(s)". It doesn't mention the glove compartment light, or specific switched I have on the dash. But it mentions everything else.

And indeed, when I removed it... it appeared indeed blown.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Ceiling Shade


Having removed it, I now deduce this a "mini" fuse (not "standard" or "low profile"). So will be ordering a bunch of replacements now.

Replaced the fuse, all working now. Phew!

In the fuse box under the bonnet, there are 5 spare mini fuses (7.5a, 10a, 15a, 20a, 30a). So I used the spare 15a. The spares are the minis not numbered on this diagram, which are the ones which are numbered 21 to 25 on this diagram.

Spoiler attachment progress... found the right search terms for what I needed... "rubber gasket sheet". These are available on eBay. I've ordered some, will cut them to fit the attachment area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Very good news today. A diamond geezer came round and regassed the AC. I have ICE COLD air con now.

So no black death! Question now is... do I swap out the compressor as a precaution against possible future black death?

The car was keys in but not running when he attached the freon thing with the meters, and the meters read zero pressure. So his guess was it had joust gradually leaked out over the years.

I was all prepared to have to rev up to 2500rpm as suggested in this video (which seems like a genuine AC fix for this generation of CRV... and possibly explains WHY the black death occurs in the first place). In hindsight, I should have revved up while the guy was adding gas, to see if the PSI dropped off at all.
 

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Very good news today. A diamond geezer came round and regassed the AC. I have ICE COLD air con now.

So no black death! Question now is... do I swap out the compressor as a precaution against possible future black death?

The car was keys in but not running when he attached the freon thing with the meters, and the meters read zero pressure. So his guess was it had joust gradually leaked out over the years.

I was all prepared to have to rev up to 2500rpm as suggested in this video (which seems like a genuine AC fix for this generation of CRV... and possibly explains WHY the black death occurs in the first place). In hindsight, I should have revved up while the guy was adding gas, to see if the PSI dropped off at all.
I never did when I had mine fixed. If it ain't broke and all that........
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Small update, as I'm largely waiting for bits and pieces to arrive.

The LEDs for the glove box and the centre ashtray arrived. The one I ordered for the glove box was frankly too long, see picture... however they fit in easily at a 90 degree angle, no shorting this time, and it works great, and it goes off when I close the glove box. Also note the black lip on the actual box thing that the bulb goes into can be removed making the job a lot less fiddly, it just pops off.
Sunglasses Gadget Wood Eyewear Bumper



The T5 286 3528 LED (whatever the heck all those numbers mean) fit fine into the ashtray light holder. Works great and goes off when the ashtray is closed.
Table Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor


I also took the time to replace the dead 10a fuse for the rear auxiliary power supply (looks like another cigarette lighter in the boot). Fuse 2 under the dashboard for me. Fiddly to get to due to wires in the way.

And I got a replacement mirror switch identical to the one I already have (that I half broke the heated mirror button for).
Liquid Fluid Wood Rectangle Hardwood


However, neither cigarette lighter work. Have tested with a multimeter. Red in the centre, black on the rim. Nothing. I can imagine the one in the boot is bust as I replaced it with one from the junk yard. Bit annoyed with the one at the front. But no bother... both will be replaced with USB ports that fit in nice with the trim at some point.

I also got a heat gun today. This was to have a go at reducing the scratches on the black plastic interior trim. There are tons of scratches in the boot, but quite a few elsewhere also. I have loads of spare bits from the junkyard so have practiced on them. Definitely works to remove minor scratches. Deeper scratches remain. Possible sanding deeper scratches a bit will help, so will try that soon.

Am waiting on a semi matt ArmourAll interior trim protectant to arrive. When it does I will apply it on the freshly heat gunned trim to preserve the finish better and for longer. Drawing up the oil from the plastic with the heat gun is limited by how much oil there is!

Am also waiting on the clear coat spray for the headlights. Will be polishing off the yellow as much as possible when that arrives.

I really need to get on with getting the wheels though. And the Toyo Open Country tires. They've gone up in price a bit and i want to get all 5.

