Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Modders,

I've been road traveling/'SUV-Rv'ing for a year plus in my '05 4WD SE. Have gotten by with a modest 400W inverter plugged into the lighter socket and at most, I used for running a mini-'chiller fridge' & light power tools, like my Dremel or a workstand light.
This inverter predated my CR-V at 4+ yrs old & just crapped out,. SoI bought a 1K Watt one, only to 'discover' in my electronic ignorance--that it req'd 2 AWG power hook up...
As well, I noted I'd been stressing my starter/battr. system all this time--having installed a 24F over the tiny stock one quite a while back. So, I'm researching & selecting component sub-assemblies & routing options.

Thus far:
a)I believe I can get away with mounting the inverter itself[..1000 Watt Jupiter from HBF..] in the cubby slot just below one's knee; to the left of the steering wheel 7 below the 'Sunroof/Pwr Steering 'Active'-button cluster. So far, width & depth clearance check out if I create a mounting bracket.

b)This would facilitate routing the 2 AWG cables thru the firewall-->starter battery.

c)I've been watching various youtube 'hook-up' methods & routings, all upon different vehicles...just to familiarize myself with the components, fuse/relay junctions suggested &tooling required.

d)I'm trying to choose a battery: for now, I'm content with continued, 'modest power'-demand support[..power drill, jigsaw or heat gun at most..], so I'm 'hoping'
to AVOID selecting another 'full-sized/weight battery. Mini fridge, Laptop, hot melt glue gun & small electronics will be the usual power drain/draw.

I'm leaning towards a smaller, fishing kayak-type, 'Trolling Motor'-deep cycle battery--of no more than 40AH & 24 lbs weight. Haven't yet settled on a 'chemistry' but AGM sealed, for cost & easy availability--is where I'm leaning.

Last, big issue:
I haven't decided WHERE to locate this 2nd-battery. Shortest cable distance & LEAST usage/interference w/existing cargo space are my desires.

At first I considered the passenger front floor, but a friend said that's basic, 'legacy' Safety "No-No"[..accident/missile hazard..]

UNDER the front passenger seat is probably too tight.

Directly behind the fold-down, rear seat is possible on the driver's side, but my passenger 'bench' side serves as my '45 deg.-tilt 'Lounge'-bed at night; I'm concerned a 'battery + hold-down hardware' would interfere.

I like keeping rear cargo stowage 'fluid' & open: a cat carrier, mini-fridge, tools/toys, clothing & blankets in headliner cargo netting, and RARELY access the picnic table sub-floor. This is my 2nd "V"--I saved another picnic table from my former, wrecked one & it's mounted flush on the roof for now.

I've hoped to keep more dead weight 'up front' as well keeping the cable lengths->battery shorter, so I am now considering these 2 possibilities:
A)-Use the subfloor pit, which would be a PITA to access/check regularly[..unload/unpack stowage above!..].

B)-Be creative-->and utilize the 'fold out' arm rest installed in the rear bench, as a 'cubby' to mount a modest battery? As long as it's anchored to either the bench OR floor hard points below, it 'should' be safe, non?

What do you think?

Also, I never looked hard/investigated to 'see', but in the rear cargo area, right behind the left-rear wheel well, there is a plastic molded 'Vent' grating--opposite side of the 'Tire Jack' stowage compartment on the other side. Has anyone ever made use of THAT space...if any is there?

Anty links or guidance to other people's mods is greatly appreciated; I got a bit overwhelmed trying to go thru all the 'Search' pages of other's projects here, looking for a 'similar' mod.

Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
963 Posts
Sounds good.

The Lithium-Iron Phosphate batteries are the best and lightest (and smallest) if you can afford them...

Keep us posted on what you do, sounds like you are having fun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@RockyMtnCRV ....thanks for your response.

Hmmmm: Lithium-Iron Phosphate batteries?

I'm into RC planes as well--I know many guys use LiFe rechargeable batteries--are the same 'class/tech'?

I'm actually 'pressed/limited' for cash, so leaving towards 'cheaper', legacy tech...or at least more modest-sized battery.

Also, I've used regular Lipos for RC and am aware of their tendency to catastrophically BLOW-UP/BURN...especially with finicky charging/discharging cycle & care.

I don't want ANY of that mess in my car!

The Li-Fe-Phosphates you suggest: any examples/links to recommended units? Are they the type of thing many 'Car Audio/Amp/Installer' stores & outfits have experience handling &installing?
Do these type require 'special' digital monitoring/balancing modules and PC/laptop interfaces for analysis &care?


Like the modern, streamlined tech but I don't have the time/$$$ at present to gt deeply mired in a 'new' tech learning curve, esp. if potential 'mishandling =>failure/burnout/burn-UP' risk exists, versus more traditional sealed or AGMs.
 

·
Registered
2016 CRV Touring AWD
Joined
·
3,785 Posts
Dual battery systems are very common in jeeps off road for winching, RV, boaters etc.

You need to have an isolator added to split and manage the alternator output. As a first timer, I would suggest you go with agm type battery system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OcelotSD64BU

·
Premium Member
2005 and 2006 EX AWD
Joined
·
448 Posts
the best way in my opinion is to run a 6 GA. positive fused or breaker at the source in the engine compartment and a continuous duty solenoid rated for 100A minimum in the engine compartment either activated by something in the fuse panel when you start the vehicle or toggle switch the toggle will be low current just activating the solenoid and run the 6 GA on the drivers side so it cant touch the exhaust under the car inside of grey plastic pvc flexible conduit that that they use in houses or trailers HOME DEPOT has it and heavy zip ties its cheap for protection then a hole in the floor where ever the inverter and battery is mounted also put a short 6 GA or bigger from the engine or trans to the body and 6 GA ground from the AGM to body unless you run another 6 GA neg all the way up front to the block or to the battery if its easier but the main thing is if you use the body for ground you have to beef up the ground up front or it may try finding ground elsewhere because if the agm is low you will have like 40 amps charging it ,put the AGM as close to the inverter as possible probably $300 if you have the inverter already to do it right though im thinking $160 ish just for the battery and make sure its a deep cycle so it will last ,you could put the solenoid on the inverter side of the positive feed but I would rather it not be inside the cabin, just make sure its fused on the positive side close to the source and on the AGM side of the 6GA no fuse on ground,so fuses on both ends of the positive 6GA probably 75 or 100A
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top