I mentioned some posts ago that I did a "fix" for my heat problem. I remember being shocked one winter evening after the wife pulled the CRV into the garage after a 10 mile drive home from work and I saw that the temperature needle was still at the bottom of the gauge. I also noticed that the CRV lost heat rapidly after a long drive and then parked with the engine off, not to mention driving for miles before the temperature needle started to show itself. The Honda fix didn't do anything for me, I noticed, except for running the fan at max speed if I do a remote start and increasing my oil level (which I didn't experience before). Anyway, so I took it upon myself to experiment and I am pleased to say that this solution has been working for me. I'm sharing with you guys in hope that it helps some of us who is suffering from the no-heat/slow-heat problem. This is pretty sad that I have to do this for a brand new car.
My solution to the heat problem (with pics)
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One more pic.
I'm using fiberglass insulation material, the roll you find at a home improvement store. It's used for wrapping HVAC ducts. Pic 1 is to put one bat in the firewall. Pic 2 is to put some on both sides of the engine to block out the draft. Pic 3 is to put 1 bat on top of the engine. Pic 4 is to add the last bat to completely seal the engine. Note: make sure not to have any fiberglass material touches the rotating parts/belts.
I have absolutely no issue with this setup. Even went on a 200+ mile/4 hour freeway drive one way trip.
Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk. I'm not responsible for your actions.
I'm using fiberglass insulation material, the roll you find at a home improvement store. It's used for wrapping HVAC ducts. Pic 1 is to put one bat in the firewall. Pic 2 is to put some on both sides of the engine to block out the draft. Pic 3 is to put 1 bat on top of the engine. Pic 4 is to add the last bat to completely seal the engine. Note: make sure not to have any fiberglass material touches the rotating parts/belts.
I have absolutely no issue with this setup. Even went on a 200+ mile/4 hour freeway drive one way trip.
Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk. I'm not responsible for your actions.
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A higher degree thermostat might work too
That has been discussed in detail here. For those reporting the issue the thermostat hardly opens with sub-freezing temps so a higher one would not help.
I am glad that this is working for you and thanks for posting it. However if I had to go to that trouble the POS car would be long gone. It is pretty sad indeed.
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It shouldn't open at all until it reaches temp
Exactly but the problem for many is that it never reaches temp.
I have implemented this solution for about 2 months already. Multiple long distance trips (Milwaukee to Chicago and longer) and it's fine. I'm not worried about fire because fiberglass (unfaced fiberglass is what I'm using) is not combustible (google it). Also I don't put it anywhere near the exhaust. The only worry I have is that it might get tangled up in the pulleys/belts but I was careful so that hasn't happened. As for it being in the cabin, I don't think so either. The CRV has a cabin air filter.
This is the fastest and cheapest temporary solution for the cold winter months until Honda provides a permanent fix, which is when hell boils over. Once winter is over and temperature stays in the 50s, I will remove it.
This is the fastest and cheapest temporary solution for the cold winter months until Honda provides a permanent fix, which is when hell boils over. Once winter is over and temperature stays in the 50s, I will remove it.
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In that case....go pink panther��
I thought about that but doesn't the CRV already have some kind of shutters in the front as discussed in this forum? Plus that cardboard only block air but it does nothing to trap the precious little engine heat the CRV creates in such a roomy engine bay so I don't think that would be as good as this.
You can make a killing on eBay selling these "snuggies". With over a million diluters on the road you will be buying a Bentley next!!!
Now that's funny!
Please indicate <SARCASM ALERT> when posting stuff like this!
You'll probably have to re-think this solution when those batts get wet. They will soak up water like a sponge, get very heavy, sink, lose their insulating properties, and cause major rust headaches. One thing to consider might be the same idea with a different material, such as the same stuff used for the hood insulator pad, which is also used in HVAC air handlers and can be bought in sheets, though it's not cheap. Or some sort of reflective heat barrier.
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