And I need to figure out how to get the door opening to trigger specific LEDs I'm yet to buy... and the wood trim bits I want to custom make... and I plan on Plastidipping a few things (door handles, CRV emblem on the boot, iVTEC emblems on the wings, maybe the grey pillars inside and the AC control surround...

... hopefully more of an interesting update next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Good and bad news today guys.

First the good, finally got to see the exact model of my CRV on the V5 today! :cool:

Honda CR-V 2.0 i-VTEC Executive 5d (2004)
These were available new from December 2004 to October 2006.
So part of the 2nd generation, but the later end. And one of the first of the later end.

Executive Trim
Parkers.co.uk list the trims on this executive. There's...
  • the basic list (I've got everything on it)
  • the standard list (again, I've got everything on it)
  • the optional equipment, on this I only have:
    • Central locking
    • Rear electric windows
Unless it does have cruise control and I just don't know because the steering wheel has been replaced.

Owners manual
I don't have one. But I did find this site which appears to have a full archive of them. I downloaded these 2 considering my particular model was only sold from December 2004, so perhaps the 2005 manual is more apt?
Also these manuals seem to be quite generic, not especially specific to my particular model. Is that normal?

OK, now for the bad news... :confused:

Went for a drive today and the air conditioning was frankly not cold at all, not even slightly. It was just air. What does this mean? I'm guessing a leak. How much is that gonna cost to get seen to and mended?

Also, if my model came out in late 2004, does that mean my AC compressor is of a better quality than the earlier 2nd generation CRVs? I think I read that somewhere here... which maybe means less likely to suffer the black death?

More bad news, though not so bad. I spent an hour or so trying to fix a broken seam in the driver's leather seat. I bought a curved needle for the job especially.... but the lesson is to use STRONG thread. I sat on the seat today and all that fiddly work is undone. Oh well.

But lets not end this post on low points. There's more good news.

I purchased 3 second hand wheels to match the 2 I have on the front of my car. So I will have 5 x 15" CRV rims. Reading about my model today though, I think it was supposed to have come with 16" rims. I do have 16" rims on the back, but I'm pretty sure they're not CRV rims (look like they came from a civic). Now having acquired a full set of 15" rims... time for tyres!

I was looking at Toyo Open Country AT Plus 215/75/r15s... but I was told by a Ukrainian friend that these have bad wet performance, the tread not evacuating water well enough and their being a risk of aquaplaning. Not good as it floods round these parts. That's partly why I got this specific vehicle. Anyway, researching a bit more i discover the Toyo OCs come in 3 AT versions:
  • AT2
  • AT3
  • AT Plus
The first 2 seem to be only available on the american market and indeed the AT2s are slated for wet performance. But the AT3s perform a LOT better. However, we only have access to the AT Plus range. And it's hard to gauge wet performance of these as reviews online tend to cover the US ranges.

So I've been looking at alternatives. Falken Wildpeak A/T AT3WA in 215/75/15 100/79R. This tyre stands out, sounds to be wildly popular. And while perhaps more geared to offroad than the Toyos, road performance seems to be pretty good still, and with much better wet performance. So I'm inquiring about a deal on these right now.

Alos bought some roof bars that are supposed to be compatible with my model of CRV and a roof rack to mount on top of them (MaxxHaul 150lbs).

So essentially I have everything needed to give the vehicle the appearance I want more or less.

Today if it cools down I might have a go at leaning the headlights again with compound on a drill mounted buffer. Then seal with headlight clear coat. If it still looks yellowy after the compound buffing I'll consider a sanding process instead before applying the sealant.

Any hints / advice or info on any of the above info in this post will be greatly appreciated guys! Will be carrying on this thread with photos and general progress updates.
 

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I have only skimmed through your thread. I figure if I ever want to update my horrid interior lighting it will be a great resource!

I recon that “door card” must mean the entire plastic piece that fits into the door?

you mentioned ordering perforated vinyl from eBay. I have a first generation so totally different platform but maybe they used some of the same materials as I have that perforated leatherette material too. I removed the small sections from the “door card” lol, and covered them in lime green vinyl. I love how they pop out and match my “racing stripes”. I’ve seen a CRV with a fake wood radio surround and was like WTF??? I like your ideas to make the interior unique.

