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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some help here.
I have a '98 CRV 4WD 2.0L 4 A/T. I'm in Costa Rica so it will be a Japanese version with no fancy CA emission additions.
I did a head overhaul - skimmed head/valve overhaul/camshaft alignment.
New waterpump / timing belt / valve adjustment
Put everything back together and it started first time, no problem.
Driving off, the engine vibrated as soon as load came on, so I pulled off the HT leads one by one and established that No.3 cylinder was not firing.
I switched No.3 injector with the one from No.4, and No.4 was not firing. OK the problem was with No.3's injector.
I fixed that (stuck needle) and the engine fired up OK. I pulled the HT lead from that cylinder and the revs dropped so it looked like everything was good, Just to be sure, I pulled the lead again and the engine stopped.
Now I have no spark at the plugs - any of them.
The coil checks out OK as per the resistance readings in the manual. I fitted a new distributor cap , checked all the connector plugs, Ignition fuse is ok, but still no spark.
The engine cranks over fine, battery good.
Any ideas? Is there anything in the ECU that will shut down the engine if a cylinder is not firing? Any reset I should do?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.......
 

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did u change the rotor when you did the cap? How are the pligs? Did the coil have any "hot" spots on it? Any engine lights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, I did not replace the rotor but it is in good condition - no burning, cracks,or significant wastage of the arm. The engine was running fine (apart from the missing cylinder) with no check engine light, then suddenly stopped when I played with the HT lead.
The coil also looks in very good condition and the resistances are within limits.
I suspect that messing with the HT lead may have caused a fault in the ECM and made it shut the engine down. I am going to try the reset procedure and see if that does anything.
Thanks for taking an interest! Any other suggestions will be most welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the back-up there (no pun intended!) Lizzurd. I just did the ICU checks again and they all came out OK, but I can't believe that just messing with one HT lead could damage it. It is only on the signal circuit, not the primary HT side, so it should not have been affected by what would effectively be the same as a duff spark plug or HT lead.
If I turn on the ignition, the MIL comes on for the requisite two seconds and then goes off. According to the workshop manual, that clears a whole load of possible faulty components. I think something has fell off somewhere......
 

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TheCheng
Did you ever get it figured out?
I know that if you pull off a spark plug wire and don't have it grounded while the engine is running, you can cause the ignition coil to arc and short itself out. It can still show 'good' with an ohm meter check.
I used to use the method of pulling a spark plug wire off a spark plug while the engine was running to troubleshoot a bad cylinder or spark plug, until I read about this on a Honda forum.
Even cranking an engine over to do a compression check without grounding out the spark plug wires or disconnecting the connector feeding the distributor can destroy your ignition coil.
Heck, the old cylinder type coils never had this type of problem.
Buffalo
 

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If you have a distributor, read the article in the link above.
Yes, just cranking the engine over with the dist cap off or a plug wire not grounded can short out the ignition coil.
If you need to crank the engine over with the starter (let's say to line up the rotor screw), then first remove the ignition fuse or disconnect the low voltage connector at the distributor..
Most likely his playing with a High Tension lead caused the ignition coil to short out. It shorts out, NO spark to ANY cylinder.
Even it the coil tests OK with an ohm meter, that does not mean it is OK.
Buffalo4
 

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My issue now is the distributor is not getting the signal to spark. I put a test light on one of the injector plug to see of it would pulse when I turn the engine over and it does not, just like the coil wont pulse when I put the light on the negative side of the coil and hook the test light to the positive side of my battery. From what I've read it should pulse. Any ideas?
 

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Are you sure the timing belt is good or not broken? Remove the oil filler cap and look inside with a flashlight and see if you can see any movement inside when someone else cranks the engine over.

Read the link I sent in my last post as it may help. Did you check the fuse for the ignition? Fuse #9 (15A) IGN Coil,in the interior fuse box, page 271 in the owners manual, at least for a 2000.
I doubt that will be the cause but very easy to check.

Buffalo4
 

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Yeah the belt good I just replaced it. My cams are moving, and the #9 fuse is good. I've heard of grounds being loose and causing a no spark. But i can't seem to find any information on all the ground wire locations on the motor. I guess it could be my crankshaft position sensor is bad. Or even my ecm. I really dont know at this point
 

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Replace the coil, igniter, rotor and cap, you are in there anyway, they aren't overly expensive (amazon usually stocks the items you require) so it's worth doing.
 

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I took off the lead to one of my fuel injectors to see if it would make my test light flash when I turned it over. And it just lights up but doesn't flash. That's what makes me think I'm not getting the signal for the engine to fire
 
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