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Hi all, new to this forum, new to working on this specific part of my car, but mostly comfortable doing so.

Recently, my 2003 CRV 2WD LX had it's ignition cylinder fail from use. It wouldn't show the green light, would occasionally accept the key before finally no longer accepting it, I applied graphite, worked once or twice then stopped allowing the ignition cylinder lock to turn.

I ordered a new ignition (Import Direct from Oreilly's), unplugged the battery, started tearing up the dash planning to drill out the set screws on the ignition that attach it to the steering column, but found I couldn't do so without removing the entire front dash panel and steering wheel since the angle to drill out the ignition screws that attach to the column wouldn't work. Got to the point of removing every electrical connection, radio, heat controls, passenger airbag, all but the steering wheel itself. I removed immobilizer from the old ignition (still on steering column) and put it on the new one after I had the new ignition rekeyed by a locksmith.

At this point, I said screw it, I'll plug in the new ignition dangling below the old one since the plugs reach and plug everything else back in, and take it into the shop and let them take care of it. The only electrical connection I did not plug back in was the passenger airbag back in since I found out I should have them check it for the SRS fix, so I was going to deal with having only one brake light for the quick trip to the repair shop and no power access to the front passenger door. I think the immobilize should function properly since I tried only plugging in two of the connectors, and the car's starter would turn over, but no fuel was being pumped. Well, the car started fine with the new immobilizer on it, and as I was backing up and starting to turn the steering wheel, it locked up. In first trying it without plugging the immobilizer connection in, did I activate something telling the computer it was being activated improperly, thus prompting the steering wheel lock?

Again, the car starts up fine. Green light is on. The wheel locked up while I was operating the car, not the parking lock where it gets turned too far left or right. Luckily, I was still able to put it back in my parking space easily.

I was also thinking I'd just try removing the cylinder tumblr from the new ignition and put it in the old one, but realized that they are similar but not identical, so I do have to take it in to get them to completely remove the old ignition that is still attached, but not plugged in (3 connections unplugged).

Could someone tell me anything I can do to keep from having to tow the car? Why did the immobilizer only lock up the steering wheel after I began backing out and pivoting, but the fuel pump worked fine? Can I just reset it by calling in my VIN to the dealer with the brake reset or anything? I'm comfortable doing the work, but this is my first time doing this particular action and my inexperience is showing now :p I was really hoping to just be able to swap the lock cylinders, darn it. Could this be due in part to not having all electrical connectors (the passenger airbag is the only one remaining) in place? Does this happen any time the ignition is disconnected or something? Does the ignition necessitate being attached to the steering column to activate and clear another security pass?

Thanks for making it all the way through this. Any and all help is appreciated guys!
 

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In the temp, put a key in the slot on top of the steering column that releases the steering wheel as well as the shifter, I believe.
Worth a try and is free.
Hopefully you will get some good advice in the meantime.
Does your horn work? The brakes, horn etc are on the same fuse, if I recall correctly.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In the temp, put a key in the slot on top of the steering column that releases the steering wheel as well as the shifter, I believe.
Worth a try and is free.
Hopefully you will get some good advice in the meantime.
Does your horn work? The brakes, horn etc are on the same fuse, if I recall correctly.
Buffalo4
Thanks man!

I just came back here to explain how much of a dummy I am. I can't believe I know this, but still fell for the, "don't skip the simple **** first," that many do when first tearing machines apart.

Your suggestion may have worked, but the tumbler is removed at the moment, and would barely accept our keys, so before I came here to apologize for wasting anyone's time, I realized that duh I already knew it had a mechanism that receded when the key was turned, so just turn the little knob that the ignition switch covers (opposite end of the key slot), and it stays in that position permanently with the key tumblr removed. So thank god, now I can drive her safely to the shop and get the pros to bust off that whole ignition cylinder from the steering column for me.

I am happy to become comfortable tearing up my vehicles, but man am I happier to be taking her in now, lol. I think I'll stick to working on mostly motorcycles like I have been for the past years.

Also, as fars as the rear passenger side brake light/front passenger window/locks....same problem. I took too quick of a look at the blue and white plug on the floor of the front passenger seat. It appeared they were connected, but they were not. Simple **** once again.

Please forgive this pigheaded 25 year old everyone! :p And Buffalo, thanks again for the sound advice that would have done the trick, or at least lead me to the right answer sooner.
 
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