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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title suggest I recently picked up a low mileage 09 CR-V so we are now a 2 CR-V family, my wife has a 18 we purchased new.
Here in Houston we are known for flooded streets, I have tried to travel back the intake to determine what I can safely do.
Looks as if the primary with the air filter is connected to a resonator box that sits down by the bottom part of the radiator.

The flash flood events here can put you in a position where you either need to go through some water or be trapped while it rises all around you - what has been the experience of others regarding a safe water depth.

I have quite a bit of experience with this so I will be traveling the appropriate speed, bow wake and all those other good details.
Thanks in advance
 

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Turn around, don’t drown.......yourself, your wife or the V. Leave the bow wake to the boats. Those Weather Channel videos of submerged cars/deaths.......WTF? Why? Don’t they say on the Weather Channel just 6” of flowing water can move a car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for your feedback, it is rising water not flowing water. Here is a section of my post referencing "why" -

The flash flood events here can put you in a position where you either need to go through some water or be trapped while it rises all around you - what has been the experience of others regarding a safe water depth.

I did laugh when you quoted the fear mongering weather channel. The same people who stand in ditches to make the storms look worse than they actually are- take that advice with a grain of salt
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for your feedback, it is rising water not flowing water. Here is a section of my post referencing "why" -

The flash flood events here can put you in a position where you either need to go through some water or be trapped while it rises all around you - what has been the experience of others regarding a safe water depth.

I did laugh when you quoted the fear mongering weather channel. The same people who stand in ditches to make the storms look worse than they actually are- take that advice with a grain of salt
To add and be fair, we know how deep this water is - its easy to tell and we have gauges in almost every low area due to the frequency of floods here. It is a very common part of living in Houston and we face this situation multiple times a year in our daily commute. I would never enter water I am unsure of the depth, just need to now what depth is safe for the vehicle.
 

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Ok........I'm sure some will chime in with a safe water depth.:rolleyes:
 

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All you need are some huge instantly-inflatable rubber tubes so your CR-V can ride like a pontoon boat or rubber raft through the floods. Although the AWD would have been handy--adapt it to use a boat propeller on the back. Don't ask where to install the bilge pump, though.?

After having drowned an Acura TL, I can safely say I'd rather not be out when it's raining heavily. Although like you say it's unavoidable. I probably wouldn't take my '09 CR-Vs in anything deeper than eight inches. I'd be more concerned about the water entering the passenger compartment, getting into the carpeting and any electronics that might be mounted to the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All you need are some huge instantly-inflatable rubber tubes so your CR-V can ride like a pontoon boat or rubber raft through the floods. Although the AWD would have been handy--adapt it to use a boat propeller on the back. Don't ask where to install the bilge pump, though.?

After having drowned an Acura TL, I can safely say I'd rather not be out when it's raining heavily. Although like you say it's unavoidable. I probably wouldn't take my '09 CR-Vs in anything deeper than eight inches. I'd be more concerned about the water entering the passenger compartment, getting into the carpeting and any electronics that might be mounted to the floor.

A little outboard from the back hatch!

I generally am able to avoid anything higher than the hubs. Its probably been 6-7 years since I was in water over the hubs. My main concern is the secondary breather box by the bottom of the radiator appears to have slots cut into from the photos I have seen. I am not sure if this is just part of the design for baffles inside and it is sealed or if air is drawn in here also. It has a little intake that connects to it which pulls air from the top of the bumper. Probably 26-32" from ground level which seams like a reasonable level - I would actually be shocked if it pulled in air at the secondary but its hotter than hell here right now and I would prefer to avoid not taking apart my car to confirm if I dont have to.

I know to check fluids and all that good stuff after and certainly I would not be looking to go in anything that would come past to the bottom of the door seals. These flash floods here are crazy at times and I have yet to drown out a single vehicle and I have been in high water probably 30+ times due to the amount I drive in my daily commute and the horrible drainage here in Houston. Also never had water in the Diffs, interior, tranny or the oil - although I still religiously check after
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Was able to dodge flooding the last couple days but this is the sort of crazy weather I am referencing that we deal with here in Houston
 

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The CRV have have a snorkel like tubing, where it pull in the cool air from the front bumper, 3 in below the driver side headlight. As long as you don't submerged to that point, you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The CRV have have a snorkel like tubing, where it pull in the cool air from the front bumper, 3 in below the driver side headlight. As long as you don't submerged to that point, you should be fine.
Man you register 47 minutes ago and have all sorts of great feedback on a variety of post! Wildcat and CRV383 post pretty regularly, but we certainly welcome some fresh activity in here! In dreading the day Wildcat sells his 09's and moves on! Welcome and thanks for commenting, this is what I was thinking after I pulled out the reservoir and looked around with a flashlight.