Regarding fixing the driver’s seat seam—maybe you can get a passenger seat (which are always in better condition) from the wreckers and swap out the cushion.

Regarding rims—if you have different size front and back it may damage the AWD system… glad you fixed that.
Your model year has a full-size spare on the back, yeah? I would try and get a matching rim for it.

In fact, I just learned the hard way that it would be a lot better to buy a matching set of five tires. I got a sidewall puncture but my tires are discontinued (with less than 15k km’s use). If I had five and had put the spare into rotation, I’d have a replacement tire with the same wear. The tires would have to be non-directional for that plan to work though, so not likely to find good ones that suit.

Maybe I’ll one day revive my pot-dream I had of making an R2D2 and attaching it to the roof, complete with working lights. Then I’d need your experience with the LED’s and switches. That would have been for my 1969 VW though so would have been killer. CRV? Not quite the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I recon that “door card” must mean the entire plastic piece that fits into the door?
...
Regarding rims—if you have different size front and back it may damage the AWD system… glad you fixed that.
Your model year has a full-size spare on the back, yeah? I would try and get a matching rim for it.
Yup door card is the whole interior trim of the door.

The spare wheel also has what I presume is a Honda Civic 16", matching the 2 wheels on the back. Though it has a slimmer tyre. It could be the 16" rims (spare and rear) are the OEM wheels that came with this particular model (in which case they aren't Civic rims)... either way the rims i'm getting are CRV MK2 15" to match the 2 on the front. Should get them midweek. Have pretty much committed to the Falken 215/75/r15s now. Hope to close the deal on Monday, and have them delivered within a couple of days.

Today am seeing about the side steps. Earlier in this thread I posted photos of the places under the car where the brackets are to be bolted. In those photos you can see that this car had brackets installed previously for sidesteps and these have been brutally hacked off, leaving a small part of the bracket bolted under the car. Luckily the bolts were easy enough to undo with a ratchet.

So the sidesteps I have are Honda OEM. And they match my model exactly. I say this as a word of caution. As not all my brackets are the same length. And I've heard that depending on your model, this may cause a problem. For me 1 of the 6 brackets is longer than the other 5. This one fits the front passenger side, the other's appear to be interchangeable.

It is discussed also in this video which appears to be pretty much an installation of the exact same sidesteps and brackets as mine.

What I'm doing now is cleaning up the brackets and bolts and figuring out how to best apply some rust proof spray I have. Hope to update here later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Eurgh... bolt tap. For the side step brackets, need a bolt tap.

The holes nearest the exhaust need bolt tapping. Another tool I need to buy and wait for.

Put the heat gun to good use on most of the door cards though, it does a good job at getting rid of a lot of scratches. I cleaned the surface first with a brush and soapy water, dried it down. Used the heat gun, and after 5mn applied some interior protector. Still have most of the boot, 2 door cards, and maybe the pillars to do.

Also I find the sound of the doors closing really unsatisfactory. Not sure if I can be bothered trying new rubber seals.
 

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Yup door card is the whole interior trim of the door.

The spare wheel also has what I presume is a Honda Civic 16", matching the 2 wheels on the back. Though it has a slimmer tyre. It could be the 16" rims (spare and rear) are the OEM wheels that came with this particular model (in which case they aren't Civic rims)... either way the rims i'm getting are CRV MK2 15" to match the 2 on the front. Should get them midweek. Have pretty much committed to the Falken 215/75/r15s now. Hope to close the deal on Monday, and have them delivered within a couple of days.

Today am seeing about the side steps. Earlier in this thread I posted photos of the places under the car where the brackets are to be bolted. In those photos you can see that this car had brackets installed previously for sidesteps and these have been brutally hacked off, leaving a small part of the bracket bolted under the car. Luckily the bolts were easy enough to undo with a ratchet.

