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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I took a chance and after researching numerous forum discussions, watched several YouTube videos, looked at several suppliers technical bulletins, I finally felt confident enough to replace the factory head unit. I have the (in name only) “premium” 7 speaker stereo with navigation. It seems the aftermarket harness manufacturers just don’t like this model! There are NO plug and play setups available.

The following is a general account of my installation of a new stereo head unit in my 2012 CRV with Navigation and the (in name only) premium 7 speaker sound system. Follow my instructions at your own risk. My descriptions are specific to the Pioneer radio I chose, the Metra harness and my specific Honda trim line. Your radio, the wiring harnesses and skills may differ from mine. Or, you could simply have different luck!

Most of the equipment came from Crutchfield. Here is what I installed …

Pioneer DMH-2660NEX (With their package deal of …)
Scosche HA1714B dash mount kit
Metra 70-1730 Wiring Harness (I would have used PAC’s RP-HD11 but Crutchfield does not stock it)
Metra 40-HD11 Antenna Adapter
Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control.
In addition I purchased separately a Parking Brake Bypass (Amazon) and
PAC Volt-39 (step down transformer from 12 to 6 volts for backup camera)

Crutchfield did forward a “WireGuide”, which was quite helpful. But, is currently missing some important information. The "Mastersheet" is not really that useful.

Some of the unknowns and exceptions I found were the connections for the backup camera, the subwoofer, the reverse trigger, headlight dimmer issue and several simple items such as where the purple, green, white and grey RCA connectors go on the back of the radio when the Pioneer has red, white, and yellow connectors – and no readily available explanation as to what goes where! I finally found out: white RCA goes front left, grey RCA goes front right, green RCA goes rear left and purple RCA goes rear right. Of course, one of the attachments they sent did have that information (I just missed it). The separate/single white subwoofer RCA goes on the white connection/bottom row (of the Pioneer - others will vary).

Subwoofer connection
One of the exceptions is the separate subwoofer connection. The supplied Metra harness has a small grey connector that is supposed to plug into the car’s original harness. And, after a call to Crutchfield’s tech help, they promised there was a Honda plug in the dash to accept that Metra male plug. This is wrong. I did a video chat with the tech and he eventually agreed that their information is incorrect. On my CRV (and probably yours), there was no such plug. The solution was found with one of Metra’s competitors; PAC. PAC notes in one of their harness technical bulletins (look up PAC’s RP4-HD11) that the grey plug must be removed and the RCA (lone white RCA cable) wired directly to the factory 16 pin vehicle connector with (+) going to pin 3 and (-) going to pin 11. The (PAC) picture below is correct – figure 3.

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Backup Camera
While PAC’s description of the subwoofer connection worked, the wiring notations for the backup camera are WRONG! (Fig. 4 above) They do include the correct picture of the respective harness. But, their description as to which wires to jump is not accurate. Instead, there is a video, by an installer out of Florida (he’s been noted on this forum before – skip to the 11:40 minute mark) that has the solution.


In his video, he identifies what the wire color sequence is – which does match PAC’s Fig. 4 above. But, he then puts a multi-meter on the various pins and located the power wires as well as which ones provided the video signal. They are shown below (and again - don’t match what PAC says):

Color: Black Grey Red White Blank Green Yellow
Pin #: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
RCA(-) RCA(+) Pwr(-) Pwr(+)
*1 *2
*1: Wire the PAC Volt39 black wire here (pin 6/green) and to ground (somewhere on the harness)
*2: Wire the PAC Volt39 red/white wire to the pin 7/yellow wire.

There was also a comment on that video that provided some additional clarification (16th entry down from the top). It did provide some additional help.

Reverse Trigger
For the reverse trigger, the Crutchfield WireGuide notes to connect the Pioneer Purple/White wire to the Brown wire of the CRV at the fuse box, 44 pin plug (B). But, there are at least 4 plugs at that location, with 3 that are large. While this might have worked, I could not easily find that wire. As an alternative, the Five Star Stereo video, noted above, found (at the 10:20 minute mark in the video) the 12 volts needed for the trigger, out of a plug in the dash. That plug is a 20 pin grey connector, brown wire with silver spots, seated next to a red wire. I found mine, checked it with a volt meter (voltage when in reverse) and it worked.

