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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I've decided to redo my entire thread here... Seems completely out of date and inaccurate. I saved two pictures, just to show the old and the new.

2000 Honda CRV, not sure of the trim package
5 speed manual
B20Vtec
374,000km

My daily driver, I use it for work, so it's constantly jammed with cargo.

I've learned quite a bit over the years about this vehicle, so please feel free to drop me a PM or a question here. I've explored many avenues, and am continuing to go deeper.

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Showoff

First day I picked her up, bone stock with a short ram intake.


Engine Bay.
DIY: Tune-up, Big 3 Upgrade, Intake, Kinetik KHC1400


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At some point, my engine started rocking back and forth really hard between shifts. This was the culprit:

Engine torque mounts




Replaced both with these:

Polyurethane Engine Torque Mounts



Those new mounts caused a lot of vibrations in the car, and to this day I have yet to secure the bumper from it's infernal vibrations. It isnt tooo horrible, but i am tolerant. Just turn up the radio lol But it does give me quite amazing shifts, which is entirely worth the noise.

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And then one day it was driving, my clutch slave let go my fiance when she was driving, and somehow this happened to my clutch:



I installed a Exeddy Stage 1 clutch and pressure plate combo, with a TypeR flywheel, shaved down to 14 pounds. Oh and a new slave too, OEM.

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My fiance also has her own car now.

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At 355,000km I blew my engine. Compression from cylinders 1-4: 173psi, 169psi, 70psi, 167psi. It was getting 230km to the tank, with absolutely babying it. Otherwise it barfed black and blue smoke, and would soil an oil change with fuel, in a day or two of driving.

Side note, for anyone who is driving on a B20 engine, for the love of god, change your oil pump to an appropriate aftermarket one. The OEM oil pumps give poor oil circulation to cylinder 3, and are almost always the cause of these cylinders wearing out.

So I did this:



B20B Block, bored 50 over, with TypeR 11.5:1 pistons and rods.
B16A Head, shaved (forget how much) to get it closer to 12:1, new valves, guides, essentially rebuilt to all hell.

And everything reinforced with ARP studs, bolts, ect.

PRM intake system, highly recommended. The filter is a velocity stack, people with AEM intakes claim throwing the filter on alone gives 3-4hp on the dyno without a tune.

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So off to the dyno we go:

Results:



For anyone who cant read that, it says 164hp / 133 tq.

Not what I was aiming for, but it is reasonable considering we had the injectors running at 100% and the exhaust is completely factory.

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So the next day, I'm driving around, having all kinds of BWAAAAAAA fun, and I decided to spin over to my mechanic's shop. I take him for a rip, take his partner for a rip. Then I decide, HEY LETS DO A BURNOUT!

Famous last words:



So we replaced them with some 500hp rated shafts, so this never happens again.

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While replacing the drive shafts, I noticed something that looked rather, decrepit. We ordered the parts in and replaced them in a few days.

Time is not friendly, and neither is salt.

Rear sub frame brace:



Aaaaand new ones, with a sticker for the jajajaja's:



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So then suddenly, I started getting this bad ass knocking sound from the engine. And I'm thinking FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU..... So I take it to the mechanics.

The guys tear apart the head, look at my distributor, and they just cant find where the noise is coming from. They adjusted valve lash, everything was at the bottom of the spec. Then we retarded the timing to full retard (you never go full retard), and the knock almost went away. We pulled out timing light, compression tester, and discovered the compression was a wopping 215PSI. We're like WTF?! This thing should be on rocket fuel! After our inspections complete, and hours of grueling diagnostics, we determine its gotta be a blocked cat/****ty exhaust, or a cam.

Also, during our inspection, we found this crazy marking on the head. Every other head in the shop, had blank squares, mine had these markings.



After sending this picture to Chinese and Japanese friends, no one understands it. Someone said the second character contains ancient particles for WEST. But that's it.

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SOOO anyways off to the store I go. Luckily a few suppliers had these guys sitting around, just for me =)

Magnaflow 22" muffler, and OBD2 Cat, both 2.5" in/out.



PLM Tri Y Big Tube, for the nice mid range.



RDX 440CC Injectors, because now we're going to need the real deal.



All said and done, I got the gear installed:



Side pipe exhaust makes me happy =)



And back to the dyno we go!

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Unfortunately, I misplaced the dyno sheet =( But she made 194.xx HP and I forget the torque rating. Knock gone, and I'm a happy camper!

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Until recently, I was driving late at night, slightly sub zero temps, and the engine was shaking, pretty badly. But the bastard BMW was riding my ass like it's an Olympic sport.

So I slowed down to 60 on the highway, put it in second, and stomped on it. It made a rather strange noise, power surged, and then had more power lol. I look out my rear view, and the BMW is swerving all over the highway, and there is a gigantic cloud of black and chunks making a silhouette in his headlights.

Uh oh... Back to the shop!

The next day we drop the exhaust:



Molten kitty guts...



So we broke the rest off, tipped it upside down, and slapped it all back together. The motor is so much happier haha!

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Which leads us to today... She's a happy camper, doing all of my dirty work, putting on thousands of kms every 2 weeks.



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I do hope you enjoyed, there will be more to come =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can't help with the gears but I like the story of your build/adventures.
Had I been drinking something the "molten kitty guts" line would have caused major spray on the key board.
Haha im glad you enjoyed it! It was fun to revisit all of the memories I had getting to this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great build up, the limited slip diff. will really make it a beast.
Thank you.

