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Discussion Starter #1
A few days ago, unexpectantly my CRV started and then died, not to re-start. There was no fire @ the distributor so I had it towed to my local NAPA Shop. Diagnosis was a NEW Distributor, not a Cap or Rotor, not a Coil or Igniter.
When I picked it up the next day I was completely surprised with it. Since then, I've had a chance to put some miles on it stop/go, highway as well. You would not believe the items that work so much better, such as............
Transmission shifting especially Overdrive
Acelleration and power especially on hills
A/C doesn't bog down RPM
Overall performance is unbelieable
So hard to believe my little CRV @ 216k plus, is as strong as it ever was.

Keep this in mind when your dealing with your Honda, a few more $$$$$$ is money well spent.
David g.
 

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One of my first cars needed its points and condenser changed at regular intervals. I once stripped out the screw holding the points and stalled going down the road because they shifted in the distributor. God bless electronic ignition.
 

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Probably had either a weak coil or ignitor besides a worn out distributor bushing (bearing).
Happy to hear the problem is fixed with such great results. Your mpg most likely got a boost also.
Enjoy !!!!
Buffalo4
PS: Now don't forget about keeping your ATF and Diffy fluid and Brake fluid clean. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Buffalo4..........Got a question for you. Would an alternative such as transmission flushing, be as good in your opinion as Honda reccomendation of several drain's ? It just seems to me when you read the forum that there is a " BUNCH " of people having problem after problem with what should be a simple service.
David g..[/FONT]
 

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Flushing is bad with a machine. The pressure used can harm seals causing leaks, issues with the torq converter and shift solenoids.

Back when I worked for Honda I saw many issues of people having the trans "flushed" at some shop only to end up at the dealer with bigger problems from the "flush".

Nothing wrong with the old tried, true and recommended way and the CRV is easier than many other Hondas. Dont have to jack it up or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Flushing is bad with a machine. The pressure used can harm seals causing leaks, issues with the torq converter and shift solenoids.

Back when I worked for Honda I saw many issues of people having the trans "flushed" at some shop only to end up at the dealer with bigger problems from the "flush".

Nothing wrong with the old tried, true and recommended way and the CRV is easier than many other Hondas. Dont have to jack it up or anything.
Since your familiar with Honda Service, what does the Dealer do ? I find it hard to believe they drain/refill three times. They must have a better system than that. Thanks for the reply.
David g.
 

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Since your familiar with Honda Service, what does the Dealer do ? I find it hard to believe they drain/refill three times. They must have a better system than that. Thanks for the reply.
David g.
To be honest, we didn't do many as most of our customers were regulars and up on their maintenance. Having worked in the auto industry across many makes, owners of foreign cars as an over all are generally better about keeping up with regular maintenance than owners of one of the "BIG 3" manufactured cars.

But back to the question, yes they did actually drive it, some cheated and did it all with it nevering leaving the hoist. When I did my now totalled out Ivy, I did it using a hoist. Hop in with it still in the air and going through the procedure.

If Im not mistaken, there is a TSB about doing it on the hoist with a 2nd gen CR-V.
 

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Actually it is 4 drains and 4 fills with going though all the gears , inc reverse, and getting the tranny into torque converter lockup to get the fluid totally mixed up. It can be done on a hoist or just by driving. This is not usually done unless there are serious problems with the old atf or a non-compatible atf was used.

Yes, it is time consuming for the dealer to do their kind of flush. Some may even disconnect the return atf line from the cooler to do it quicker, bit it is not better.

Some disconnect the return line from the cooler and keep running fluid though it until the fluid comes out clean. This uses less atf, but it doesn't get the old fluid out of the torque converter. If you try this method, read up on it.

Most DIY owners do the driving method and/or only do a single drain and fill.

If the dealer does a change, it is usually just a single drain and fill and a new crush washer on the drain plug.
If your atf looks halfway decent, do a single drain and fill and check it again after a day or so. If it is clean and mostly clear, that should be enough.

Southwind,
your yr CRV is very easy to do yourself and most find it easier than changing the engine oil and filter.

An I an expert in this, no.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Actually it is 4 drains and 4 fills with going though all the gears , inc reverse, and getting the tranny into torque converter lockup to get the fluid totally mixed up. It can be done on a hoist or just by driving. This is not usually done unless there are serious problems with the old atf or a non-compatible atf was used.

Yes, it is time consuming for the dealer to do their kind of flush. Some may even disconnect the return atf line from the cooler to do it quicker, bit it is not better.

Some disconnect the return line from the cooler and keep running fluid though it until the fluid comes out clean. This uses less atf, but it doesn't get the old fluid out of the torque converter. If you try this method, read up on it.

Most DIY owners do the driving method and/or only do a single drain and fill.

If the dealer does a change, it is usually just a single drain and fill and a new crush washer on the drain plug.
If your atf looks halfway decent, do a single drain and fill and check it again after a day or so. If it is clean and mostly clear, that should be enough.

Southwind,
your yr CRV is very easy to do yourself and most find it easier than changing the engine oil and filter.

An I an expert in this, no.

Buffalo4
Once again Buffalo4 you answered my question. In normal thinking, as long as there are NO apparent problems with driveability and shifting response, that will be my approach, drain refill and rechech in a couple of days. I think a lot of the postings I have been reading are dealing with a serious prior transmission problem and trying to solve it by changing the fluid, and the end result is they have only made the situation much worse. Again, thanks for sharing.
David g.
 
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