Houston just cant seem to stay out of these storms, I avoid water at all coe but you never know when you are going to have to sneak across 12-18" for short while and its nice to know where the intake draws from.
 

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Man you register 47 minutes ago and have all sorts of great feedback on a variety of post! Wildcat and CRV383 post pretty regularly, but we certainly welcome some fresh activity in here! In dreading the day Wildcat sells his 09's and moves on! Welcome and thanks for commenting, this is what I was thinking after I pulled out the reservoir and looked around with a flashlight.

Houston just cant seem to stay out of these storms, I avoid water at all coe but you never know when you are going to have to sneak across 12-18" for short while and its nice to know where the intake draws from.
No problem. I've been snooping around this forum for quite sometime, but not really active. I owned a 08 CRV EX-L, and done a good amount of work on it so I some ideas on where certain part are located. This is ones of my favorite model year, and almost everything are relatively easy to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No problem. I've been snooping around this forum for quite sometime, but not really active. I owned a 08 CRV EX-L, and done a good amount of work on it so I some ideas on where certain part are located. This is ones of my favorite model year, and almost everything are relatively easy to work on.
Nice! What sort of mileage and work have you done?

I know the A/C compressor tends to be a weak link, what else should i look out for?
 

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I bought the car [email protected] ~ 70K miles. So I would think the AC compressor has been replaces. Now I am at 134K no issue, top off the refrigerant and off I go. AC work can become complicate without the correct equipment and knowledge, so I can't offer much there.
Beside that, I rebuilded most of my front and rear suspension component (preventative), lowered 1.5 in front 1.7in rear on HR spring, serpentine belt, HID retrofit, switch ATF to Valvoline maxlife. Let me know if I can offer any suggestion on what you plan to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I bought the car [email protected] ~ 70K miles. So I would think the AC compressor has been replaces. Now I am at 134K no issue, top off the refrigerant and off I go. AC work can become complicate without the correct equipment and knowledge, so I can't offer much there.
Beside that, I rebuilded most of my front and rear suspension component (preventative), lowered 1.5 in front 1.7in rear on HR spring, serpentine belt, HID retrofit, switch ATF to Valvoline maxlife. Let me know if I can offer any suggestion on what you plan to work on.
Sounds pretty slick! So far I have owned it almost 3 weeks.

Purchased a 2009 with 61k from a local used car place, purchased 48k warranty which covers most items and they said and I can take it anywhere including Honda for repairs.

Replaced all of the chrome/window gaskets that were all jacked up on all 4 windows.
Purchased a new battery as old one was 4 years old
Added a K&N drop in filter and replaced the cabin filter.
They replaced 1 of the electric cooling fans I noticed was not coming on

They added brand new tires so I am good there - at the next rotation I will inspect amount of brake pads left.

Need to do a trans fluid drop, change the oil to some decent synthetic and I want to have the valves adjusted.
With the VC gasket I will just have them do the plugs them too just to mark it off my list.

Only issue is a very light ping at higher RPMS - I have run through 2 tanks of good PEA based fuel system cleaner without much change. Odd thing is regular gas it does it - premium gas it goes away.

Still trying to figure that out, I am leaning towards bad EGR. Other than that everything is great and she runs really well
 

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Odd about that pinging--I get that also, ever since having purchased it in 2016. It did seem better out west, where I was putting in either the highest octane fuel or better yet, ethanol-free (which gave me the best gas mileage on those tankfuls). I have stretches out there where I'm at 5,000 RPM just trying to keep up with traffic, and I don't recall hearing the pinging. I can't get ethanol-free here except from one station about eight miles away. $4.09/gallon, 90 octane. (I bought some today for the lawn equipment.) The boat docks and marinas within two miles of me all have ethanol-free but can't refuel automobiles, and they are even more expensive. It is only sold in our state for "recreational" use. You'd think it was cannabis or something. ?

I've found around 120-140k miles is when I started having all of the issues. They seem to be mileage related since I've seen the same parts go bad around the same time in both CR-Vs. Ours were built only about six or seven weeks apart, and we have similar mileage on both. Mine does not get driven much during the week (I work from home often), but I take two long road trips each year of at least 5,000 miles each. The other is used for a 40 mile round trip commute daily.

