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2001 Honda CR-V
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally bade farewell to Thunderhorse (2001, with 267,000+ miles) and bought a new-to-me 2010 CR-V EX-L. What do I need to know about the third gen CR-V? She's now just over 150,000 miles. Any big repairs I should start planning for? I can check the Carfax report and see at least some of the maintenance history, so there's that.

Thanks for any insight!
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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10,798 Posts
SEARCH the Gen3 area for similar Q.s to yours.

Do you have any other service history besides Carfax? Share watcha got.

Problem areas: Door lock actuators; A/C compressor clutches.
 

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What do I need to know about the third gen CR-V? She's now just over 150,000 miles. Any big repairs I should start planning for?
These happened in both of our 2009 CR-Vs within months of each other (similar mileage, and they were built only weeks apart):
  • AC compressor clutch coils -- plan on replacing the whole compressor if you have a dealer to it. (Better to start fresh, since the labor isn't much more to replace the entire compressor...and way cheaper than having a shop do the work a second time if the compressor fails at a later time.)
  • Struts, front and rear (mainly due to the front struts rattling).
  • Starters (one was intermittent, then died completely; the other cranked slower over time until it would barely turn over in the winter).
Lesser items:
  • Evaporative solenoid -- if you get the "check fuel cap" message, this solenoid is usually the culprit.
  • Battery.
  • Door lock actuators. They will at first "clack" loudly when locking, then when they finally let loose, you'll get a very loud ratcheting (gear) sound when locking.
  • Idler pulley for the drive belt tensioner can sqwauk or grind--it's worn out.
  • The usual suspension items like stabilizer bar links and bushings may need replacing if they are worn.
  • The usual oil leaks, like the valve cover or VTEC spool valve body (located behind the engine).
  • Spark plug coils will probably last until 180k-200k miles; they wear out, and you'll get a misfire code when that happens.
  • Brake caliper hardware can be finicky. Had the left rear seize on me during a weekend road trip due to the hardware corroding and preventing the pads from "floating" in the calipers. All brake pad replacements should be accompanied by replacing all the spring steel hardware (about $10/set, left and right), and caliper pins should be removed, cleaned, deburred (if corroding) and the lube replaced with silicone brake lube, not normal grease or anti-seize. And torque the lug nuts so the rotors don't warp.
Cost for any of these is variable, based on whether I do them myself or have a dealer's service department do them.

Danger item--if you're in the rust belt, keep a close eye on where the rear trailing arm connects to the chassis. Honda in Canada has a recall on this. If it rusts out, the vehicle is not repairable. Per the recall, Honda is buying them back if their inspection deems them to be unsafe. No US recall on this, even though there should be!
 

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2001 Honda CR-V
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the insights, y'all!

Carbuff2, Carfax is pretty much what I have. It was a one-owner vehicle, though, and bought at a local dealership (the same one I got it from). Based on what I see, I don't see that any major repairs have been done.

Danger item--if you're in the rust belt, keep a close eye on where the rear trailing arm connects to the chassis. Honda in Canada has a recall on this. If it rusts out, the vehicle is not repairable. Per the recall, Honda is buying them back if their inspection deems them to be unsafe. No US recall on this, even though there should be!
Thankfully, I'm not in the Rust Belt - I'm in south Louisiana. No worries about salt on roads because we hardly ever get snow (this past winter's southern wallop notwithstanding). I'll check up on all the other things you mentioned, though. And what does it look like when a brake caliper seizes up?! That sounds rough.
 

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2007 CRV
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AC clutch or compressor
Door lock actuators
Rust on wires at the speakers making the speakers inoperable
 

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And what does it look like when a brake caliper seizes up?! That sounds rough.
This wasn't the caliper pin seizing up, but the pad getting stuck on the corrosion on the brake hardware. About 2/3 of the way through the trip, I began hearing a humming sound from the rear, which would happen only at certain speeds and would change if I hit the brakes. When I got out, I could feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel, and there was a lot of brake dust on the wheel.

Once I took it apart back at home, I noticed one of the pads was very tight in the caliper, and that the hardware was corroded. Not rusted through, but pitted enough that the tabs on the pad wouldn't slide through it. New hardware, and a tiny dab of brake lube, made it all work like new. And of course, new pads on both sides. (I usually get Akebono pads through Rock Auto.)

Our other '09 had a rear brake pad wear out too quick, where it started to sound like it was grinding. Turns out a caliper pin was frozen since one of the boots on the caliper pins had gotten torn. This was in February, temperature in the teens, and I'm working in the driveway while snow is starting to fall as I wrap it up. The pin was too far gone to salvage, but luckily I was still able to get it out of the caliper. I bought a new pin and boot at the auto parts store nearby and got it done, but it was not the most pleasant experience! New pads there as well.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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Carfax is pretty much what I have.
In that case, you should do all the 100K mile services, including coolant, brake fluid, trans and rear diff fluids (if AWD), valve adjustments, plugs, and check engine and cabin air filters.

Get aquainted with the Maintenance Minder, see which service codes are coming up next oil change. But don't rely on that, as it can be reset without doing the maintenance....
 
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