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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got the car a month ago and went to work on this baby. This car is for my wife but I wanted to give her a car that is safe and she doesn't have to worry about with some of the luxury of newer crv.

We got the car off the lot like this it had a CEL and a leaky down pipe but we got it for really cheap. But it also had 210k miles on it and was north of the salt belt





After I got this baby home here was my to buy list

BGK products for transmission, coolant, and fuel injection system
9 bottle of castrol ATF multi-import
5qt castrol GTX high mileage
pureone oil filter
cabin air filter
washable k&n air filter
Power Acoustik PDN-626B navigation/ double dinn
BOSS power 3 way 300w speakers
morimoto h1 mini projector
morimoto elite HID kit H1
new down pipe with catalytic converter
2 bottles of valvoline DOT 4 brake fluids
2 bottle of honda power steering fluid
new valve cover gasket and spark plug tube
4 denso TT iridium spark plugs
Magnefine ATF filter
LED light bulbs for gauge cluster
Gates 38278 Belt Tensioner Assembly
Rear Back Barn Door Swing Hatch Gate Lift Support Shock Arm Rod For 02-06 CRV
PIAA super silicon wiper (one of the best bang for the buck, the set on my accord lasted 3 years)
170°CMOS Anti Fog Waterproof Car Rear View Reverse Camera Kit Backup Camera
BRAND NEW Ignition Knock Detonation Sensor for HONDA / ACURA 30530-PNA-003
Gates engine Water Pump-Water Pump(Standard) GATES 42312
2 gallon Honda type 2 blue coolant
Serpentine Belt DAYCO 7PVK1735
2 bottles Honda dual pump fluid

Here are some pix
gauge cluster. I had 4 burnt out bulbs out of the 11


Added the navi/double dinn head unit





Built some HID retrofits in 4 hours. That included painting and tweaking the projectors







Here are my new speakers because the oem one were clipping/distorting after adding the new head unit. I used this kit on ebay, but you will still have to drill into the door frame.



I replaced my leaky down pipe with this pipe, but I painted it flat black to help it from rusting out like the original one


Since I was changing out the coolant I also did the water pump, and wanted to do the thermostat but all the bolts were rusted and rounded off



I replaced the knock sensor I have the HONDA HDS So I could reset the permanent CEL

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Damn. Great work! You've given me some ideas. Please post pics.
going to redo the heads with a clean set

and I am also working on a way to either get k-pro or ktuner to work on the crv. I just need to see if I can swap an ecu from an accord or tsx into the car. I have the honda tool to reprogram keys and vinns. So that the easy part.

Also need to still run the wiring for the rear back up camera.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay so the CRV At gear ratio is the same as the accords 06-07 models.
1st:2.652
2nd:1.517
3rd:1.037
4th:0.738
5th:0.566
Reverse:2
Final Drive:4.438

I am leaning more towards the Accord ECU since its cheaper and easier to get compared to the TSX and I can probably K-tuner it and use the accord base map as a starting point. Then do the tsx valve train and camshafts. This should probably get rid of the dual intake runners also since the accord does not have this feature. My friend has offer me his Jackson racing S/C so I could also retrofit that to work on the CRV also. Give the RDX a run for its money
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
gutted my air box, replaced the front sway bar endlink, and added light weight pulley

old P/S pulley over new one




The New alternator pulley is also larger, but like I said it's a bitch to to to the alternator pulley and I don't want to be underdriving it

Didn't get a chance to take the car out because I am using the OEM belt and it is way too small. I just bought a new belt and will be installing it tomorrow to see how much better of a fit that gets.

As far as weight all the new pulleys are significantly lighter than stock. So less drivetrain lost.
 

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Good stuff, looking forward to see fogs installed. Also are you kidding about 210k miles, she looks to be in very good condition :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I need the foglights to cover the area directly under the bumper since the projector can't cover it. Going to do Matte black with the plastic dip and also matte black the roof.

just bought some moog front lower ball joints, and moog spherical lower bushing. That should take care of that stupid clunk clunk

also picking up a RSX rear control arm with spherical bushing to put on the CRV

This car should last a while now
 

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Might require drilling out new mounts for the bushings.
I just ordered Addco rear sway bar upgrade. Found it somewhere for $160 while its $200 everywhere else. For G2's it increases the diameter from 3/4 to 7/8. It also lines up well. G1s however, I heard requires shaving the OEM bushing down to fit.
 

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Addco part # 2339 & I found it cheapest here. I contacted every website that sells it and they all said it will be 2-4 weeks since none have it in stock and all have to order direct from Addco - who doesn't sell directly to consumers. I've read a few threads on this and everyone unanimously said it was one of their best upgrades. & again, those with G2s had a hell of a lot easier time installing it since the bushings line up flawlessly unlike the hell G1'ers had to deal with.

Also, while looking into all of this, what do you think about this? $60-70 direct from manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I just order some moog lower ball joint for the crv. I am also thinking about doing the inner and outer tie rods since I don't know how long it has been on the car, and it already has 212xxx miles on it. Trying to get rid of this rattle.

so much crap I want to do to this car.

I also been looking at skunk2 stage 1/2 and brian crower camshafts, but that means I need to do new retainers, springs, valve seals, hybrid racing or ktuner timing tensioner, and a new timing chain kit. $$$

if only k-tuner made something for the crv I would just slap on my friend comptech s/c and disable the dual intake runners so that there is no CEL
 

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For my fading bumpers, I've had good success with 303 Aerospace Protectant. I use that stuff on my bumpers, headlights, and interior plastic, rubber seals, etc. They also make this stuff, which I'd also try before plasti-dipping.
http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Automotive-Trim-Restorer-Protectant-Kit-P1101/4-oz-S1/

My only previous experience with plastidip was doing my wheels a year ago. This year I decided to do em right & found out the hard way how much of a pain it is to get off. Used WD40 to loosen it up which works pretty well... just makes a big greasy mess.

There's also this stuff as another alternative to plastidipping the bumper. Its sort of taxed and I haven't used it myself.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Jetseal-Matte-P907/16-oz-S1/
 
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