The struts, sure, were probably due anyways, but they got really noisy in the blue '09 in front, and the driver's side rear in my tan (OK, "Borrego Beige Metallic") '09 was leaking onto the driveway. Strangely, others here have had that exact same strut leak, and that same strut in the blue '09 also had some oil on it--not yet leaking on the driveway, but it was not clean like the other side!

The only bad thing is, I went with the better Monroes, and they've proven to be as bad as others here (and on other Honda forums) have hinted. My front left strut is noisier than the blue '09 was, and it's only been about a year. The right clunks occasionally, and now the right rear is making noise (although I think the nut on top of the strut needs to be torqued--I know that sound all too well). I had put Monroes on the rear of our TL and they were excellent. So, who knows what changed. I'm getting new KYBs for the front of mine now, now that they have the "Strut Plus" pre-loaded and ready to mount.

My AC clutch went out on a road trip, after a stop for lunch in a small town in western Minnesota. So after our stops at Badlands and Yellowstone, I had to divert to Salt Lake City and have Ken Garff Honda replace it for me, and their service department was excellent! (And we rented a '17 Civic EX-T for the day. So it was not all bad, other than the bill!) That was early August. By May the next year, the AC clutch in the blue '09 went out. For both, I had them do the whole compressor and check over the entire system.

The starter failed in the blue '09 this year in February. Naturally, during the coldest stretch of weather we had all winter, so the dealer did it for us. Mine had seemed to be straining a bit when cranking, so I replaced it in April myself. It still cranked a little slower than the blue '09, and the battery finally pooped out in July this year. Not trusting the alternator, I went ahead and changed that, since the upcoming road trip had us on hundreds of miles of rural roads with no cell tower signal. Cranks great now, just like the other one.

I've done both of our evap canister purge valve/solenoid thingies, or whatever they are called--those are the ones that throw the Check Fuel Cap message. $40-ish (?) for each sensor, and maybe 15 minutes work.

I had a mysterious whine that was probably the power steering pump. It was noisy when I got home from my road trip last year in August, but it was gone after returning from this year's road trip during the same time.

I've proactively changed the timing chain tensioner in mine; I ordered one for the blue '09 but it was damaged in shipment or something since it was already popped out. I've also replaced my belt idler thinking it was whining--it wasn't, but the bearing was worn anyway. While I was in there, I proactively threw on a new water pump.

The rear disc brakes can be finicky. On both of ours, the driver's side rear pads were seizing up. On mine, the metal brake hardware had corroded, so I replaced it when I did the pads. But on the blue '09, I found a torn caliper pin boot, so the caliper itself had seized. (That was another February job this year--it was a balmy 18°F, warmer than near 0°F and windy when the starter crapped out...and I also finished the job up in an inch of snow, in the dark!) I use only Akebono pads now, and replace all the steel hardware along with cleaning out and relubing the caliper pins.

TPMS error light keeps coming on in the blue '09 intermittently (not the low tire pressure light). I'm betting the TPMS sensors have weak batteries by now. I put new Denso sensors in mine, but the shop didn't feed the IDs into the ECU, so I have to go to my neighbor's shop and have his son work his magic to program them. The batteries I believe are good for ~10 years, so those are a time-related fix.

My front suspension bushings seemed OK, but the rear upper control arm looks as though it should be replaced since the bushing in there is a bit dry-rotted. I've already replaced the stabilizer bar bushings--the rears only take a few minutes apiece. The fronts can be tricky unless you remove the front wheels, since they are mounted on top of the mount for the lower control arms. (Don't try to do it from underneath--I tried it on one, and it took a good hour to get the bolts back in!)

Sorry to ramble, but in a nutshell that's all the age/wear related stuff I have had to deal with, aside from the usual tires, wipers, oils and fluids. I've seen a few quirky or unique problems here on the forum but overall, I don't think mine are anything special that hasn't already been mentioned in other threads. (Think of it as a checklist as your 3rd gen CR-V gets older.)

It is only bothersome because in my '97, I hardly had to replace anything in it over its 290,000 miles of service--still the original compressor, alternator, power steering pump, engine and trans, etc.. If the parking pawl in the transmission hadn't gone wonky, it probably would still be on the road today.
 

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@Scott091981 the pinging issue, I don't have much experiences, as I don't have the issue even with the cheaper gas quality we have here in CA. What I can suggest is reset your ECU ( disconnect the battery for ~5min), make sure air filter is clean, clean the MAF sensor, check sparkplugs. Hopefully, that will help out with the pinging. I'm speculating O2 sensor might be culprit.
K&N filter, not a big fan of it, as the oil may over time my clog the MAF sensor, unless you able to find the dry filter element , then you are good. Otherwise, I myself use the paper filter element, work just as fine. Transfluid, Valvoline maxlife been awesome for me, if you want to give it a try, make sure to change the trans filter as well.