I wired these up using his findings and now the factory backup camera is functioning. It does have that annoying fish-eye, but is clearer than the previous Honda display.

Brake Bypass
The brake bypass was simple. The Bypass component has 3 wires. The Blue wire attaches to the Blue/White on the Pioneer harness (yours may vary). The black wire goes to ground on the Metra harness. The Bypass Green wire to the Light Green wire on the Pioneer harness (do not attach that light green wire to the car’s parking brake signal wire – blue wire, as noted in the WireGuide). Of course, you know you are not supposed to drive and watch videos at the same time.

Auto Headlight/Radio Dimmer
The Crutchfield WireGuide also notes that the Orange/White wire from the Pioneer harness goes to the Orange wire on the Metra 70-1730 harness. While this might work, there were reports that when the headlights were in “Auto” mode, the Pioneer would not dim when the headlights came on. This was solved by NOT connecting to the Orange Metra wire and instead connecting to the Hazard Switch - Grey Wire. I tested it and it presented 12 volts when the lights came on via “Auto”.

The Axxess Steering Wheel Control
Prior to the initial installation (and before locking it all down), the Axxess box must be updated with the latest firmware. Go to their website, plug in a cell phone USB cord to that pesky little door, and follow the instructions for updating the firmware (you must use a PC no Mac). Then it will be time to plug it in and program the Axxess box. Once all of the harness connections are hooked up, start the engine, AND make sure the steering wheel is straight. Then follow Metra/Axxess’s written instructions, which are “ok”, but Metra/Axxess has some videos that do help. This one helped as well:


Bluetooth HFL Box
The Honda Bluetooth box is located behind the gearshift (not behind the glove box), in the most inaccessible spot they could possibly imagine. The access is possible via the removal of the trim around the gear shift (not the middle piece with the shift letters). The Bluetooth box is then visible and the 32 pin connector can be wedged out with a couple of long flathead screwdrivers. I managed to get the plug up into the gap where the factory radio was removed and tap the pin 15 wire (as instructed by Axxess).

Final notes

I followed the Crutchfield WireGuide to finish the remainder of the connections, sort of using it as a check list. Of those connections that had to go to existing Honda connectors (including the Metra/Access requirements and changes or exceptions to the WireGuide), I soldered or tapped into the respective wires leaving a tail with a connector on the end. Thus, if my endeavor went south, none of the Honda connectors were cut and I could simply unplug the Pioneer/Metra harness and put the factory radio right back in (until it goes on Ebay!).

As several others have discovered, the clock on the iMid is functioning, but cannot be adjusted. Thus, I will resort to the battery terminal removal process to set the time. I’ll be putting a new battery in this weekend – so I’ll find out how well that works (converting to a 24F).

The gas mileage screen is the only functioning visual on the iMid aside from the menu, and the compass is gone (I kinda miss that one). While the steering wheel up/down/source buttons do work, the Bluetooth buttons are not functioning, except for the voice command. Strangely, I never used any of those buttons except the voice – so I’m ok. That might be a programming error on my part. But, I probably won’t uninstall the radio, just to get to the Axxess box to experiment.

I’ve only had the Pioneer installed a few days and have not discovered any other problems. Even with the stock speakers, the sound is immensely better, the display is clear and crisp, Android Auto works seamlessly, and the HD radio is fantastic
 

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2013 Honda CR-V EX-L (no navigation)
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Impressive! This was more difficult that I would imagine. I still haven’t started my stereo project yet because I found a lot of incorrect info from these manuals like you describe here. Maybe I need to start and solve issues one by one like you did. Mine has no navigation but still has subwoofer and premium.
You could still try and connect the steering wheel phone buttons
10.1 Android Replacement for a 2013
Why you had to disconnect the Bluetooth module? I thought that without getting on/off signal from the factory headunit anymore thru GA-net comm, it will stay permanently off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice write up! But, no pictures of the head unit installed?
Aha ... you're right ...
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142510


As you can see the Scosche dash kit is a good "fit" to the dash, however it does stand out in terms of color (not quite a match). The Pioneer face also sits back almost a half inch - not flush. I do not know if other brands of dash kits would be a better choice.

