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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings. I am a new member from the Philadelphia area. I am a new owner of a used 2013 CR-V. 41,000 miles. It's a great vehicle! This is my first Honda, and I am now a big fan. I was pleasantly surprised to get 31 mpg on a few long highway trips (with Econ mode on).

THANKS. I just changed the rear differential fluid, with the help of postings on the Forum (The Black Pearl and others). Thank you to those in the forum who put in the effort to record information and DIY procedures for others.

QUESTION. Can anyone point me to a DIY procedure for throttle body cleaning? I found a few comments by searching the forum but I haven't yet found a start-to-finish description.

Many thanks!

If useful to others, here are my notes from the differential fluid change. If this information is viewed as redundant and not useful, I can edit it out of this post.

DIY procedure for changing differential fluid on Honda CR-V (4th Generation, 2012-2016)

I wrote this short summary based on write-ups and videos I found (thank you to all those who shared their experience, particularly member Black Pearl) and my experience of changing the fluid only one time. If a condensed summary is useful to you, I hope this helps. If you need more information, please see the posts by others.

The procedure was easier and faster than changing the engine oil. It took about 30-45 min.

I did not raise the car. The working space was tight but OK.

• Honda Genuine Dual Pump II Differential Fluid (Honda Part 08200-9007) - 2 liters (1.3 L needed)
• 18-mm drain plug crush washer (Honda Part 90471-PX4-000)
• 20-mm fill plug crush washer (Honda Part 94109-20000)

Companies often charge a special hazardous material fee to ship differential fluid. So I ordered the fluid on-line from the parts department of a local Honda dealer and picked it up. Why did I order on-line? At my local dealer it is about 20% less expensive if I order on-line and pick it up rather than walking in to the service department to place the order. I bought packages of the crush washers from on-line suppliers. The 18-mm washer was $2.77/washer at the dealer and $0.90/washer when I bought a pack of 5 on-line.

Tools and other items:
• 3/8” socket wrench with 2” extension
• Torque wrench
• Pan to collect fluid as it drains (I used my oil change pan).
• Hand pump to add the fluid (I used a Plews 55001 Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump. Cost ~$8. It delivers 4 mL per pump stroke. It takes a while to fill the differential, but the procedure is clean.)
• Scrap cardboard or something else to lie on while under the car, and to catch any spills.
• Safety glasses, gloves

Optional items and notes:
• I sprayed the plugs with a penetrating lubricant a few days before I planned to change the fluid (I used SeaFoam but it doesn’t matter what you use). I don’t know if this is necessary but as someone else mentioned it is an easy step and might make the job easier.
• I loosened the fill plug first. Many people say it is good to do this because you will be stuck if you cannot open the fill plug after you drain the fluid.
• Differential fluid is an oil-based product. Bring it to a location that recycles engine oil.

Location of differential and plugs

The differential is approximately in the middle of the two rear wheels. If you are looking from the rear of the car to the front, the drain plug is on the right and the fill plug is on the left. A 3/8” drive fits the head of both plugs.

Fastener Screw Auto part Nut Metal


• Clean: Wipe the area around each fill plug to reduce the change of getting dirt into the differential when you remove the plugs.
• Loosen: Use 3/8” socket to loosen the fill plug. You don’t need to take it off. You loosen it first only to make sure you can remove it after you remove the drain plug. The fluid drains out well even when the fill plug is closed. I wore work gloves when I loosened the plugs to avoid skinned knuckles. I switched to latex gloves when I moved to the drain and fill part.
• Drain: Place a drain pan under the drain plug. Use the 3/8” socket to remove the drain plug. Let it drain for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, wipe the drain plug clean. Replace the crush washer. Reinstall the drain plug. Torque to 35 ft lbs. Wipe the area clean.
• Fill: Remove the fill plug. Wipe the fill plug clean. Replace the crush washer. Fill using the hand pump. Stop when the fluid begins to trickle out from the filling hole. The approximate amount needed is 1.3 L. Reinstall the fill plug. Torque to 35 ft lbs. Wipe the area clean.
• Clean up: Put the used fluid in a container and take it to a recycling location.

Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
11,848 Posts
QUESTION. Can anyone point me to a DIY procedure for throttle body cleaning? I found a few comments by searching the forum but I haven't yet found a start-to-finish description.
It's pretty basic.

Tools/cleaners needed:

Clean, lint-free cloths or foam brush (no paper towels!)
Intake (or MAF) cleaner
Philips or nut driver for air duct clamps

1. Remove the rubber intake air duct. Unplug any sensors mounted to it.

2. Observe the throttle 'butterfly'. Open it with a finger.

3. WIPE the bore and BOTH sides (especially the edges) of the butterfly valve with a lint free cloth rag soaked in MAF or INTAKE cleaner. (Avoid CARB cleaners, they are too strong for the plastics inside modern cars!) Don't spray anything into the TB for this reason.

4. Using another cloth, do it again. The cloth should end up very clean.

5. Reassemble the air duct. Make sure ALL sensors are plugged in. Double-check that the clamps holding it in place are snug (so that you cannot pull the duct off).

6. Start Car. When the engine is warm perform the Idle Learn Procedure. (look it up...basically, let idle without A/C or cooling fans on, for at least 5 minutes)

Enjoy a smoother, more consistent idle!
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