@Wildcat thanks for the sharing. Alot of the components on the car that each of us have to deal with varies depending on region. So can't say I have to deal with much of the stuff you've mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Odd about that pinging--I get that also, ever since having purchased it in 2016. It did seem better out west, where I was putting in either the highest octane fuel or better yet, ethanol-free (which gave me the best gas mileage on those tankfuls). I have stretches out there where I'm at 5,000 RPM just trying to keep up with traffic, and I don't recall hearing the pinging. I can't get ethanol-free here except from one station about eight miles away. $4.09/gallon, 90 octane. (I bought some today for the lawn equipment.) The boat docks and marinas within two miles of me all have ethanol-free but can't refuel automobiles, and they are even more expensive. It is only sold in our state for "recreational" use. You'd think it was cannabis or something. ?

I've found around 120-140k miles is when I started having all of the issues. They seem to be mileage related since I've seen the same parts go bad around the same time in both CR-Vs. Ours were built only about six or seven weeks apart, and we have similar mileage on both. Mine does not get driven much during the week (I work from home often), but I take two long road trips each year of at least 5,000 miles each. The other is used for a 40 mile round trip commute daily.

The struts, sure, were probably due anyways, but they got really noisy in the blue '09 in front, and the driver's side rear in my tan (OK, "Borrego Beige Metallic") '09 was leaking onto the driveway. Strangely, others here have had that exact same strut leak, and that same strut in the blue '09 also had some oil on it--not yet leaking on the driveway, but it was not clean like the other side!

The only bad thing is, I went with the better Monroes, and they've proven to be as bad as others here (and on other Honda forums) have hinted. My front left strut is noisier than the blue '09 was, and it's only been about a year. The right clunks occasionally, and now the right rear is making noise (although I think the nut on top of the strut needs to be torqued--I know that sound all too well). I had put Monroes on the rear of our TL and they were excellent. So, who knows what changed. I'm getting new KYBs for the front of mine now, now that they have the "Strut Plus" pre-loaded and ready to mount.

My AC clutch went out on a road trip, after a stop for lunch in a small town in western Minnesota. So after our stops at Badlands and Yellowstone, I had to divert to Salt Lake City and have Ken Garff Honda replace it for me, and their service department was excellent! (And we rented a '17 Civic EX-T for the day. So it was not all bad, other than the bill!) That was early August. By May the next year, the AC clutch in the blue '09 went out. For both, I had them do the whole compressor and check over the entire system.

The starter failed in the blue '09 this year in February. Naturally, during the coldest stretch of weather we had all winter, so the dealer did it for us. Mine had seemed to be straining a bit when cranking, so I replaced it in April myself. It still cranked a little slower than the blue '09, and the battery finally pooped out in July this year. Not trusting the alternator, I went ahead and changed that, since the upcoming road trip had us on hundreds of miles of rural roads with no cell tower signal. Cranks great now, just like the other one.

I've done both of our evap canister purge valve/solenoid thingies, or whatever they are called--those are the ones that throw the Check Fuel Cap message. $40-ish (?) for each sensor, and maybe 15 minutes work.

I had a mysterious whine that was probably the power steering pump. It was noisy when I got home from my road trip last year in August, but it was gone after returning from this year's road trip during the same time.

I've proactively changed the timing chain tensioner in mine; I ordered one for the blue '09 but it was damaged in shipment or something since it was already popped out. I've also replaced my belt idler thinking it was whining--it wasn't, but the bearing was worn anyway. While I was in there, I proactively threw on a new water pump.

The rear disc brakes can be finicky. On both of ours, the driver's side rear pads were seizing up. On mine, the metal brake hardware had corroded, so I replaced it when I did the pads. But on the blue '09, I found a torn caliper pin boot, so the caliper itself had seized. (That was another February job this year--it was a balmy 18°F, warmer than near 0°F and windy when the starter crapped out...and I also finished the job up in an inch of snow, in the dark!) I use only Akebono pads now, and replace all the steel hardware along with cleaning out and relubing the caliper pins.

TPMS error light keeps coming on in the blue '09 intermittently (not the low tire pressure light). I'm betting the TPMS sensors have weak batteries by now. I put new Denso sensors in mine, but the shop didn't feed the IDs into the ECU, so I have to go to my neighbor's shop and have his son work his magic to program them. The batteries I believe are good for ~10 years, so those are a time-related fix.