So the sidesteps I have are Honda OEM. And they match my model exactly. I say this as a word of caution. As not all my brackets are the same length. And I've heard that depending on your model, this may cause a problem. For me 1 of the 6 brackets is longer than the other 5. This one fits the front passenger side, the other's appear to be interchangeable.

It is discussed also in this video which appears to be pretty much an installation of the exact same sidesteps and brackets as mine.

What I'm doing now is cleaning up the brackets and bolts and figuring out how to best apply some rust proof spray I have. Hope to update here later.
May as well get a 16” spare. No point to carry around the wrong size spare—it’s worse than useless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Got the 3 wheels today to match the 2 on the front. Tires on them are 215 / 70 / 15... haven't really looked at the tread properly though. One is in really good condition, the other 2 are battered, but I'm not complaining for £40 each. Thinking of plastidipping them black.

And I have ordered the tires. 5 x 215/75/15 Falken Wildpeak AT3WAs.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread


Also received the roof rails. Roof rack should be next week sometime.

Really need to book that aircon inspection tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Booked the aircon inspection. Here's hoping it's a simple leak fix.

Today got 4 Falken AT tyres and they look great. Should get the 5th on Monday for the spare.

Have been digging into lighting diagrams... found some interesting stuff online I will link to in a later post when I get round to the footwell LEDs.

also got a Tap and Die set. Cheap. And it shows. But good to learn with. Died some bolts, worked well, will die the rest. Tapped 6 bolt holes in the chassis under the car for the side steps... what a bloody mission. 6 done, 18 to go. 4 of those remaining 18 are proving worrying. Can't seem to tap them. Maybe a different gauge bolt? Anyone know?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
So what a difference a tool makes. The tap and die set i used was awful... particularly the tap grip. Basically wore away so wouldn't bite into the tap.

Here's the crap one. The grip won't grip and instead tears itself to pieces of shrapnel. The tap isn't really tapered.
Household hardware Gas Tool Plumbing Metal


Here's the good one from Lidl. Proper grip, and the tap is well tapered.
Tool Cable Auto part Font Metal


As luck would have it I had a Lidl Parkside drill and tap set that i'd bought for attaching the spoiler, and the tap grip and tap are excellent, much better design and much better build quality. Have done the 12 bolt holes on the driver side, will get the other 12 tapped on the passenger side over the weekend. Also... I recommend a good dollop of WD40 before tapping.

Looking at the spoiler I have to attach... bit worried now about where I have to drill bolt holes on the boot... looks like it's not meant to be almost. Anyway, will get round to that another day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
So been down the garage in Cambridge for them to inspect the air conditioning. The guy asked me there "who last gassed it?"... oh dear, it will be that well recommended guy on my town's FB group... the chap I prematurely called a "diamond geezer" earlier in this thread.

So anyway, the guy at the garage reckons the compressor is full of holes and leaking. Though when he heard that I had had it working briefly after it was gassed, then that suggested no black death. So we're more or less where I thought I would be in the case of no black death... which is to say... I need a new compressor. They reckon they can get one and instal it for just under £300. So have booked that in for next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Air con sorted! I don't know if the garage misspoke or i misheard innitially but it was not the compressor but the condenser that was shot to bits and leaking. Anyway all tested and working great now. Fingers crossed it lasts... at least this summer!

Have received the Teyes headunit with CRV (MK2) surround, reverse camera and microphone. Looks like it will be a job getting it all set up. Might leave the camera installation for when I do the spoiler as it might require some drilling in the boot door too.

Also received my replacement USB port for the cigarette lighter. Will post photos once installed. Might get another for the boot power socket. Not sure if this will charge a laptop yet.

Finally, ready for the wheels and AT tires to go on so will hopefully book that this week.

Oh and I've been fighting with some bolts on the side step brackets, I won eventually. Not without some blood, sweat, and WD40 though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
So new head unit update!

Got the Teyes CC3 unit yesterday and initial impressions are pretty good. But I'm being very slow and careful about it as I'm learning some features I won't be able to take advantage of, and I'm really keen to lock down privacy settings. There are only ever 4 reasons for having this (or any) Android head units ever:
  • Hands free calls via bluetooth from the phone
  • SatNav
  • Rear view camera
  • Music
... NONE of which require an internet connection ever.

