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Hi, I'm a new owner of a 2007 CR-V (155K miles). Long story short, we bought a used 2007 Jeep Patriot about 3 years ago for our daughter to drive. Paid about $8K for it and then had one problem after another (at about $400-1000 at a clip), and last week I find out that the frame has corroded through and it's not safe to drive. Had one payment left on it, too.

So I sold it to my mechanic for $500 in parts and just yesterday bought a 2007 CR-V LX (155K miles) that he had bought at auction. He sold it to me for $6K. Might not be the *best* price possible, given the mileage, but it looked to be clean, we have a high trust level with this mechanic (who, prior to owning this shop, was the lead tech at an Acura dealer for many years), and he had refreshed several things on it (new tires, brakes, fluids). He also "threw in" applying Fluid Film to the underside.

I ran into 3 issues leaving with the CR-V, though:

1) I discovered that the CD player was broken (wouldn't pull in the disc). Not a big deal, as it has an AUX input. Also, I was thinking of replacing the stereo with a new head unit with Apple Carplay and microphone for speakerphone functionality anyway.

2) I needed to clean the windshield on the ride home and after a few squirts of fluid, it was dry. I'm assuming that it just ran out of fluid and that there isn't a bigger problem (e.g., broken hose?). I filled it up at home this morning, so I should find out the answer to that later today. If something's broken, I'm sure he'll fix it for me without any issues.

3) The light in the back hatch area turned on (and off and on and off) before I left his lot. The indicator on the dash indicated that the hatch/tailgate was open. I get out, and it feels like it's closed tight, but I open and close it again. Light goes out. Great. I start to drive home and after about 6 miles, it starts blinking again. I tried Googling this and found some people with older models mentioning this, along with some home remedies (e.g., wrapping some electrical tape around the striker), but I'm not quite sure what the equivalent fix on the 2007 might be. Again, I'm sure my mechanic will fix it for me, but if there's a quick fix I can try, I'm open to that.
 

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I would clean the striker plate with contact cleaner. Couldn't hurt.

Anyway, they're minor issues. 07 is a bulletproof vehicle.
Hopefully it was properly maintained for those 155k miles.
 

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the back hatch issue is pretty normal. The switches wear out. mine is.finally getting to the point of annoying on my 2003 so I may finally fix it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would clean the striker plate with contact cleaner. Couldn't hurt.
I could be wrong, but I don't believe that any sort of electrical current gets passed through the striker bar, so I don't see how cleaning it would help. I ended up bringing it back to my mechanic (where I bought it) earlier today. He called me later in the day to tell me that he ordered a new part and it will hopefully be ready for pickup tomorrow.
 

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I like the new format. I Have a 2008 Honda CRV EX-L with 120000 miles on it. I had an issue earlier this summer with an oil pressure switch, sits on the back side of cylinder head toward the front of the motor. The switch went out while running through Colorado Springs luckily, and we had it replaced at a local shop. Three thousand miles or so later it went out again. When it goes out the car still runs, but stutters when you try to accelerate. My question, has anyone else ever had this issue, I'm thinking of buying another switch and put in my tool box when I travel just in case it happens again on the road. The first time it happened, we were close to a garage and got it fixed right away, the second time I was three blocks from my house, Auto Zone said the switch was defective....was it or was something else going on. The mechanic I know had trouble installing the first new switch....almost two hours, the second time I installed it.....45 mins, they only charged me 1 hr at the shop, but I wonder if he did something to the new switch. I now have almost 5000 miles on the second switch, so far so good.
 

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Hello! I just bought my 2nd CRV and overall 3rd for my family. I had a similar issue with my 2010 with the rear wiper cleaner and the hose was disconnected. I was thinking it would be a big expensive thing to fix but I bet yours is a hose issue. Some of the sensors are iffy but I haven’t encountered the tailgating issue
 

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What Tigris said. The tailgate system consists of the latch/actuator and the outer handle switch. Each has a 2-pin connector. Continuity testing of both should reveal the culprit.
 

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I’ve had 3 jeeps and 2 crvs and there’s NO comparison at all!! Honda’s are in a completely different class. I just bought an 07 exl and I had a 2010 exl that I sold back in the summer. It probably a sensor causing your issue or the hitch that keeps the gate closed it worn or loose. I had one wrangler for less than a year traded it because of a rattling noise, then got a commander which had transmission issues after owning it a week I traded it for the 10 crv. I also had a wrangler with an engine issue. No more jeeps for me! Only Honda’s! You might have a small issue here or there but mine 07 has 231k miles on it and still running like it has 100k on it or less
 

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The tailgate needs to be closed harder, the way to make sure it's closed is to pull the chrome part of above the license plate, make sure it doesn't move.
 
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