My front suspension bushings seemed OK, but the rear upper control arm looks as though it should be replaced since the bushing in there is a bit dry-rotted. I've already replaced the stabilizer bar bushings--the rears only take a few minutes apiece. The fronts can be tricky unless you remove the front wheels, since they are mounted on top of the mount for the lower control arms. (Don't try to do it from underneath--I tried it on one, and it took a good hour to get the bolts back in!)

Sorry to ramble, but in a nutshell that's all the age/wear related stuff I have had to deal with, aside from the usual tires, wipers, oils and fluids. I've seen a few quirky or unique problems here on the forum but overall, I don't think mine are anything special that hasn't already been mentioned in other threads. (Think of it as a checklist as your 3rd gen CR-V gets older.)

It is only bothersome because in my '97, I hardly had to replace anything in it over its 290,000 miles of service--still the original compressor, alternator, power steering pump, engine and trans, etc.. If the parking pawl in the transmission hadn't gone wonky, it probably would still be on the road today.
You have certainly had a rough run, hard to say its random as you seem to have the same issues with both vehicles.

Im hoping to get some new parts covered under the warranty and have it in good shape going into 100k miles and hopefully have it last me 150k or so. I Would certainly feel I got my moneys worth by that point.

Your experience sounds like what I dealt with on my subaru. Dumped 7-8k into it during the final 18 months to sell it for less than 3500. Painful
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@Scott091981 the pinging issue, I don't have much experiences, as I don't have the issue even with the cheaper gas quality we have here in CA. What I can suggest is reset your ECU ( disconnect the battery for ~5min), make sure air filter is clean, clean the MAF sensor, check sparkplugs. Hopefully, that will help out with the pinging. I'm speculating O2 sensor might be culprit.
K&N filter, not a big fan of it, as the oil may over time my clog the MAF sensor, unless you able to find the dry filter element , then you are good. Otherwise, I myself use the paper filter element, work just as fine. Transfluid, Valvoline maxlife been awesome for me, if you want to give it a try, make sure to change the trans filter as well.

@Wildcat thanks for the sharing. Alot of the components on the car that each of us have to deal with varies depending on region. So can't say I have to deal with much of the stuff you've mentioned above.
I hear you about the K&N, just was hoping to get a tad more umph. Coming from a turbo subaru and then turbo Golf its hard with the limited HP of these motors. The situations were the same with the paper filers, I actually just dropped in the K&N last week.

I will clean the MAF and the spark plugs seem very easy- any way a regular guy like myself could check the O2?
So far no check engine lights.
 

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I hear you about the K&N, just was hoping to get a tad more umph. Coming from a turbo subaru and then turbo Golf its hard with the limited HP of these motors. The situations were the same with the paper filers, I actually just dropped in the K&N last week.

I will clean the MAF and the spark plugs seem very easy- any way a regular guy like myself could check the O2?
So far no check engine lights.
o2 sensor location.gif

Here is the approximate location of the O2 sensors. Below is the link to some reading on how you can test the O2 sensor. Again, it just my speculation about the O2. I just thought of another suggestion is some fuel system cleaner such as seafoam, in the gas tank may help. Since you mentioned higher octane gas you don't experience pinging, maybe the engine retard the timing to prevent detonation. Worse case, use high octane gas from now on, or mid-grade.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
View attachment 135652
Here is the approximate location of the O2 sensors. Below is the link to some reading on how you can test the O2 sensor. Again, it just my speculation about the O2. I just thought of another suggestion is some fuel system cleaner such as seafoam, in the gas tank may help. Since you mentioned higher octane gas you don't experience pinging, maybe the engine retard the timing to prevent detonation. Worse case, use high octane gas from now on, or mid-grade.

Since running some additional cleaner I would say the noise is 75% eliminated. Still might check into the o2.

I am getting the oil changed in a week or so, is the general consensus to stick with the 5-20 weight? I will be running full synthetic as It pains me to run conventasional for anything north of 3,750 and with synthetic at least I feel comfortable running it till 5k. I just don't know I can bring myself to do these 10k oil changes, maybe I will work my way up to 7,500.

After 3k and lots of highway driving the oil still looks very clean and peaking inside the oil fill hole everything looks sparkly and nice so I believe the engine has been well maintained and do not have any concerns about breaking free sludge going to synthetic.

Also going to set up a time to go to Honda and have the trans drain and fill done as I keep reading it needs to be Honda specific fluid only
 
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