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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, My check engine light started blinking, and my car was puttering and shaking a little bit while in idle, and there was a noticeable loss in power as I drove.

I took it to autozone to check the error codes which pointed towards cylinders 1 and 4, and issues with the fuel injector.

So I took it to a shop where they did there own diagnostic and compression test for $150.

They said there was No Compression in 1 and 4, and again repeated what autozone said about something is going on with the fuel injector.

I guess they didn’t lift the valve cover to get any real look at what was going on. I’m assuming that would have cost more $.

My car has 207,000 on it. But I’ve taken 2 Civics I’ve had to over 300,000.

He told me, without looking any further into it, that I might as well get rid of the car cause the motor is shot. That there is no use to even try and fix it. I asked him what specifically is going on with the valves and stuff. And he just flat out said, it’s done and the only thing he would recommend is replacing the engine.

My question is, aren’t there people out there that can fix or correct valve/piston/cylinder issues? Without even lifting the valve cover, I don’t know how he can just say my motor is shot.

Based on what I’ve said, and the years on my engine, do you guys think I can still get those issues fixed and resolved? I love my car and don’t want this to be the end.

Thankyou!
 

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Your profile says you have a 2001 1st Gen CR-V, which are known to have valve issues.

What were the error codes? My guess is the codes were P0301 and P0304, and possibly P1399.

Those all indicate problems with the valve clearances on the 1st Gen CR-V.

When was the last time you had the valves adjusted?
It's a once a year/every 30,000 miles task that the 1st Gen engines need to have done.

At this point without pulling the head and looking at the valves you don't know how bad the situation is.
My guess is, at a minimum, you may need to have several valves replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thankyou for that informative reply raccoon. Tomorrow when I get out to my car I’ll check out the exact codes. While I’m driving another car my Dad will have the Crv in his garage. I’ll let know about what you said, and maybe he can get in there and check those valves out.
 

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check the timing line up for the belt before tearing into the engine. I would be 100% with raccoon if it was 1 cylinder. but 2 at the same time, Timing belt skipping a few teeth is MUCH more likely

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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The first thing to check on the P1456 code is that you always tighten the gas cap after you fill up. It should click several times when you tighten it.
Also take a close look at the cap. If it has any cracks in the plastic or pieces that are chipped or broken off buy a new cap from a Honda dealer or online Honda parts site.
It may take several days of driving with a tight gas cap before that code clears.


The P0301, P0302, and P0304 are usually related to valve issues with the 1st Gen CR-Vs.

Start with having the valves adjusted to the correct specifications.
The specs call for a range of values that are "correct".
Set the exhaust valves to the looser side of the spec, i.e. the larger number in the range.

If you take it to a mechanic also have them reset the codes.
Then drive for a few days. If the P030x codes come back then you'll probably need a valve job.

I did have a couple of P030x codes show up once on my 1999 CR-V, and took it to my mechanic, who adjusted the valves.
I was lucky and the codes did not come back.

Good luck!
 

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First and foremost, adjust the valves as stated above. If there's still an issue with a misfire, a cylinder leakage test will tell you where it's leaking from and the next course of action.
 

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I know that this is an old post....but there are 2 likely candidates/causes....bad valves or bad rings.

At this point, he is taking a gues
s at it...possibly an educated guess, but still a guess.

You can do a leakdown test to find out which it is. Keep in mind, we are talking about 100 bucks an hour here.

Before I did that, i'd adjust the valves...IMHO, probably the cause. Then do the leak.down. if the rings leak....look for a used motor (500 and 500-1000 to install).

If the rings are tight and the valves leak then you have a burnt valve caused by the valves not being adjusted. This means $2-300 for headwork and $500 to get it off and then reinstall it add in a timing belt....1K, or more.
 
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