Having said that, internet access can be a nice to have. So I will be setting up the wifi eventually. But only once I've locked down privacy and security, removed unnecessary apps, and have a plan of "order of operations" in terms of things I'll be doing such as installing a VPN and such. I will detail this as I move along.

Software

I have reviewed some of the settings and disabled various permissions on various apps already. Some apps won't allow to disable Location. Which is a massive red flag for me. I will work round it one way or another.

It comes with Yandex maps as standard but has Google maps also. I'll be removing both of these hopefully and using an offline app for satnav (there are many, you only need to connect to download the app and the maps).

I won't be using Apple Car Play as the interface and features on the Teyes are really pretty good.

Hardware and cables...

Documentation is severely lacking!

I've plugged it in and fitted it with the CRV MK2 surround it came with. It really looks good and fits perfectly.

The challenge has been identifying which cables I can/should plug into the unit from the car.

There's the main loom, this plugs in to the Teyes female cable fine (the Teyes cable itself plugging into the unit)... but interestingly the coaxial male is attached to the Teyes cable, so I've plugged this into the Teyes unit as well, rather than the coaxial which was already coming from the car. Maybe this is a mistake and the Teyes coaxial cable isn't needed??

Found this diagram of the OEM satnav unit connectors and a PDF on a civic forum (it's for the CRV though)... it doesn't state what the coaxial input on the OEM satnav is for. I've heard it's for audio but have also heard with more authority that the audio is handled by the main loom. Maybe it needs both...

The Teyes unit has a radio rf input... its on the top left (green socket)... but where oh where is the CRV's antenna lead? No clue. So FM radio not working atm.
Black Grille Font Office equipment Engineering


On the CRV's end there are the following cables:
  • Main loom (audio and power I believe)
  • Navigation loom (itself branching off the main loom cables, I believe this receive the Vehicle Speed Pulse). The OEM satnav uses a combination of GPS and VSP (and possibly something indicating vehicle direction) to locate the car (quite clever, for when GPS signal is unavailable).
  • GPS antenna cable. Won't fit the Teyes, but the Teyes comes with it's own so no worries.
  • A coaxial lead... mysterious
There are 2 unused inputs on the OEM satnav but it seems that they would have had no use anyway. odd.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior
Electrical wiring Gas Cable Machine Wire


I'm wondering if the Navigation loom cable provides info that would be useful to the head unit to display speed and wheel direction on the screen. Normally this would be via a Canbus connection I think, and while there is a canbus port on the Teyes, there is no cable that came with it, and none coming from the CRV that I'm aware of.

I'm really hoping I can get the Teyes to display my speed and wheel direction. If it can't be done I guess it's fine though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Haven't really considered traditional makes like Pioneer and Sony. The Teyes unit was under £300 including the CRV surround. Does more than everything... but I am a bit paranoid about the data harvesting. Found a setting to turn Location off globally. The Teyes software is like a layer on top of Android so they are able to hide settings and such I think. They won't stop me though.

So the unit recognises when the headlights are on or off, so maybe there's some canbus awareness.
Really loving this unit. Brings the interior much more up to date. It's a bit annoying we don't produce units like this here, though I suppose we don't have the slave labour to keep the cost down.
Land vehicle Speedometer Vehicle Odometer Car


Also realised my new (second hand) driver's door card was missing the orange clips that you screw into... found them and clipped them in... door card is much sturdier now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Wheels now match!

Falken Wildpeak AT tyres fitted!

Roof rails attached!

Wheel Automotive parking light Car Tire Vehicle


Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Not sure if I mentioned but the 16" rims I took off (2 rear and spare), were probably the OEM for this model rather than Civic wheels as I presumed. I kind of prefer the design of the older 15" ones anyway so happy with that.

TreadFirst in East Anglia fitted all the tyres and rims, £15 each, so £75 total, can't complain about that! Did it while I watched in about an hour.

They discovered one of the studs on the rear driver's side wheel had been cross threaded. Will maybe get that sorted one day.
 
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