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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

New member here to the forum. Just recently purchased a 2001 2WD with 115K miles on it. Timing belt was done at 90K. I got it for $2100 since it has a P0172 running rich issue.

I hooked my scanner up to it and viewed live data. Primary O2 sensor is fluctuating between .1 and .9V, engine temp is where its supposed to be, MAP fluctuates depending on load and throttle.

I have not had a chance to check fuel pressure and the regulator since I dont have a gauge that will work on this vehicle. Can someone guide me in the right direction?
 

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Could be a bad injector putting too much gas into a cylinder.
A couple of things to try:
1) Put in a good dose of injector cleaner into the gas tank: Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus or SeaFoam for example.
2) Clean the MAP
3)Install a new fuel filter and check your engine air filter: K&N fuel filter on ebay for around $15 with free shipping
4)Do a valve lash adjustment
5)Make sure your spark plugs are the recommended ones and not Bosch: NGK 4291 ZFR6F-11 V-Power Plug
6)A rich mixture can cause a cat converter failure: check it with an infrared thermometer
7)Possible bad engine temp sensor keeping it in 'open' loop mode (your scanner should show this)

How does it run? Idle? Power? Smoothness? MPG?

Also check out these posts: http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/17434-my-catalytic-converter-clogged-2.html
Be sure and read post#15 and read all the posts for some possible solutions.

I believe the 2001 also has a distributor and it isn't uncommon for the coil or igniter to get weaker or fail on those. Don't forget to check the rotor, cap and high tension spark plugs wires. :)

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could be a bad injector putting too much gas into a cylinder.
A couple of things to try:
1) Put in a good dose of injector cleaner into the gas tank: Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus or SeaFoam for example.
2) Clean the MAP
3)Install a new fuel filter and check your engine air filter: K&N fuel filter on ebay for around $15 with free shipping
4)Do a valve lash adjustment
5)Make sure your spark plugs are the recommended ones and not Bosch: NGK 4291 ZFR6F-11 V-Power Plug
6)A rich mixture can cause a cat converter failure: check it with an infrared thermometer
7)Possible bad engine temp sensor keeping it in 'open' loop mode (your scanner should show this)

How does it run? Idle? Power? Smoothness? MPG?

Be sure and read post#15 and read all the posts for some possible solutions.

I believe the 2001 also has a distributor and it isn't uncommon for the coil or igniter to get weaker or fail on those. Don't forget to check the rotor, cap and high tension spark plugs wires. :)

Buffalo4

Thanks for the breakdown of things to do. It idles smooth, has plenty of power but I dont know exactly what MPG im getting.

1. I have not run anythin gin the tank as of yet. But will do.

2. I did clean the MAP

3. Have not done fuel filter yet. It has original on it. Air filter is new.

4. Have not done valve check.

5. Spark plugs are NGK iridiums

6. scanner showed closed loop and temp was p to about 173 or so.


It does have new NGK blue wires on it. Distributor was replaced although it wasnt a Honda part.
 

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NGK 6441 ZFR6FIX-11 IX Iridium Plug is one of the recommended plugs, but many use the cheaper V-power ones with excellent results.
Good on 'open' loop. Not sure which temp sensor gives the reading to the computer.
With not 'missing' the ignition system seems good with the possible exception of the timing, which may be off.
Since the distributor was replaced, it would be wise to check that ignition timing.
I guess someone figured that the old distributor was a problem and it would be interesting to find out what the symptoms were that made someone change it.
The valve lash should be checked, but I doubt it will help your issue. On that generation of CRV, the exhaust valves would start receding into the valve seat and cause a tight (less valve lash) adj and, as it got worse, it wouldn't let the exhaust valve close all the way resulting in a burned valve and valve seat.
The fuel filter and injector cleaner would be high on my list.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #5
NGK 6441 ZFR6FIX-11 IX Iridium Plug is one of the recommended plugs, but many use the cheaper V-power ones with excellent results.
Good on 'open' loop. Not sure which temp sensor gives the reading to the computer.
With not 'missing' the ignition system seems good with the possible exception of the timing, which may be off.
Since the distributor was replaced, it would be wise to check that ignition timing.
I guess someone figured that the old distributor was a problem and it would be interesting to find out what the symptoms were that made someone change it.
The valve lash should be checked, but I doubt it will help your issue. On that generation of CRV, the exhaust valves would start receding into the valve seat and cause a tight (less valve lash) adj and, as it got worse, it wouldn't let the exhaust valve close all the way resulting in a burned valve and valve seat.
The fuel filter and injector cleaner would be high on my list.

Buffalo4
Filter and cleaner are about the cheapest thing I can do. I need it anyway even if thats not my issue.

Do you happen to know what type of Fuel pressure gauge I need to go ahead and test fuel pressure and the FPR?
 

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I don't know about the fuel pressure gauge or where most would attach it.
Call your local parts store and see if they have tools to loan out.
See if you can check the timing advance on your scanner to see if it is within specs.
You should be able to pick up a shop manual in pdf form on the Internet for free or around $10.
I dl'd one free for the 1997-2000 crv but I don't recall where.
Do more Googling for that particular code and possible causes and fixes.
http://www.helpforcars.net/obd_codes/p0172_honda.html
Pull the spark plugs as they may give you an indication of the problem. Pretty quick and free.
Buffalo4
 
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