Yeah my hopes with the transmission will be that the limited slip diff will help launch, because when the back wheels have to work, it's just plain slow with one front tire spinning.

That and the gear ratios will keep me in VTEC every time I shift at the red line.

45mph in first gear lol thats just crazy =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Kick the one legged CRV rear diff. to the side for a S2000 rear diff. and get all four wheels digging.
I will have to explore this option. It might actually be cheaper than throwing an LSD in the front end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Edit: After going to the shop and pulling a control arm, I found out the bushing kit below does NOT work on the CRV. Buying the right ones from http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts.com/

Further edit: These parts are on a 2 month order, and I will get them another day. The suspension is a tricky beast, which must be done properly. I will come back to this, but for now, I am moving on using OEM equipment.






And lets just say, my appointment at the shop is in a week. It cant come soon enough:




Aaaaaand incase that wasnt grunge, gnarley, or plain nasty enough for you, here it is with a flash on:





In other news, I made my own first ever DIY grill. I just had an idea, a couple beers, and I made this. My 'slapped together' DIY post will have the details, in case you dare try this yourself =P

Here's the results: Sorry for the night pics, will post day shots.

P.S. If you're wondering why it looks out of place slightly; It isnt secured yet, I just popped it in place.







With and without the Honda Badge:






Seen this immediately after taking the pictures, made me laugh:

 

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The Honda lettering will look great in the new grille, and will add some 'retro' feel to it.
This whole project is really awesome so far. As a 2 times CRV owner, with a brother who owns a jdm Integra type-R, now I really want to sell my 3rd gen and find a nice 1st gen instead...
As for drivetrain, I'd say go for the LSD first, and if you still lack traction, go for a tougher rear diff, just remember to get the same ratios :p and probably upgrade the RT4WD system while you're at it (oil cooler might help?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The Honda lettering will look great in the new grille, and will add some 'retro' feel to it.
This whole project is really awesome so far. As a 2 times CRV owner, with a brother who owns a jdm Integra type-R, now I really want to sell my 3rd gen and find a nice 1st gen instead...
As for drivetrain, I'd say go for the LSD first, and if you still lack traction, go for a tougher rear diff, just remember to get the same ratios :p and probably upgrade the RT4WD system while you're at it (oil cooler might help?)
Thank you for your comments!

So thanks to the guys at honda tech, I have this article on a guy who swapped 1st gen CRV RTAWD drive train into a EK Civic (96-00) body, with a 450hp turbo'd engine. Nevermind his insane work to get this all to fit, he touched on replacing gears, fitting an LSD, upgrading the pump shaft (middle drive shaft), and equiping a toggle switch to turn the rear wheels on and off.

Long story short, the CRV transmission has really thick shift forks, which do not fit into regular B series gear synchronizers: from the S80/Y21 transmissions (type R, GSR, Si, LS, ect). So he had to use the 5th gear out of an LS Integra, and shave the fork down to fit it. So this throws my custom transmission down the toilet, unless we can swap shift forks from a s80 into a CRV transmission.

Also, his LSD solution required running the ring gear face on a lathe, reducing it's thickness by nearly 1/4", so the bolts would clear. So this is possible, just more fab work and time.

The pump shaft replacement was out of a suzuki 4WD, which also uses the intermediate bearing like our shafts do, it was just a couple inches short. So he had custom plates made to adapt from the factory shaft to the thicker shaft.

And the rear end is holding on to the power very well with the 450hp engine, and him engaging the rear end into full lock mode on launch. I dont wish to run this mod, but it's a great idea.

Anyhow, here's the thread, for anyone that wants to check it out: how i installed an lsd in a crv awd transmission...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Just a day shot of the DIY grill, looks good. Still on the fence about a badge or not.
Go with the badge. Tends to look rice without it!
 

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Go with the badge. Tends to look rice without it!
I'll 2nd that nomination :) I like badges. Looks like something is missing without it. Love the sleeper V btw. Keep the updates coming.
 

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I'll 2nd that nomination :) I like badges. Looks like something is missing without it. Love the sleeper V btw. Keep the updates coming.
Go with the badge. Tends to look rice without it!

Definitely guys, I've been looking at it every day, and it's screaming BADGE MEEEEE =P I'm going to shop around at the local shops, see whats available, dry fit, ect.

Thanks for the comments. This Thursday/Friday/Saturday should be another decent update. Wheels and bushings installed, fingers crossed, pending how much work I can cram in the next few days =P
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I was looking for some older pics of my CRV, I stumbled upon these.

I think this was about this time, 3 years ago. Notice the rust on my hood doesnt exist, or the ding in my grill haha.

I had fitted these rims, belonged to my brother, he gave them to me. 235/40R18, it drove like crap, was taken all over the road by every crevice. I think it was due to the +35 offset.






I cant wait for my new rims, weeee!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Rim day has commeth!

P235/50R17 - 0.01% difference from factory diameter.

2013 Honda Civic SI factory pull offs, had the plastic still on the rim.

Paired with a set of Falcon ZE950 all season tires.

Man does this ever ride nice, and it hooks up a heluva lot better!

I'd just like to add that right now it has 4 winter tires on rims, 2 water coolers, 5 filtration systems, tools, filters, and a furniture dolly inside of it. The rear end is slammed haha!

To view a larger image < click here.

 
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