In the second picture you can see the taps I used where soldering was a bit difficult. Those taps work well with larger gauge wire, but a require the insulation to be stripped off for finer gauge wire to ensure the pin contacts the few strands of wire. Otherwise the pin could miss entirely.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Impressive! This was more difficult that I would imagine. I still haven’t started my stereo project yet because I found a lot of incorrect info from these manuals like you describe here. Maybe I need to start and solve issues one by one like you did. Mine has no navigation but still has subwoofer and premium.
You could still try and connect the steering wheel phone buttons
10.1 Android Replacement for a 2013
Why you had to disconnect the Bluetooth module? I thought that without getting on/off signal from the factory headunit anymore thru GA-net comm, it will stay permanently off.
Unless I get really enthusiastic, I do not want to remove the new radio just to attempt to reprogram the Axxess box. It is not an easy task and I could muck it up. Although ... it could happen.

Regarding the Bluetooth, the Metra/Axxess instructions say (or imply) it needs to be unplugged. So that is what I did. And, unplugging it was THE only way to access that wire. Plugging it back in would probably require more dash/console disassembly - nearly impossible given where it is located.
 

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I know that this is a year old, but just wanted to say thank you for posting this! I'm in the middle of swapping my head unit out - and I also have a 2012 w/ Nav and am really scratching my head on what they hell's going on. I've installed a few head units throughout my life, but I've never done one like this. Looks like I'm going to have to order a few more parts to make this work. I ordered my head unit from Crutchfield, along with their install kit, but I don't have the Parking Brake Pass and the PAC Volt-39 kit.

Big thanks on your write-up! Happy Thanksgiving!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know that this is a year old, but just wanted to say thank you for posting this! I'm in the middle of swapping my head unit out - and I also have a 2012 w/ Nav and am really scratching my head on what they hell's going on. I've installed a few head units throughout my life, but I've never done one like this. Looks like I'm going to have to order a few more parts to make this work. I ordered my head unit from Crutchfield, along with their install kit, but I don't have the Parking Brake Pass and the PAC Volt-39 kit.

Big thanks on your write-up! Happy Thanksgiving!
Happy Thanksgiving!

I hope your installation goes as planned - a success. So far mine has worked flawlessly. But, given the needed prior research, complicated installation, and time ... I'll never do it again!! Or, at least I don't think so.
 

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Happy Thanksgiving!

I hope your installation goes as planned - a success. So far mine has worked flawlessly. But, given the needed prior research, complicated installation, and time ... I'll never do it again!! Or, at least I don't think so.
We'll see! The PAC Volt-39 kit and E-Brake Bypass should be here tomorrow, and then I should be able to fully complete the install.

The 32-PIN connector (for the Bluetooth HFL) was a pain to get to, but hopefully I don't have to plug it back in after tapping into the yellow (Pin 15) cable. Do you remember if you had to plug it back in? EDIT: I spoke with Axxess tech support, you do not have to plug the HFL module back in (THANK GOD)

I'm pretty excited to get this project wrapped up and the car pieced back together. I'll be upgrading the speakers soon, and installing Kilmat and noise-reducing foam on the insides of the door panels while I'm in there. Are you running any aftermarket speakers or amp/sub?

Once again, huge thanks on doing your write-up and sharing it online. You saved me days of agony!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We'll see! The PAC Volt-39 kit and E-Brake Bypass should be here tomorrow, and then I should be able to fully complete the install.

The 32-PIN connector (for the Bluetooth HFL) was a pain to get to, but hopefully I don't have to plug it back in after tapping into the yellow (Pin 15) cable. Do you remember if you had to plug it back in? EDIT: I spoke with Axxess tech support, you do not have to plug the HFL module back in (THANK GOD)

I'm pretty excited to get this project wrapped up and the car pieced back together. I'll be upgrading the speakers soon, and installing Kilmat and noise-reducing foam on the insides of the door panels while I'm in there. Are you running any aftermarket speakers or amp/sub?

Once again, huge thanks on doing your write-up and sharing it online. You saved me days of agony!
Currently, I still have the stock speakers. However, I have a stack of insulation (similar to your product) to retrofit into the car. But, that is for another day.
 
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